Santa Fe reefer
Moderator: Harold_V
- makinsmoke
- Posts: 2260
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:56 pm
- Location: Texas Hill Country
Re: Santa Fe reefer
Hi Kevin,
I have tried that technique but it was a long time ago.
I apply the lettering paint the way the big guys did it in the old days. With a "stencil" brush.
The bleed under I experience is due to the irregular surface of the grooves between the individual boards. Where there is a decent, flat surface I have no problems.
The only thing I spray is the coat(s) of satin spar urethane I use to seal and protect the top coat.
It is somewhat easier the larger the project is.... Once the stencil work is done, remove and fill in. Note the chalk line to keep the lettering centered. I have old photos showing this is how the shop boys did it. More work, just seemed right to do it this way. No spar urethane for this Old Girl. The Rustoleum Silver will be there for a while. Brian
I have tried that technique but it was a long time ago.
I apply the lettering paint the way the big guys did it in the old days. With a "stencil" brush.
The bleed under I experience is due to the irregular surface of the grooves between the individual boards. Where there is a decent, flat surface I have no problems.
The only thing I spray is the coat(s) of satin spar urethane I use to seal and protect the top coat.
It is somewhat easier the larger the project is.... Once the stencil work is done, remove and fill in. Note the chalk line to keep the lettering centered. I have old photos showing this is how the shop boys did it. More work, just seemed right to do it this way. No spar urethane for this Old Girl. The Rustoleum Silver will be there for a while. Brian
- Dick_Morris
- Posts: 2841
- Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 2:09 pm
- Location: Anchorage, AK
Re: Santa Fe reefer
That's exactly the way we lettered S-160 Consolidation ARR 556 about 20 years ago. When they repainted it the city was told to leave it black and the Alaska Live Steamers would take care of the lettering.It is somewhat easier the larger the project is....
Re: Santa Fe reefer
Brian, I like all the detail you've added to the car. The ice hatches look very nice. It's all the little things that add up to make a very nice model that most people see, and know looks nice, but don't really know why. Keep up the good work.
Vic
Vic
For Duty and Humanity
- makinsmoke
- Posts: 2260
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:56 pm
- Location: Texas Hill Country
Re: Santa Fe reefer
Thank you for the kind words.
I remember every now and then how much time I spend looking at others' projects, and how much I learn from them, and realize I am missing an opportunity to "pay back". All it takes is a click or two of the cell phone...
Brian
I remember every now and then how much time I spend looking at others' projects, and how much I learn from them, and realize I am missing an opportunity to "pay back". All it takes is a click or two of the cell phone...
Brian
- makinsmoke
- Posts: 2260
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:56 pm
- Location: Texas Hill Country
Re: Santa Fe reefer
Well,
Stuff just gets in the way. Planned on finishing the touch up of the cross and circle logos this evening but had company drop by. One side logo is done, but had to take a photo in the dark.
Had some bleed under and rough edges due to the V-groove planking. Touched up the white and then the black with a small pointed brush. The yellow-orange is a PPG latex from Lowe's called Pumpkin. The black is Testors acrylic and the white is a latex gloss house paint.
Brian
Stuff just gets in the way. Planned on finishing the touch up of the cross and circle logos this evening but had company drop by. One side logo is done, but had to take a photo in the dark.
Had some bleed under and rough edges due to the V-groove planking. Touched up the white and then the black with a small pointed brush. The yellow-orange is a PPG latex from Lowe's called Pumpkin. The black is Testors acrylic and the white is a latex gloss house paint.
Brian
Re: Santa Fe reefer
That's really pretty, Brian.
Harold
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
- makinsmoke
- Posts: 2260
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:56 pm
- Location: Texas Hill Country
Re: Santa Fe reefer
Thank you Harold.
I always like the part where you letter and name or number your projects.
It's kind of like naming a baby at the hospital.
One big event has now been accomplished, but a new project (in our cases running and enjoying) has just begun!
It really seems to give it life.
Brian
I always like the part where you letter and name or number your projects.
It's kind of like naming a baby at the hospital.
One big event has now been accomplished, but a new project (in our cases running and enjoying) has just begun!
It really seems to give it life.
Brian
Re: Santa Fe reefer
Brian...the Santa Fe logo looks top notch. What did you do on the other side of the reefer door? El Capitan? Superchief? ATSF system map? Other? You made a comment earlier about "bleed thru/under" because the masks don't cover the beveled edges between planks. I wouldn't really worry about that. In fact, I'd say that's more prototypical. You don't think the painters doing the real cars went to such lengths, do you? When you stand back 10-15 feet, you probably won't notice that it on your car.
And if someone does comment...just tell'em that was the prototype practice. We go to great lengths to recreate a model RR car in 1.5" scale. The railroads needed rolling stock as cheap as possible to move commodities and generate revenue. As such, paying attention to such details as paint mask bleed under was not a high priority for them. Remember...there's a higher cost for attention to detail...and masking. Time is money. It all adds up. I'm pretty sure that same ideal sticks today. Besides, the customer can have whatever he wants...but it all comes with a price.
You did good! How many more are you going to make? A string of those would be something to see...in any scale. Keep up the good work. Carl B.
And if someone does comment...just tell'em that was the prototype practice. We go to great lengths to recreate a model RR car in 1.5" scale. The railroads needed rolling stock as cheap as possible to move commodities and generate revenue. As such, paying attention to such details as paint mask bleed under was not a high priority for them. Remember...there's a higher cost for attention to detail...and masking. Time is money. It all adds up. I'm pretty sure that same ideal sticks today. Besides, the customer can have whatever he wants...but it all comes with a price.
You did good! How many more are you going to make? A string of those would be something to see...in any scale. Keep up the good work. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
- makinsmoke
- Posts: 2260
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:56 pm
- Location: Texas Hill Country
Re: Santa Fe reefer
Hello Carl,
Thank you for the kind words.
The bleed under is caused by my over scale beveled edges of the "v-groove" siding. I cut individual boards and beveled them on the table saw. Wish I had that Dremel table saw I have been intending on buying for years.
The aluminum side cars I've seen have a very shallow and probably a lot closer to scale v-groove so folks using decals or stencils won't have near the problem I have had. The grooves are so deep that there is no white paint in the circle portion after stencilling, That is why I go back with a touch up brush.
This is an early USRA type Santa Fe wood reefer. The maps on one side and train names on the other did not come into use until the 1940's, and this car is dated sometime after building in the 20's, so no train name or map.
A string? Yes, it would look great. However, this is a working ice refrigerator car, albeit without working hatches and side doors. The interior is insulated and sealed, and when I complete the perforated boxes to hold the ice and the floor racks should function like the prototype. I hope. A string would not necessarily need the functionality, mainly the looks, so many corners could be cut as long as they looked right. A router or other device to properly groove the sides would make quick work of one of the real time consuming parts of this project, namely, constructing the car body, then laminating individual boards to it, which is what I've done.
Love to see a string, and be able to claim they are mine, but I'm not sure I have that much time left without serious re-engineering!
Take care,
Brian
Thank you for the kind words.
The bleed under is caused by my over scale beveled edges of the "v-groove" siding. I cut individual boards and beveled them on the table saw. Wish I had that Dremel table saw I have been intending on buying for years.
The aluminum side cars I've seen have a very shallow and probably a lot closer to scale v-groove so folks using decals or stencils won't have near the problem I have had. The grooves are so deep that there is no white paint in the circle portion after stencilling, That is why I go back with a touch up brush.
This is an early USRA type Santa Fe wood reefer. The maps on one side and train names on the other did not come into use until the 1940's, and this car is dated sometime after building in the 20's, so no train name or map.
A string? Yes, it would look great. However, this is a working ice refrigerator car, albeit without working hatches and side doors. The interior is insulated and sealed, and when I complete the perforated boxes to hold the ice and the floor racks should function like the prototype. I hope. A string would not necessarily need the functionality, mainly the looks, so many corners could be cut as long as they looked right. A router or other device to properly groove the sides would make quick work of one of the real time consuming parts of this project, namely, constructing the car body, then laminating individual boards to it, which is what I've done.
Love to see a string, and be able to claim they are mine, but I'm not sure I have that much time left without serious re-engineering!
Take care,
Brian
Re: Santa Fe reefer
...and can I ask...what did you do to prevent water damage as the ice melts in your "ice bunkers"? Carl B.makinsmoke wrote:Hello Carl,
The interior is insulated and sealed, and when I complete the perforated boxes to hold the ice and the floor racks should function like the prototype.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
- makinsmoke
- Posts: 2260
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:56 pm
- Location: Texas Hill Country
Re: Santa Fe reefer
Hi Carl,
I plan on making galvanized or stainless drip pans that the screened boxes will sit in, with drains through the floor.
Otherwise everything in the cold areas is also polyurethaned.
Brian
I plan on making galvanized or stainless drip pans that the screened boxes will sit in, with drains through the floor.
Otherwise everything in the cold areas is also polyurethaned.
Brian
- makinsmoke
- Posts: 2260
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:56 pm
- Location: Texas Hill Country
Re: Santa Fe reefer
Howdy,
Thought I'd throw in a few pics of the stencilling process using Connie Miracle's products.
She has quite a library of images already, but if you send hew what she want she can size it to whatever scale and custom cut them in either paint mask(stencil)or press on decals. Specify the engine or car number and she cuts them as well.
1st pic - is the product right out of the box. Turn it over and rub the back with an embossing tool ( I used the end of a small paintbrush). This tacks the mask to the front carrier sheet. 2nd pic - you pull off the backing and make sure nothingelse comes off. You may have to stick the blue mask back to the carrier in spots. 3rd pic - line up your mask where it needs to go then press it on. 4th pic - pull off the front carrier - this is where you may have to pres the mask onto the car in spots of you did not get a good bond by embossing the back. Not a problem just watch for it. 5th pic - Stuck on waiting for paint...wait, one more step! 6th pic - Take the backing and lay it mask side onto the mask and emboss or press down and try and get the thing into the grooves and other non-flat areas. 7th pic - Here I'm using again the end of a paint brush. I also used my fingernail at times. 8th pic - Now, get the paint out (I am using latex) get paint in the brush, then wipe off the loose stuff, You don't want much on there at all. Now, dab it repeatedly onto a piece of napkin or other absorbent, and get the paint on the brush down to where it is nearly dry. You don't want wet, runny paint. The brush needs to be a little stiff, with a lot of bristles, because you will only be using the very end. More to come..
Thought I'd throw in a few pics of the stencilling process using Connie Miracle's products.
She has quite a library of images already, but if you send hew what she want she can size it to whatever scale and custom cut them in either paint mask(stencil)or press on decals. Specify the engine or car number and she cuts them as well.
1st pic - is the product right out of the box. Turn it over and rub the back with an embossing tool ( I used the end of a small paintbrush). This tacks the mask to the front carrier sheet. 2nd pic - you pull off the backing and make sure nothingelse comes off. You may have to stick the blue mask back to the carrier in spots. 3rd pic - line up your mask where it needs to go then press it on. 4th pic - pull off the front carrier - this is where you may have to pres the mask onto the car in spots of you did not get a good bond by embossing the back. Not a problem just watch for it. 5th pic - Stuck on waiting for paint...wait, one more step! 6th pic - Take the backing and lay it mask side onto the mask and emboss or press down and try and get the thing into the grooves and other non-flat areas. 7th pic - Here I'm using again the end of a paint brush. I also used my fingernail at times. 8th pic - Now, get the paint out (I am using latex) get paint in the brush, then wipe off the loose stuff, You don't want much on there at all. Now, dab it repeatedly onto a piece of napkin or other absorbent, and get the paint on the brush down to where it is nearly dry. You don't want wet, runny paint. The brush needs to be a little stiff, with a lot of bristles, because you will only be using the very end. More to come..