Beginners LE 4-4-0 American

[kvom]

I'd be happy to lend you mine for the cost of mailing it there and back.

[Pipescs]

Thanks for the offer but with 16 wheels to do on this engine plus any wheels needed for cars (Plans for one boxcara flat car, and a bobber caboose) I figure I better find a way for me to be able to do this.

Can you post photos of yours?

[Pipescs]

After finishing up the journal boxes I have turned to machining out the side frames for them so slide into.

I have also decided this would be a good time to start painting all the steel parts for the front truck.

The side frames are being milled out on the TAIG

I ended up putting the set screw for the bushings off to one side to clear the bottom strap. I made the first ones hex head but think I will go back and make them round screw heads.

The equalizer bars will be black after sanding all the rust off.

[Dick_Morris]

form tool to do the wheel flanges

I'll offer an alternative. I'm not a fan of the form tools for my own use. Since it's not really steam, I posted some notes on the Riding Rails section of Chaski on a run of 32 wheels I machined a year or two ago. http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/vie ... 28#p204028

[Pipescs]

Thanks for the input on the wheels Dick.

This is exactly what I need as far as guidance. I can see where this will work for me much better than trying to make a special form tool.

I did not get anything in the shop done today as today was the day we dug what I have affectionetly named "The Beast" out of its resting place in the back of a blacksmith shop over in Piny Chapel Alabama. I should mention all my tools are old and most I have found like this and rebuilt them. My Logan for instance is a 1947 model.

We drug it up on a trailer with a wonder we did not kill one of us. Luckily it came off the trailer into the basement easier than it went on.

My initial thought was the brown areas were rust but it turns out it is caked on dirt and grease. Some surface rust but not as bad as I thought. Everything seems to work with a broken gearshift lever that I will need to remake

Plans are to start by cleaning, painting and lubricating the chuck, tailstock, Apron and saddle. Then clean and paint the Bed and stand prior to putting everything back in place. I managed to find a factory manual that has all the service bulletins and lubrication oil reqirements

The spindle is a D 1-6 type with the speed control being a variable pully belt drive to the gearbox.

[Pipescs]

One of the Items I was chasing was a there phase motor for an idler on the three phase power converter I will need. The blacksmith threw in this monster 7hp motor he had planned to use on another project.

This is the lead screw after I wiped it down with kerosene and a brass brush.

[Pipescs]

Before you guys beat me up too bad for draging this Beast home with all the work it will take.

I only have $700.00 in it.

[Pipescs]

Dick

I see what you mean about the production setup that Dave is using. But like you I also see were I can set up my lathes with individual tools to do my small run.

I am thinking I need to do all the wheels for the locomotive and tender and get them over while I have the lathes set up. I have the blanks for the four lead, eight tender and four drivers in house now.

[Pipescs]

My workis taking me on the road again so I spent a little time putting all the parts to the truck together. I am going to start on the spring assemblies when I get home.

The Southbend Project is off to a start having been tore down for clean up. A few problems so far but nothing we can't fix in house.

Boy its Dirty My son spent an hour cleaning the chuck.