Rebuilding a 5C Spin Indexer
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Rebuilding a 5C Spin Indexer
The imported spin indexers really have a fine cast iron base and spindle. Over the years I have made improvements to my spin indexer to make it work better.
First, they must have 1/16 clearance between the spindle and drawbar. The threads on the collet have the job of centering the drawbar. I made a sleeve bearing that is pressed into the spindle the keeps the drawbar centered. The sleeve is Nothing fance and probably has .005 or .010 clearance on the drawbar. Much better than it was. The sleeve bearing could be made of a number of materials. Aluminum, steel, plastic.
Next, get rid of all the setscrews. The black ring between the drawbar and the cast iron base needs to go altogether. The black ring has one or two setcrews that is intended to take out the endplay of the spindle. They work okay until the 5C collet is loosened. But when the drawbar is tapped to loosen the collet the retaining ring moves so now there is endplay in the spindle again.
The crank on the drawbar is held in place with setscrews. I took some experimentation but I found a point where the drawbar tightens the collet. The drawbar crank is pulling against the spindle and the collet. Take the setscrews holes and drill and tap the setscrew hole through the drawbar so the drawbar crank can never move again unless the setscrews are removed. The setscrews double up as pins.
The indexing plate is held in place with a threaded ring. Remember it is possible for the indexing plate to move. Always use the little pin with the knurled head to lock the spindle through the bushing on top of the indexer so the collet can be tightened or loosened. Lock the spindle with the cast iron base.
Finally, we still need to address the spindle endplay. I made a brass sleeve for the outside of the spin indexer spindle. I drilled through the sleeve and the spindle in two places and pinned the two together with rollpins.
Next I threaded the sleeve. I do not recall the OD but the pitch was 32 TPI. I machined the threads on my lathe and checked them for depth with thread wires. Then I took two steel rings and knurled the outside and threaded the inside to mate with the threads on the brass sleeve. One threaded ring adjusts the endplay on the spindle and the second ring locks the first ring in place
The spin indexer is now dependable and a pleasure to use.
Hope this was of interest,
Jim
First, they must have 1/16 clearance between the spindle and drawbar. The threads on the collet have the job of centering the drawbar. I made a sleeve bearing that is pressed into the spindle the keeps the drawbar centered. The sleeve is Nothing fance and probably has .005 or .010 clearance on the drawbar. Much better than it was. The sleeve bearing could be made of a number of materials. Aluminum, steel, plastic.
Next, get rid of all the setscrews. The black ring between the drawbar and the cast iron base needs to go altogether. The black ring has one or two setcrews that is intended to take out the endplay of the spindle. They work okay until the 5C collet is loosened. But when the drawbar is tapped to loosen the collet the retaining ring moves so now there is endplay in the spindle again.
The crank on the drawbar is held in place with setscrews. I took some experimentation but I found a point where the drawbar tightens the collet. The drawbar crank is pulling against the spindle and the collet. Take the setscrews holes and drill and tap the setscrew hole through the drawbar so the drawbar crank can never move again unless the setscrews are removed. The setscrews double up as pins.
The indexing plate is held in place with a threaded ring. Remember it is possible for the indexing plate to move. Always use the little pin with the knurled head to lock the spindle through the bushing on top of the indexer so the collet can be tightened or loosened. Lock the spindle with the cast iron base.
Finally, we still need to address the spindle endplay. I made a brass sleeve for the outside of the spin indexer spindle. I drilled through the sleeve and the spindle in two places and pinned the two together with rollpins.
Next I threaded the sleeve. I do not recall the OD but the pitch was 32 TPI. I machined the threads on my lathe and checked them for depth with thread wires. Then I took two steel rings and knurled the outside and threaded the inside to mate with the threads on the brass sleeve. One threaded ring adjusts the endplay on the spindle and the second ring locks the first ring in place
The spin indexer is now dependable and a pleasure to use.
Hope this was of interest,
Jim
Last edited by JimGlass on Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:20 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Tool & Die Maker/Electrician, Retired 2007
So much to learn and so little time.
www.outbackmachineshop.com
So much to learn and so little time.
www.outbackmachineshop.com
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Re: Rebuilding a 5C Spin Indexer
Thanks for all the great upgrade tips
Re: Rebuilding a 5C Spin Indexer
Jim,
Thanks for the great rebuild tutor and visual aid's..
This was also a GREAT READ.
Ken.
Thanks for the great rebuild tutor and visual aid's..
This was also a GREAT READ.
Ken.
One must remember.
The best learning experiences come
from working with the older Masters.
Ken.
The best learning experiences come
from working with the older Masters.
Ken.
Re: Rebuilding a 5C Spin Indexer
Jim,
Thanks for this thread. I have used my indexer once or twice with success but after this I can see I have some work to do.
Jack.
Thanks for this thread. I have used my indexer once or twice with success but after this I can see I have some work to do.
Jack.
Re: Rebuilding a 5C Spin Indexer
Nice re-engineering job - the Chinese government should put you on retainer, LOL ! All of your other posts and suggestions are also much appreciated.
Cheers,
Randy C
Cheers,
Randy C
Re: Rebuilding a 5C Spin Indexer
Hi; Jim nice job ,It is strange to me how a lot of people on the other side of the country and years apart come up with almost the same thing .although you did a lot nicer job than I . I tack welded the index plate to the spindle and made a four spoke sleeve to tighten the collet. I also reversed the index plate on an old one so I could use it upright. Man I love this board index. I wish I could post pictures but I still don't get it.
chazc
chazc
Re: Rebuilding a 5C Spin Indexer
It's dead easy, chazc.chazc wrote:I wish I could post pictures but I still don't get it.
Give this a go:
As if you intend to reply to this post, click on the reply button. That will take you to the page that allows you to compose your reply, which is the same page you'd use for a post. Below the box in which you enter the text for the post, below the rather deep blue line, do you see a little box (a button) , to the left of center, that says Browse? If you do, click that button. That allows you to go to the place in your computer where your pics are stored. Go there and select the picture you'd like to post. Follow instructions on the screen and it's a done deal. It takes only seconds.
Need more help?
Just ask. Most of these guys will be happy to lend a hand.
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
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Re: Rebuilding a 5C Spin Indexer
Chazc:
A second option.
Often I post pics that are stored at Photobucket.com. Photobucket is free and a wonderful service. You open an account and start uploading your pictures. Eventurally you start having separate photo albums where pictures can be store by topic.
If you want to post a pic in your post I go to photobuck (saved in my favorites). Place your mouse cursor on the pic you wish to post then move down to where it says IMG CODE. When IMG CODE is highlighted in blue go to EDIT and COPY.
When you are typing your post and you want to include the picture just go to
EDIT then PASTE and the IMG CODE will appear. You will not actually see the picture until you either preview or submit your post. You can post more than one picture this way. Once the pics are stored at photobucket it is easy and fast to include pics in your posts. Part of the reason I almost always include a pic in my posts.
Below is the picture I selected at Photobucket.com
If I'm using my digital camera software and I'm saving a digital picture for photobuck I always save with "best for web" size. This is usually a nice size yet not to large and all my pictures are the same size.
If you don't understand this just ask.
Jim
A second option.
Often I post pics that are stored at Photobucket.com. Photobucket is free and a wonderful service. You open an account and start uploading your pictures. Eventurally you start having separate photo albums where pictures can be store by topic.
If you want to post a pic in your post I go to photobuck (saved in my favorites). Place your mouse cursor on the pic you wish to post then move down to where it says IMG CODE. When IMG CODE is highlighted in blue go to EDIT and COPY.
When you are typing your post and you want to include the picture just go to
EDIT then PASTE and the IMG CODE will appear. You will not actually see the picture until you either preview or submit your post. You can post more than one picture this way. Once the pics are stored at photobucket it is easy and fast to include pics in your posts. Part of the reason I almost always include a pic in my posts.
Below is the picture I selected at Photobucket.com
If I'm using my digital camera software and I'm saving a digital picture for photobuck I always save with "best for web" size. This is usually a nice size yet not to large and all my pictures are the same size.
If you don't understand this just ask.
Jim
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Last edited by JimGlass on Wed Nov 10, 2010 7:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
Tool & Die Maker/Electrician, Retired 2007
So much to learn and so little time.
www.outbackmachineshop.com
So much to learn and so little time.
www.outbackmachineshop.com
Re: Rebuilding a 5C Spin Indexer
Hi chazc,
I just thought of something..
How big are your pictures??
What type are they?? .jpg or .bmp .gif or ???
Ken.
I just thought of something..
How big are your pictures??
What type are they?? .jpg or .bmp .gif or ???
Ken.
One must remember.
The best learning experiences come
from working with the older Masters.
Ken.
The best learning experiences come
from working with the older Masters.
Ken.
Re: Rebuilding a 5C Spin Indexer
I like your mod to remove the end play on the spindle, I would also like to shorten the spindle some day but when its cut its gone and I lose the flexability to move the spindle out. Shortening the spindle would allow me to use the indexer in the vertical position without loosong too much height.
I also made this mod to my spinner for grinding pins on my surface grinder, works great, I dont grind many pins or shafts so I am not too worried about the kack of bearings in the spindle.
I also made this mod to my spinner for grinding pins on my surface grinder, works great, I dont grind many pins or shafts so I am not too worried about the kack of bearings in the spindle.
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Re: Rebuilding a 5C Spin Indexer
JimGlass , a good post . Used some of your mods on mine the first time it came out . The short comings that you addressed made the indexer more user friendly . I use mine a lot , actually more than I thought . The indexer on the mill and the hex and square block 5-C adapter for the lathe are some pretty handy tools for low budget use . You can do a lot of things with them , as someone said use your imagination . Since I got a real rotab I still have the spin indexer to do the quick and easy jobs and it sure is simple to set up .
The more I learn , The more I don't know !
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Re: Rebuilding a 5C Spin Indexer
Fourjc: I'll be that works very well. The indexer fit between the cast iron base and the spindle is pretty amazing. Keep it oiled up and it will last for a long time.
My cylindrical grinding attachment that I made. It can also be used for indexing. It is a Harig knockoff.
For grinding angle and tapers;
If anyone tries building one of these it is best to use ballbearings for this purpose $$. I used inexpensive bearings. I can detect the cheap bearings in the grind finish. Not exactly like the real Harig but close.
Mini cylindrical grinder. Uses a DA-200 collet chuck for a spindle.
Jim
My cylindrical grinding attachment that I made. It can also be used for indexing. It is a Harig knockoff.
For grinding angle and tapers;
If anyone tries building one of these it is best to use ballbearings for this purpose $$. I used inexpensive bearings. I can detect the cheap bearings in the grind finish. Not exactly like the real Harig but close.
Mini cylindrical grinder. Uses a DA-200 collet chuck for a spindle.
Jim
Tool & Die Maker/Electrician, Retired 2007
So much to learn and so little time.
www.outbackmachineshop.com
So much to learn and so little time.
www.outbackmachineshop.com