HELP! I have a problem with SB ID, and getting the right com

[steamin10]

As the title says, I am having trouble getting the right compound and am now confused. The tag on the South Bend says it is a C model 42 inch bed. It has a single lever gear change box, and it measures about 5.5 inches from chuck center to lathe bed. The bed itself has a bunch of cast-in cross webbing below the ways, unlike my 9 inch that has just three cross bars. At any rate, some numbskull had a wreck and broke the back of the tool holder out leaving only the front side. I have since milled off the break and installed a bar to restore the tool slot, but being it is only held by two countersunk 5/16 grade 8 screws, I have little doubt it will fail early. I will cut a tool block to replace the lantern post for better strength, as the geometry should take some of the load off of the repair.

A compound bought off the internet will not fit the carriage, as the spud is too small. it seems to be 1 3/8, where the carriage is 1 5/8. Anybody have any greater knowledge here? Is this an old 11, heavy ten, 9 inch, or what?

I know, I need the serial #. Sorry, its at work, and I am home.

PS. Complete compound with small increment wheel for sale $80. Mine is good, I dont need it.

[GlennW]

Would sleeving to spud to 1 5/8" solve your problem, or are there other mismatched features such as locking bolt holes?

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

As the title says, I am having trouble getting the right compound and am now confused. The tag on the South Bend says it is a C model 42 inch bed. It has a single lever gear change box, and it measures about 5.5 inches from chuck center to lathe bed. The bed itself has a bunch of cast-in cross webbing below the ways, unlike my 9 inch that has just three cross bars.

Do you have any pictures of this lathe?

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb

[steamin10]

This is a sensative thing, as for pics, being its a company thing, and they are all suspicious. I have been given a nod to bring this small shop lathe up to a usable standard. I go to work tonite for two days and will try to get some sense of what I am dealing with. This shold have been easy, but as usual Murphy sneaked in. More later.

[spro]

Hi Dave. I measured some stuff from an 11" S.B. (late '20's-early '30's) The compound doesn't use the tapered spud. There's a 3/8" pin in the center and T-nuts running in a machined ring of the cross slide. By the late '50's it looks as all sizes used the "spud".
hope this helps.

[Patio]

I have a 1945 SB Heavy 10 and the spud is 1 5/8 at the large end.
How large is the through hole in the spindle?
You may have a Heavy 10.

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

I have a 1945 SB Heavy 10 and the spud is 1 5/8 at the large end.
How large is the through hole in the spindle?
You may have a Heavy 10.

I've been thinking something along the same lines. Especially, when he said:

The bed itself has a bunch of cast-in cross webbing below the ways, unlike my 9 inch that has just three cross bars.

That sounds like a late model Heavy Ten lathe bed. But the single lever QC
gearbox is indicative of an earlier Heavy Ten. I wonder if he is dealing with some
kind of "Frankenlathe." That is why I asked for a picture to help in identifying just
what kind of lathe he is dealing with.

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb

[spro]

Webb. I'm similarly confused. "The tag on the South Bend says it is a C model 42" bed.." By this later compound, models "C" were equipped with manual change gears, hence no shift lever. C also had a plain apron with no power feeds.
The heavy one( 1 1/16" collet capacity, 1 3/8 "spindle ID) wasn't even offered in a C model (1958 anyway).

[steamin10]

Sorry that I have given some small bits of info wrong. I have to make an effort to put hands on this lathe in the shop as it is out of the way sorta. It is a two lever change box, not one as stated, it is 1 5/8 carriage hole, and the carriage is equiped with a power feed apron for cross feed.

I did not get any pics. I was busy as all getout with down turn work, Sat-Sun.
So it appears it is a later Heavy Ten.

I butchered the broken slide and put countersunk 5/16 screws in some soft stock to redo the tool slot, but it is obviously weak.

I need the slide itself and the screw as some dolt mushroomed the threads for the dial nut. It has the large dial.

[Richard_W]

.....put countersunk 5/16 screws in some soft stock to redo the tool slot, but it is obviously weak.

I did this on a 24" swing German built Martin lathe, only I used 1/2" flat head screws. As far as I know it's still running in the Portland ship yard.

Richard W.

[SteveM]

Dave,

This is a 9C:


This is a heavy 10:


Look at the apron to see the major identifying features.

Which does yours look like?

I'm with Webb - think it's going to be an H10

Steve

[steamin10]

Ya, thats the machine, only with a more modern cabinet, and it is an underdrive. One diference is a flip lever for the cross drive rather than the hand knob, an obvious addition.

I plsn on cutting a tool block, as it will work better than using the lantern post they have now, missing the rocker. These guys are cludges when it comes to lathe work.