Beginners LE 4-4-0 American

[Pipescs]

One of the deversions this week was the purchase of a 1973 Southbend 14X40 Gear Head Lathe from a local Blacksmith. We are planning to drag it home this next week where it will become a clean up and service project.

It has been setting in the back of his shop for many years so the plan is to Clean, Paint and service it prior to putting it to use. All seems to bee in working order and it has a little surface rust. I will post photos when we get it in the basement.

[steamin10]

Wo-HO! Nice score! That size machine is bigger than most hobbiests would get, and a little awkward for really small parts. But when it comes to shafts and large drivers, it is powerful and stable for good working abilities. Old lathe hands will use a second chuck in the large chuck, to get away from the head and any bed wear, and give a bit more hand room around small work. On small items where you dont bull material off, it is a nice compomise.

Cant wait to see the old girl in new makup.

[Pipescs]

Plans are to keep the Taig and Old Logan I have for the small work. The Southbend was 700.00 complete with delivery.

Of course I have to go ahead with plans for a three phase converter for it.

[steamin10]

Um, look around on Craigs list locally for a low speed 1750 3-5 HP 220 single phase motor. They may be common enough to pick one up without damaging your wallet. With a threaded spindle, you dont want instant reverse, or reverse running, anyway.

[Pipescs]

You have come up with a solution I had not considered.

I was planning on keeping the original three phase motor and variable pully system speed control and just putting together a three phase converter with a three hp, three phase idler motor.

[Fender]

The rotary phase converter may be easier and cheaper to do if you can get the idler motor inexpensively. Just add a start capacitor and switch and you're in business. I bought a 7.5 hp 3ph motor for just 50 bucks. Large single phase motors can get pricey.

[Pipescs]

Found this out on the Net.

http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/phase ... -phase.pdf


Any input on it would be greatly appreciated. My background is in electrical but I do not have any experiance in converters.

No problem with building it but have questions on ballancing capacitors across the L1-L2 and L2-L3.

Off to town to chase an Idler motor at various shops. I see them on Ebay but do not wish to pay shipping if I can find something local

[LVRR2095]

Have you thought about a VFD?

[steamin10]

Ya, I know all the arguements. I have a Static that runs 3 machines, not at the same time. Small 3 PH motors are as cheap as dirt, dont let anybody swaddle you diferent. There are choices for sure, and VFD's fit very well in some places. It is all covered well in other threads about 3PH running.

Single phase is dead easy without a lot of doodling, thats why I keep it first choice.

Starting a motor to eat power to run another motor, and risk stalling the generating motor on a heavy lathe cut.. Nawww. Kiss rule, I follow my trail. VFD's are cool, dont have one yet.

It is all about how weird you want to get to save a few $, and operate 3 PH around a home shop. Its not about saving money, its about how you spend it, for the bells and whistles you recieve. A commercial shop should have 3 PH hands down, or the power bill will kill ya.

I push a button and my 3 PH toy mill is ready for action, period. My SB9 is 110, 1PH, drum switch, forward only. Dont need to unscrew the chuck, trying to cut in reverse.

I am happy with my decisions, otherwise , I would change them. Be happy with your decisions. Enjoy.

[steamin10]

Motors: dont use a fan duty to run a lathe, cheap ones 2-3 HP are around $130. Heavy duty motors of 1750 speeds 3-5 hp compressor duty, (heavy load) are gonna run $250 +. I buy yard sale and flea market, when they are there for $30-75 or walk away. I am out right now, so I may have to raise my buy level. Dayton, Baldor prefered. (GE?) Wattco, Volt and other european junk should be leavitright.

[Pipescs]

Managed to get all the leading truck bearing journals bored and bushed up. Have half of them notched out to fit the frame sides. I have used the TAIG mill for everything exept the boring of the holes to make the journals.

I purchased the "Spring Equalizer Bars" from LE for six dollars a piece. They came in rusty but were the best twentyfour dollars I have spent as they would be a pain to lay out and cut with the equipment I have. They are Laser cut I believe.

[Pipescs]

As I am nearing the need for wheels can I get guidance on either buying or making a form tool to do the wheel flanges?