ARTFULL BODGER'S WASTE OIL FURNACE
Moderator: Harold_V
- steamin10
- Posts: 6712
- Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2003 11:52 pm
- Location: NW Indiana. Close to Lake Michigan S. tip
Re: ARTFULL BODGER'S WASTE OIL FURNACE
It is ZEN, and you have made complete parts. Congradulations are in order! (OK, I know you have YA-BUTS.)
Now you are fretting details to get the quality you want. That is going to give your personal pride a beating along the way, and smiles a mile wide when it all works.
Trust me on this. Perfection is always the goal, but rarely attained. You have accomplished much.
Now you are fretting details to get the quality you want. That is going to give your personal pride a beating along the way, and smiles a mile wide when it all works.
Trust me on this. Perfection is always the goal, but rarely attained. You have accomplished much.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
Re: ARTFULL BODGER'S WASTE OIL FURNACE
As Steamin10 said it all over but the details
For that reason I am going to wrap up this topic and move on to my newest issues such as sand in the part.
To round it all up:
The Plans for the furnace were purchased from Colen Peck who can be reached on his web site:
http://www.artfulbodgermetalcasting.com/
His book of drawings with shipping is on the steep side at 23.5 pounds. But I have to say it took me (a complete neophite) to the point I had a running furnace.
Cost for me to complete it was probably higher than most as I did have to purchase the Keg. I gave fifty dollars to a beer distributer for the stanless steel keg. The Refractory was the 3000 degree type that set me back 75.00 per bag for the three I needed. You can go cheaper but I thought someday I may want to try to melt cast iron. All in all I believe I ended up with around three hundred in the whole project. One of the harder things for me to locate was the two inch thinwall stainless pipe. Ended up getting this from a exaust shop in Athens Alabams. Had to buy the whole ten foot stick so I have enough for burners for life time.
If I had it to do over I would not have built the frame as he has it. I would have mounted the whole thing on an old lawn mower frame with larger wheels. Then I could push it out on the gravel drive farther from the house.
As to it being cheaper to run than propane:
I have found two sources of oil and have even woke up to find five gallons of oil on my doorstep that some one dropped off. People at work now ask me if I want there oil after they do their oil changes. This along with the manager of the local high school concession stand still ask me if I need any. She normally gives hers to the farmers to mix in their pig feed but still has too much to dispose of during the sports season.
I gave up on the propane system to start it. This after it giving me nothing but trouble and then found Colin Peck also gave up on it. I pick up plywood and oak board cutoffs from a local cabinet shop once a month for starter wood. I light off with a handfull of it and slowly turn on the oil. As it heats up the wood burns away completely.
I use an older shop vac of the blower which is loud but you can't hear it over the roar of the furnace once she is hot. Not a quiet thing when it gets going. My neigbors live a ways down the road and if anything like to come see what I am up too.
So far I have bought most of my supplies from Budget Castings but did make my own tongs and pouring shank from metal.
Tools:
You need a stick welder, 5 inch side grinder, Cut Off Saw, Drill press is handy, and the usual hand tools.
Quite the experiance overall and I am enjoying the use of it.
For that reason I am going to wrap up this topic and move on to my newest issues such as sand in the part.
To round it all up:
The Plans for the furnace were purchased from Colen Peck who can be reached on his web site:
http://www.artfulbodgermetalcasting.com/
His book of drawings with shipping is on the steep side at 23.5 pounds. But I have to say it took me (a complete neophite) to the point I had a running furnace.
Cost for me to complete it was probably higher than most as I did have to purchase the Keg. I gave fifty dollars to a beer distributer for the stanless steel keg. The Refractory was the 3000 degree type that set me back 75.00 per bag for the three I needed. You can go cheaper but I thought someday I may want to try to melt cast iron. All in all I believe I ended up with around three hundred in the whole project. One of the harder things for me to locate was the two inch thinwall stainless pipe. Ended up getting this from a exaust shop in Athens Alabams. Had to buy the whole ten foot stick so I have enough for burners for life time.
If I had it to do over I would not have built the frame as he has it. I would have mounted the whole thing on an old lawn mower frame with larger wheels. Then I could push it out on the gravel drive farther from the house.
As to it being cheaper to run than propane:
I have found two sources of oil and have even woke up to find five gallons of oil on my doorstep that some one dropped off. People at work now ask me if I want there oil after they do their oil changes. This along with the manager of the local high school concession stand still ask me if I need any. She normally gives hers to the farmers to mix in their pig feed but still has too much to dispose of during the sports season.
I gave up on the propane system to start it. This after it giving me nothing but trouble and then found Colin Peck also gave up on it. I pick up plywood and oak board cutoffs from a local cabinet shop once a month for starter wood. I light off with a handfull of it and slowly turn on the oil. As it heats up the wood burns away completely.
I use an older shop vac of the blower which is loud but you can't hear it over the roar of the furnace once she is hot. Not a quiet thing when it gets going. My neigbors live a ways down the road and if anything like to come see what I am up too.
So far I have bought most of my supplies from Budget Castings but did make my own tongs and pouring shank from metal.
Tools:
You need a stick welder, 5 inch side grinder, Cut Off Saw, Drill press is handy, and the usual hand tools.
Quite the experiance overall and I am enjoying the use of it.
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Re: ARTFULL BODGER'S WASTE OIL FURNACE
Well one more last thing.
Put a little work into the furnace making improvements to the blower tube (Not that the design needed improving) by removing some of the original Duct Tape type work and replacing it with quality.
I have yet to make Colin's control valve, making do with a small ballvalve. This is not optimum but I am able to melt metal.
I ran it last night melting aluminum. The melt was simply to test the Pyrometer I bought from Budget casting without the preasure of trying to make a part. I melted a batch of aluminum that is from an old donated outboard motor to make a couple of ingots.
I lit off the starter wood at five till six. I used old lamp oil that I found under the sink for starter fluid. I brought the oil on line at 6:00. I let the first batch melt (used a simple rod to poke it thru the vent to see if it melted). I recharged it and put the probe down into the crucible thru the vent. (this based on the writeup from the Budget Casting Website) When it hit 1200 I degassed it and poured it into the molds. The speed at which it was melted was quicker than anything Ive done. I kept the plume small and after the pour I noted the time was 6:15 when I closed it up after returning the crucible to the inside of the furnace to cool.
I see now that I was using way too much oil on my early attempts. It seems to get much hotter much faster with the smaller amount of fuel and air.
One thing I have done is to clean up the area that I cast in. The table helps orginize everything
I have purchased a lot of safety equipment, started laying everything out before lighting the fire so that I don't find myself running around looking for stuff when it's too late, and finally not trying to cast when I am in a hurry for time.
Also not trying too many new ideas at one time
Next is to try to pour a set of journal boxes for the engine.
Put a little work into the furnace making improvements to the blower tube (Not that the design needed improving) by removing some of the original Duct Tape type work and replacing it with quality.
I have yet to make Colin's control valve, making do with a small ballvalve. This is not optimum but I am able to melt metal.
I ran it last night melting aluminum. The melt was simply to test the Pyrometer I bought from Budget casting without the preasure of trying to make a part. I melted a batch of aluminum that is from an old donated outboard motor to make a couple of ingots.
I lit off the starter wood at five till six. I used old lamp oil that I found under the sink for starter fluid. I brought the oil on line at 6:00. I let the first batch melt (used a simple rod to poke it thru the vent to see if it melted). I recharged it and put the probe down into the crucible thru the vent. (this based on the writeup from the Budget Casting Website) When it hit 1200 I degassed it and poured it into the molds. The speed at which it was melted was quicker than anything Ive done. I kept the plume small and after the pour I noted the time was 6:15 when I closed it up after returning the crucible to the inside of the furnace to cool.
I see now that I was using way too much oil on my early attempts. It seems to get much hotter much faster with the smaller amount of fuel and air.
One thing I have done is to clean up the area that I cast in. The table helps orginize everything
I have purchased a lot of safety equipment, started laying everything out before lighting the fire so that I don't find myself running around looking for stuff when it's too late, and finally not trying to cast when I am in a hurry for time.
Also not trying too many new ideas at one time
Next is to try to pour a set of journal boxes for the engine.
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
- steamin10
- Posts: 6712
- Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2003 11:52 pm
- Location: NW Indiana. Close to Lake Michigan S. tip
Re: ARTFULL BODGER'S WASTE OIL FURNACE
Gauging by the pyre comming out of the top vent, and nothing else, you may be able to cut back a bit more on fuel/blast. I run Natural/LPG gas and my vent only casts flame about 6" or so. You want the heat in the furnace, not overfired. If you have a 15 minute melt time, you are right on it. Just fine tuning.
AS for the Probe, I prefer to measure without the lid on, as I believe the thermal shock of going into the flame to the cooler metal, and heating the midsectin of the probe does it no-good.. So I uncover, measure, and based on temp, work the heat additions and pour, or close up again and gain temperature. When your base metal is hot, do the lot, ingot, pig, or pour, right after additions.
If your memory is poor, I recomment a log, and notebook. Times, temps, pour successful or flawed? Do something diferent? Dont waste time on experiments, without recording the result. Thsi information can guide you into new moves, or away from trouble. Keep it simple, but know your charge weights and additions for silicon, and chlorine for each melt. This information is invaluable to improving the made parts, consistantly.
Congrats! and keep the clear doings coming. You are leading a few now.
AS for the Probe, I prefer to measure without the lid on, as I believe the thermal shock of going into the flame to the cooler metal, and heating the midsectin of the probe does it no-good.. So I uncover, measure, and based on temp, work the heat additions and pour, or close up again and gain temperature. When your base metal is hot, do the lot, ingot, pig, or pour, right after additions.
If your memory is poor, I recomment a log, and notebook. Times, temps, pour successful or flawed? Do something diferent? Dont waste time on experiments, without recording the result. Thsi information can guide you into new moves, or away from trouble. Keep it simple, but know your charge weights and additions for silicon, and chlorine for each melt. This information is invaluable to improving the made parts, consistantly.
Congrats! and keep the clear doings coming. You are leading a few now.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
Re: ARTFULL BODGER'S WASTE OIL FURNACE
I think this is good advice. On the Aluminum melt I noted the middle of the probe where it entered the lid was red hot during the melt. Ill try it your way next.AS for the Probe, I prefer to measure without the lid on, as I believe the thermal shock of going into the flame to the cooler metal, and heating the midsectin of the probe does it no-good.. So I uncover, measure, and based on temp, work the heat additions and pour, or close up again and gain temperature. When your base metal is hot, do the lot, ingot, pig, or pour, right after additions.
I am thinking I will melt it until I can feel with a rod the block of metal go liquid then heat for a measured amount of time more and then turn off the oil and air. Then measure thru the vent. It should hold heat with the lid closed and I can turn the heat back on as needed.
At he cost of the probe I do not want to kill it early from shock.
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Re: ARTFULL BODGER'S WASTE OIL FURNACE
Can you turn the flame way down and open the lid? We do it all the time to see how the melt is doing. We will skim some dross off so we can add more to fill the crucible and it doesn't hurt anything that we can tell. You could then put the probe in and check the temp.
Tom C.
Tom C.
tom_at_srclry_com
A student of the Southend RGS!
A student of the Southend RGS!
Re: ARTFULL BODGER'S WASTE OIL FURNACE
I'll thy that method too. I had not thought cleaning the dross of the top was a good idea though. I thought you left it there as long as possible to keep the air away from the metal
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
- steamin10
- Posts: 6712
- Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2003 11:52 pm
- Location: NW Indiana. Close to Lake Michigan S. tip
Re: ARTFULL BODGER'S WASTE OIL FURNACE
Disturbing the melt along the way, that is stirring with a rod, or a cheapy stainless serving spoon from the $1 store, serves to bring the slightly lighter dross, (oxides and dirt) to the top of the melt.
In my way of doing things, I stir gently with the spoon 3 strokes across the vessel. This sets the metal movement. When the swirling action stops in about 5 seconds, I make a round and gather the top waste to an edge, and get it out. Twice. I then work the heat for pour or add material to get the volume I need. Never stirr so hard as to lift the metal to the air. Just to set up some motion. Cleaning/degass with a plunger and chlorine material should be done quickly, with pupose, careful not to be in the fume cloud.
In my way of doing things, I stir gently with the spoon 3 strokes across the vessel. This sets the metal movement. When the swirling action stops in about 5 seconds, I make a round and gather the top waste to an edge, and get it out. Twice. I then work the heat for pour or add material to get the volume I need. Never stirr so hard as to lift the metal to the air. Just to set up some motion. Cleaning/degass with a plunger and chlorine material should be done quickly, with pupose, careful not to be in the fume cloud.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
Re: ARTFULL BODGER'S WASTE OIL FURNACE
We only do aluminun so don't degass just flux to get more junk out. I skim before I flux so I can see if i need more product and then when that melts, clean again then flux and clean, check the color of the crucible and if it is cherry, pour. so far it seems to work!
Tom C.
Tom C.
tom_at_srclry_com
A student of the Southend RGS!
A student of the Southend RGS!
-
- Posts: 885
- Joined: Sun Oct 12, 2003 10:12 pm
- Location: Miami Oklahoma (Palm trees not included)
Re: ARTFULL BODGER'S WASTE OIL FURNACE
Charlie you are an inspiration. Just ordered Colins book, The Metalcasters Bible and the Mc Casslen pattern book.
Here is the project
Here is the project
Dennis
Thermal Arc 185-TS
Millermatic Challenger 172
Victor O/A
Atlas Craftsman 12 by 24 Lathe
Esab PCM-875
Wholesale Tool Mill-Drill
Thermal Arc 185-TS
Millermatic Challenger 172
Victor O/A
Atlas Craftsman 12 by 24 Lathe
Esab PCM-875
Wholesale Tool Mill-Drill
Re: ARTFULL BODGER'S WASTE OIL FURNACE
Wow. Are we talking a model of this or the real thing
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Re: ARTFULL BODGER'S WASTE OIL FURNACE
New Fuel Tank
I have been using a five gallon gas can on the embankment for a fuel tank.
Had a friend donate this for the cause and have it plumbed up. it looks to hold around 20 gallons.
Plan is to roll it up on the retainer wall and lay it flat
Also found a new ingot mold on sale
Cast Iron pan for cornbread
I have been using a five gallon gas can on the embankment for a fuel tank.
Had a friend donate this for the cause and have it plumbed up. it looks to hold around 20 gallons.
Plan is to roll it up on the retainer wall and lay it flat
Also found a new ingot mold on sale
Cast Iron pan for cornbread
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)