The Home Machinist!

Big Dave,

I went back and read your message again also and now it is clear what you said. Since I'm using flux core wire there is a lot of splatter between the beads but I'll just clean them up the best I can and see what happens.
By the way, I don't think the welding is getting old. I just have a problem with depositing beads endlessly on a piece of sheet metal. I'd rather weld coupons or some actual project. Any way, I do understand the need for practice.

Ed

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Vectrax 14x40 lathe, Enco RF-45 clone mill, MillerMatic 180 MIG.

Ed,

I was talking with my father (a man who as forgotten more than I will ever know about welding) about the issue of blowing through and he gave some ideas.
Get a set of copper welding backers you can get them from eastwood part number 22993. It can support the metal and the copper dissipates the heat but the metal does not stick to the copper strip.

Hope that helps,

Charles

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The best times were behind one of Al's engines

On some work copper backers can be a boon to getting a good weld on sheet. Or to back up a space/gap between two heavier pieces, that need joined.

Another trick is a weldoff coupon, placed at the end of a weld, so you can run the bead right off the sheet edge, and on to the tab there. This keeps from leaving a blast divot when you run past the edge. It is simply snapped off with plyers, (read vice grip, that held the tab in the first place.) a swipe with a 4" grinder for finish, and your are good to go.

Keep at it.

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Big Dave

Be Alert! The world needs more Lerts.

Big Dave,

Now that's a good tip! I was just contemplating that dilemma the other day. Once I go to weld up the square tubing how was I going to prevent the dreaded divot at the corners? Thanks for the suggestion.

Ed

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Vectrax 14x40 lathe, Enco RF-45 clone mill, MillerMatic 180 MIG.

Charles,

I took a look at those copper backers and they look like they would be handy when butt welding but don't look so useful for the square tubing I need to weld up. I'll keep them in mind if I have a need to do lots of butt welds on sheet stock.

Ed

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Vectrax 14x40 lathe, Enco RF-45 clone mill, MillerMatic 180 MIG.

When it comes to welding up , say a cube, in square tubing, you will have all kinds of fun keeping square. This is where those magnetic arrow point looking things really can help. Besides a dozen C-clamps and a few pipe based bar clamps for woodworking, the magnets are fast and simple.

First importance is prep, sqare ends that fit with minimal gap, without rust, paint , or oil. And every thing set up square to start with. Measure twice, weld once.
When ever you weld a side on the tubing, its gonna pull. You can help yourself by tying the tubes together, with dot spot welds, while the pieces are clamped to anything substantial, even a sheet of plywood to resist free movement. If you catch it while just tacked, you can use a parting disc in a 4" grinder, and get things right again, and retack.

When you start doing final passes, you may notice a small diference where the corners of the tubes come together, as the heat seems to bleed off a little there. Welding around the corners, is for me the hardest part to get right, and I got a two handed death grip on the Mig Gun, to keep my speed and distance, while changing angles. While welding flat is the norm, and easiest to start with, a Mig is quickly adaptable to all position. So, as you move along, practice by making a hangmans platform. A couple of odds and ends, and make a gallows that has a piece of chain or hook from the simple stick, like and upside down 'L'. Full weld everything there. Do all the positions, you will be better for it.

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Big Dave

Be Alert! The world needs more Lerts.

Big Dave,

That's why I changed my lathe bench design from the first image to the second one which is more of a pedestal design. I figured it would be a whole lot easier to work with the shorter lengths of tubing to keep them square. The two pedestals will be bolted together with some steel running in between them.

Ed

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Vectrax 14x40 lathe, Enco RF-45 clone mill, MillerMatic 180 MIG.

I think we touched on that. The longest chord on top could get humpy from all the welds underneath, depending on how its welding order is.

Anytime you put a bead on steel you heat and distort that one small area. It will have a tendancy to shrink. It doesnt matter the size or weight , just understand it will move on you. Take a 2 ft piece of tubing, and make a dozen small welds across one side of the tubing, then take a sight down it. You may be surprised at the amout it moved.

A favorite trick of mine, working on big machinery, uses a mig. A failed bearing, that may have galled its bore, is stuck, and refuses to be extracted by normal means of slap hammer or screw puller. Wipe the grease off, and run a bead of weld INSIDE the race stuck in the bore. When it cools, it will shrink and fall out. This little trick has saved many a gray hair for me.

Many of the Go-rillas I worked with would risk torching the race, and could blow holes in a finely machined bore, a no-no that could ork the job up.

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Big Dave

Be Alert! The world needs more Lerts.

Hello EdK,

I ran across this sight with some good photo's with explanations from a guy teaching himself
to weld with mig. Once on the site page start scrolling down.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Readywelder/

Ken.

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One must remember.
The best learning experiences come from
working with the older Masters.
Ken.

Hi Ken,

Thanks for that link. It was very interesting.

Ed

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Vectrax 14x40 lathe, Enco RF-45 clone mill, MillerMatic 180 MIG.

(Snicker) . . . Welcome to the , uhh, club!

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Big Dave

Be Alert! The world needs more Lerts.

Big Dave,

Thanks, I feel like part of the family now.

Ed

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Vectrax 14x40 lathe, Enco RF-45 clone mill, MillerMatic 180 MIG.