With all of the talk about vises pros and cons, I decided to see if I needed a better vise than the one that came with my Grizzly 3617 V/H mill (the one that people love to trash).
I have been using it without problems and the only thing that I had to complain about was the looseness of the slide and the finish on some exterior surfaces. I tested it with a round rod high in the jaws and found that it raised up 0.008 inch (photo “Measure lift”)
I decided that if I could machine the ways accurately that I may be able to eliminate the lift of the moveable jaw when tightening.
The photos “Truing base” and ‘Truing slide” show my set-up using the horizontal spindle to machine light cuts on the upper and lower surfaces of the base and the lower surface of the slide to dimensions that provide a net fit.
While I had the vice apart, I filed some of the external surfaces to improve the finish for appearance.
I measured the lift after reassembling and there was zero lift and the slide has no play with the round rod either high or low in the jaws.
The end results are very satisfactory and the idea that it didn’t cost anything is a big plus.
Best regards, Jack
Vice improvement (couldn't ask for more)
Vice improvement (couldn't ask for more)
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seal killer
- Posts: 4696
- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 10:58 pm
- Location: Ozark Mountains
Hi Jack,
Good to hear you got it tightened up.
I also spent many hours remachining the standard bad vice castings that came with my first mill that I returned. The company asked me if I would like to keep the vice when I exchanged the mill because I had spent so much time on it, but the new mill came with a different type that was a lot better so I gave it back (someone got a better vise with their new mill)
Just like you have done, I used the horizontal spindle but I machined under the ways after I had fly cut the top of the ways and the base of the vice. I also machined the swivel base both sides in the lathe on a face plate as it was warped.
To help with the gap in the ways were they meet the fixed jaw, I machined up a 20mm steel spacer block to bring the standard jaw in so I could use parallels next to the fixed jaw.
I am glad they exchanged the mill when they did as I had planned to machine long pockets in the badly cast sliding jaw to accept brass angle gibs that would have contact the whole top (instead of just the edges) and the sides of the ways to tighten up sideways movement as well.
One other thing you can do, is to machine a little extra off the end of the sliding jaw where the gib bolts to (3rd picture) on jaw end, then put 2 easy accessible bolts in the sliding jaw gib holes closest to the fixed jaw, so after you have clamped your part you can tighten these to pull the jaw down as well.
Dave
Good to hear you got it tightened up.
I also spent many hours remachining the standard bad vice castings that came with my first mill that I returned. The company asked me if I would like to keep the vice when I exchanged the mill because I had spent so much time on it, but the new mill came with a different type that was a lot better so I gave it back (someone got a better vise with their new mill)
Just like you have done, I used the horizontal spindle but I machined under the ways after I had fly cut the top of the ways and the base of the vice. I also machined the swivel base both sides in the lathe on a face plate as it was warped.
To help with the gap in the ways were they meet the fixed jaw, I machined up a 20mm steel spacer block to bring the standard jaw in so I could use parallels next to the fixed jaw.
I am glad they exchanged the mill when they did as I had planned to machine long pockets in the badly cast sliding jaw to accept brass angle gibs that would have contact the whole top (instead of just the edges) and the sides of the ways to tighten up sideways movement as well.
One other thing you can do, is to machine a little extra off the end of the sliding jaw where the gib bolts to (3rd picture) on jaw end, then put 2 easy accessible bolts in the sliding jaw gib holes closest to the fixed jaw, so after you have clamped your part you can tighten these to pull the jaw down as well.
Dave
Davo J:
Thank you for the descriptions of your similar adventure.
I had already machined the area under the fixed jaw flat and have yet to machine the top of the ways flat so that parallels will be true. I have been thinking about bonding a filler strip under the fixed jaw to bring it even with the top of the slides.
I was able to use my new DRO to good advantage so that the slides came out with no play (slight preload) and the slide didn't have any side play to begin with. The vice has a 6-1/2" width and the ways are nice and wide for stability. I no longer envy the often named high priced vice.
It actually didn't take very much time doing the operation as the horizontal spindle proved to be very handy to make the parallel cuts.
I have added one more photo that shows a cut along the top of the slide, before the cut along the botton of the slide, to make sure it is parallel.
Best regards, Jack
Thank you for the descriptions of your similar adventure.
I had already machined the area under the fixed jaw flat and have yet to machine the top of the ways flat so that parallels will be true. I have been thinking about bonding a filler strip under the fixed jaw to bring it even with the top of the slides.
I was able to use my new DRO to good advantage so that the slides came out with no play (slight preload) and the slide didn't have any side play to begin with. The vice has a 6-1/2" width and the ways are nice and wide for stability. I no longer envy the often named high priced vice.
It actually didn't take very much time doing the operation as the horizontal spindle proved to be very handy to make the parallel cuts.
I have added one more photo that shows a cut along the top of the slide, before the cut along the botton of the slide, to make sure it is parallel.
Best regards, Jack
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Jackthedieter wrote:Davo J:
I no longer envy the often named high priced vice.
Best regards, Jack
The Kurt style are alot better design than these vices. Just keep a look out for a cheap one.
I ended up buying a new Kurt clone off ebay a while back or $180AU which is really cheap for over here as there usually around $350.
Even the new vice that came with my mill is no comparison to this one, with it's pull down feature.
I sure once you have had the chance to use one, you would also agree.
Dave
Davo J:
As I see it, the hold down feature on some vices is required to make up for the fact that the screw is below the jaws, whereas my vice has the screw in line with the jaw which I consider a superior location.
I want to buy some other stuff like angle plates, wigglers/edge finders, etc. and won't worry about the vice unless it doesn't do what I expect it to.
Best regards, Jack
Edit 3-10-2010 Correct spelling
As I see it, the hold down feature on some vices is required to make up for the fact that the screw is below the jaws, whereas my vice has the screw in line with the jaw which I consider a superior location.
I want to buy some other stuff like angle plates, wigglers/edge finders, etc. and won't worry about the vice unless it doesn't do what I expect it to.
Best regards, Jack
Edit 3-10-2010 Correct spelling