MY VERSION OF THE GAUGE GLASS PIPING
- Trainman4602
- Posts: 3482
- Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2004 9:26 pm
- Location: New Jersey
MY VERSION OF THE GAUGE GLASS PIPING
This is the Dave Sclavi version of the proper gauge glass piping.
I used valves that are available from PM Research.
I modify the bottom valve to except a 3/16 globe valve for the blow down.
To do this I disassembled the valve removing the bonnet. The bonnet, for those who are not aware, is the part that has the valve stem and the wheel. Use a 1/4 inch wrench and remove it.
Next: Take a piece of pipe in this case a 5/16 pipe with a 5/16-27 thread on the end. Screw the valve body onto the pipe hold in a collet in the lathe and counter bore the bottom of the valve to a diameter of 1/4 for a depth of 1/8 inch.
Next: Take a small piece of 3/8 brass cut off to about 3/8 inch turn the end to 1/4 for a length of 1/8. Do not drill the end just yet.
Next: Silver solder this piece at the bottom of the valve body to the counter bore.
Next: After a run thru the bead blaster if you have one, screw it back onto the pipe use in the boring operation.
Next: Turn the attached brass piece to 5/16 (.312) for the length of the piece. Then drill and tap for the appropriate thread you intend to use. I used 3/16-40 MPT.
Next: Drill a 1/8 drilled hole on an angle into the valve body away from the seat. This is important as to NOT break into the seat and destroy the body.
Assemble and there it is a Special gauge glass valve.
Here are the parts with the cost that I used to make the setup.
1 PMR 5/16-27 angle valve $28.00 ea. Used for the modification.
This is your choice to use an angle or globe valve at the top
1 5/16-27 PMR valve $28.00 ea. Angle or Globe valves are the same price
1 3/16-40 globe valves for the blow down. $28.00 ea.
I plan on using two unions at the top and bottom of the gauge glass for easy removal. They are on order.
2 5/16 PMR unions 6.25 ea. Total $12.50
Some close nipples
4 5/16-27 X close nipple $2.30 ea. Total $9.20( if you prefer to use stainless steel instead of brass these are available from American Model Engineering)
1 3/16-40 close nipple $2.10 ea.
1 Mercer gauge glass $75.00 ea.
Total cost for this set up $182.00 and a little time.(Note: how easy it is to read the RED LINE GLASS. An important factor in running steam locomotives.)
I used valves that are available from PM Research.
I modify the bottom valve to except a 3/16 globe valve for the blow down.
To do this I disassembled the valve removing the bonnet. The bonnet, for those who are not aware, is the part that has the valve stem and the wheel. Use a 1/4 inch wrench and remove it.
Next: Take a piece of pipe in this case a 5/16 pipe with a 5/16-27 thread on the end. Screw the valve body onto the pipe hold in a collet in the lathe and counter bore the bottom of the valve to a diameter of 1/4 for a depth of 1/8 inch.
Next: Take a small piece of 3/8 brass cut off to about 3/8 inch turn the end to 1/4 for a length of 1/8. Do not drill the end just yet.
Next: Silver solder this piece at the bottom of the valve body to the counter bore.
Next: After a run thru the bead blaster if you have one, screw it back onto the pipe use in the boring operation.
Next: Turn the attached brass piece to 5/16 (.312) for the length of the piece. Then drill and tap for the appropriate thread you intend to use. I used 3/16-40 MPT.
Next: Drill a 1/8 drilled hole on an angle into the valve body away from the seat. This is important as to NOT break into the seat and destroy the body.
Assemble and there it is a Special gauge glass valve.
Here are the parts with the cost that I used to make the setup.
1 PMR 5/16-27 angle valve $28.00 ea. Used for the modification.
This is your choice to use an angle or globe valve at the top
1 5/16-27 PMR valve $28.00 ea. Angle or Globe valves are the same price
1 3/16-40 globe valves for the blow down. $28.00 ea.
I plan on using two unions at the top and bottom of the gauge glass for easy removal. They are on order.
2 5/16 PMR unions 6.25 ea. Total $12.50
Some close nipples
4 5/16-27 X close nipple $2.30 ea. Total $9.20( if you prefer to use stainless steel instead of brass these are available from American Model Engineering)
1 3/16-40 close nipple $2.10 ea.
1 Mercer gauge glass $75.00 ea.
Total cost for this set up $182.00 and a little time.(Note: how easy it is to read the RED LINE GLASS. An important factor in running steam locomotives.)
ALLWAYS OPERATING MY TRAIN IN A SAFE MANNER USING AUTOMATIC AIR BRAKES
Re: MY VERSION OF THE GAUGE GLASS PIPING
Nice work.
Is that a reflex glass.
I'm using one of Bob Deans reflex gauges (the older cast ones) with PMR valves on the top and bottom.
Karl
Is that a reflex glass.
I'm using one of Bob Deans reflex gauges (the older cast ones) with PMR valves on the top and bottom.
Karl
- steamin10
- Posts: 6712
- Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2003 11:52 pm
- Location: NW Indiana. Close to Lake Michigan S. tip
Re: MY VERSION OF THE GAUGE GLASS PIPING
Dave. Thanks for the layout of the process for your gauge glass. It sounds most defensive on purpose and cost. I wish it were not so. A proper glass, that can be read at a glance, is most important to a steam operation, and the minute diferences are sometimes lost, over cost. I really feel your need to succeed here. Thanks for your efforts, you are a true artisan in this field.
All the best, and Happy Holidays to you, and yours. Big Dave.
All the best, and Happy Holidays to you, and yours. Big Dave.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
- Trainman4602
- Posts: 3482
- Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2004 9:26 pm
- Location: New Jersey
Re: MY VERSION OF THE GAUGE GLASS PIPING
Dave I am not being defensive at all. As you are aware of I have a gauge glass and I am a major advocate on the proper way to connect and blow it down.
I have had this setup planed for some time exactly the way I have presented it.
As for the cost mention. If you want to pay more money for basically the same thing then that is your prerogative.
I have had this setup planed for some time exactly the way I have presented it.
As for the cost mention. If you want to pay more money for basically the same thing then that is your prerogative.
ALLWAYS OPERATING MY TRAIN IN A SAFE MANNER USING AUTOMATIC AIR BRAKES
Re: MY VERSION OF THE GAUGE GLASS PIPING
Turned out nice Dave.
Happy Holidays
PS I am using your paint brush idea while turning cast iron wheels and it sure helps keep the chips in one spot
Charlie
Happy Holidays
PS I am using your paint brush idea while turning cast iron wheels and it sure helps keep the chips in one spot
Charlie
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
- Trainman4602
- Posts: 3482
- Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2004 9:26 pm
- Location: New Jersey
Re: MY VERSION OF THE GAUGE GLASS PIPING
Thanks Charlie for your help with it.
Charlie made the solid works drawing that I sent to Shape ways. This 3D print was used as the master.
The brush idea came from my mentor Irv Leibowitz.
Your gauge glasses will go out tomorrow.
Charlie made the solid works drawing that I sent to Shape ways. This 3D print was used as the master.
The brush idea came from my mentor Irv Leibowitz.
Your gauge glasses will go out tomorrow.
ALLWAYS OPERATING MY TRAIN IN A SAFE MANNER USING AUTOMATIC AIR BRAKES
- Trainman4602
- Posts: 3482
- Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2004 9:26 pm
- Location: New Jersey
Re: MY VERSION OF THE GAUGE GLASS PIPING
Karl it is not a reflex glass. I don't care for the reflex glass I find them hard to read after a while especially if you use LSB water treatment. LSB tends to etch the glass giving a false reading.
I ran the 1361's boiler dry several times using A reflex style glass. This is what prompted me into devopling my own using a tubular RED LINE GLASS.
I ran the 1361's boiler dry several times using A reflex style glass. This is what prompted me into devopling my own using a tubular RED LINE GLASS.
ALLWAYS OPERATING MY TRAIN IN A SAFE MANNER USING AUTOMATIC AIR BRAKES
- PeterCraymer
- Posts: 223
- Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2003 6:57 am
- Location: Maysville, Ga.
Re: MY VERSION OF THE GAUGE GLASS PIPING
Great explanation Dave. Beautiful setup and gauge.
- Trainman4602
- Posts: 3482
- Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2004 9:26 pm
- Location: New Jersey
Re: MY VERSION OF THE GAUGE GLASS PIPING
There is a misconception here. I don't sell the valves you can get them from PM Research. I just sell the gauge glass.
Valves and fittings available from PM Research.
http://www.pmmodelengines.com/
Valves and fittings available from PM Research.
http://www.pmmodelengines.com/
ALLWAYS OPERATING MY TRAIN IN A SAFE MANNER USING AUTOMATIC AIR BRAKES