The Home Machinist!

You should have asked sooner...

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Glenn

Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!

Believe me, I understand. It's much like the fierce streak of pride I have in being able to operate machine tools properly with the screws, without a DRO.

Harold

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Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

That is some astonishing work. I'd really like to see a video of one of those custom reels being machined by hand. If you'd not posted the rough part, I'd think it was a cast, no way that can be made by hand, not by me anyway.

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Standards are so important that everyone must have their own...
Logan 10x24 Lathe, RF-30 Mill, 20 Ton Press
Disclaimer: I'm just a guy with a few machines...

Just WOW.....

Beautiful work! Very impressive!

Sorry....I'm not a purist.... I own automatic reels.....



Bill

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Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.

Yes a bigger mill would give you a better finish. I would get a Bridgeport type clone mill for what you are doing with a 9" X42" table with the variable speed head. I wouldn't get one of those half size clone knee mills, because the spindle travel is about half of what you have with the mill/drill. Assuming you have the larger mill/drill with 5" spindle travel. I have used both the Jet and Enco mills and found them to be a nice machine even in machine shops. So if you are on a tight budget then they may be an option for you. I had a Jet that I bought new and sold it before I moved. I should have never sold it. I wouldn't get a mill with the long table since you are doing small parts. Even in shops the mills with the long table you will find the vise set near one end to more easily reach the handle to move the table.

If you decide on a step head mill? I would look for one of the 16 speed models that has the two speed motor. Since that will mean less time changing the belt. The bad is that the two speed motor is 2 HP in high speed, but 1 HP in low speed. This usually isn't a problem unless you are doing some real heavy hogging with it. Which I don't see you doing from the pictures you have shown.

Richard W.

Thanks Richard, good advice. I was thinking of a short table but not for the reason you mention. Never thought of that actually. Now I'll be thinking about it when I make my purchase. Basically the only thing that will govern the purchase is the size of machine I can fit in my shop. I'm not afraid to spend money

I would get the variable speed head then. Once you get your new mill you will wonder how you put up with the mill/drill for so long. There are many good mills out there so take your time and go look at a few of them.

Richard W.

In looking at the first picture, I have to ask are you using any coolant, lube, or air to keep the chips out of the process. I am no master here but it looks to me as if your welding cuttings back onto the cut.

lg
no neat sig line

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I am unique, just like everyone else.

Hi Larry,

I use the water base coolant but only spritz it through an spray bottle. The chips aren't being pushed back into the part. I try to climb mill when ever I can but one thing I don't do is take a final pass at a few thou. because it's hard enough setting up for the cuts with all the angles and degrees on the rotab.

That's the reason I suggested you explore CNC. You can leave a couple thou for a finish pass and end up with cuts that need no attention. Not to argue the point that you are known for manual work---just commenting that the CNC would eliminate the less than great finish, along with the handwork you do now.

A finish cut at high spindle speed, climb milled, and well lubed (kerosene or WD-40) would make a huge difference in the end result, even if you continue to work manually. It may be faster than the hand work you do now. Upon close examination, it appears you are experiencing minor chip welding, which will always yield a compromised finish. Proper lube and climb milling should eliminate the problem.

Harold

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Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

I didn't think I had any heat weld issues but perhaps I do. I took a close up pic of a reel that was done in the same fashion and at the same time as the other. I'd appreciate your opinion, does this look like it's exeriencing heat weld? I spray the lube on as needed and the part is always wet, or appears to be. One thing I notice is plunge holes are very smooth, Also just so you know, I make each pass at about .04" to .08" deep depending.

Yes, you ARE experiencing chip welding. Finish pass would be much better at just a few thou (five is plenty), and definitely change lubrication. You can brush apply either kerosene of WD-40 and improve the finish tremendously. The frosty appearance, random in pattern, is a dead giveaway that you are building chip on the cutter. It may be microscopic, and not evident by casual inspection. Part of the problem may be due to roughing and finishing with the same end mill. Once you get a slight buildup, it's hard to eliminate, although not impossible.

With a sharp end mill and proper lubrication, climb milling, the surface should be free of any pattern aside from the miniscule grooves (parallel lines), the result of the end mill being ground.

You commented that the part is always wet---and it likely is, but it may not be getting lubricated properly---chip welding isn't necessarily related to heat (although there is always heat), but more so to high friction at the point of the cut. Proper lubrication will prevent the aluminum from streaking off on the cutter.

Harold

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Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.