Today found piping and fittings on the menu. The 3/16" MTP 90 degree elbows were trimmed from the tree and 4 of them were drilled and tapped 10-32 since these parts are decorative only. These will thread into the valve chambers and represent drain lines.
I made a couple of die holders so that the die goes into the holder cutting end first. Each holder has a different size hole that just fits over the pipe. So far one has been made for 3/16" and 1/4" thick wall tubing. A bushing is used in the 1/4" to fit on 1/8" tubing. The 1/8" brass thick wall tubing showed up yesterday and two of the cylinder drain cock pipes were threaded and bent. The 1/8" tees came from PM engineering as part of a fitting tree.
A trio of Nathan DV-7 castings arrived today. They are a lot smaller than envisioned. Like others a method of increasing the oil reservoir will be needed. I had volunteered to undertake this project and it looks to be quite a bit more daunting than the Worthington Hot Water Pump. Them screws are tiny!!!
Donald
GS-1, finishing up the hard way
Moderator: Harold_V
Re: GS-1, finishing up the hard way
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- Self aligning die holders for manual threading of rods and tubing.
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- Bending the steam supply line loop for the cylinder drain cocks. Decided to replace the copper with brass.
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- Making sure the loop clears the drains.
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- Checking out to see if adding the valve chamber drain piping will work. Unions will need to be made and installed between the valve chamber and the elbow.
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- What have I gotten myself into. A lot of thought will need to go into just how I should go about making them usable.
Re: GS-1, finishing up the hard way
The curve test of the lead truck went well. On the inbound track at the SVLS club site ( one of the sharpest curves ) the spring depressed about 1/8" which is 1/2 of the designed travel. The truck now clears the cylinder heads so new ones can be made to replace the ones that have flange wear in them. Traction on curves should be greatly enhanced now that the rockers aren't lifting weight off of the drivers.
Past experience has shown me that I need a better machine than my milling machine to drill the really small holes. The DV-7 castings have a lot of 0-80 and 00-90 threads. Budgetary constraints preclude purchases so making do with what is at hand is a very real necessity. Turns out the nose on a Dremel flex shaft is a 1/2-20 thread so a bracket to hold the tool and an operating mechanism was made. The feather touch this machine now makes drilling these small holes less of an ordeal. A tapping attachment will also be made for this machine.
The new piping to the brake cylinders has required some changes in the under running board piping. A smaller pipe is being installed to more accurately reflect the signal line and moving it to the top of the stack of piping where it belongs. Previously u-bolts were used to secure the piping. OK, unless they need removal. Changing to a prototype bracket system is now being implemented. A die was made to bend the brackets and it will be used to hold the brackets for drilling once the bending is finished. To clear the 3/16" socket for the 4-40 nuts that will be used the pipes to be spread slightly more than prototype, yet less than the original spacing when using the u-bolts.
Donald
Past experience has shown me that I need a better machine than my milling machine to drill the really small holes. The DV-7 castings have a lot of 0-80 and 00-90 threads. Budgetary constraints preclude purchases so making do with what is at hand is a very real necessity. Turns out the nose on a Dremel flex shaft is a 1/2-20 thread so a bracket to hold the tool and an operating mechanism was made. The feather touch this machine now makes drilling these small holes less of an ordeal. A tapping attachment will also be made for this machine.
The new piping to the brake cylinders has required some changes in the under running board piping. A smaller pipe is being installed to more accurately reflect the signal line and moving it to the top of the stack of piping where it belongs. Previously u-bolts were used to secure the piping. OK, unless they need removal. Changing to a prototype bracket system is now being implemented. A die was made to bend the brackets and it will be used to hold the brackets for drilling once the bending is finished. To clear the 3/16" socket for the 4-40 nuts that will be used the pipes to be spread slightly more than prototype, yet less than the original spacing when using the u-bolts.
Donald
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- Dies and the end result.
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- This unit should improve my small hole drilling results.
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- With the lead truck at the limit of its side travel the spring is depressed about 1/2 way. The tube on the bottom will now be welder to the centering device. The upper part is secured with a 1/2-20 bolt and a 3/8" dowel pin is used to keep it from rotating since the mounting hole is off center.
Re: GS-1, finishing up the hard way
Today saw the completion of the tapping apparatus for the miniature drill press. Tests on a piece of 1/8" thick brass were highly successful using Cobalt drills and roll form taps. Now it is time to turn to the lubricator project.
The operating lever calls for a 9/32" bore for a RC02 roller clutch. I was able to hold the arm in a 3/8" collet and reamed the hole.
Monday should see the purchase of a piece of 2" Aluminum angle that will be squared up and mounting holes for the lubricator feet drilled in it. That will give me a way to hold the body casting for the machining operations.
Donald
The operating lever calls for a 9/32" bore for a RC02 roller clutch. I was able to hold the arm in a 3/8" collet and reamed the hole.
Monday should see the purchase of a piece of 2" Aluminum angle that will be squared up and mounting holes for the lubricator feet drilled in it. That will give me a way to hold the body casting for the machining operations.
Donald
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- The tapping attachment threads into the same hole as the drill head. I felt real comfortable drilling and tapping for 00-90 screws.
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- First chips, Reamed the actuator arm for the RC02 roller clutches. Once the body can be mounted on a bracket work on it will begin in earnest.
Re: GS-1, finishing up the hard way
Made the clutch housings and started on the bodies.
Donald
Donald
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Re: GS-1, finishing up the hard way
Finished the drilling and tapping for the lid hold-down clamps and the sight glasses. Next is the levers and drive shaft.
Does anyone have any experience with these sprockets and chain.
http://servolink.com/sprcspec.htm
I would like to use them to drive the actual lubricator located behind and below these bodies. Will the chain hold up and will the sprockets hold well enough to the shaft to be able to drive the pumps?
Donald
Does anyone have any experience with these sprockets and chain.
http://servolink.com/sprcspec.htm
I would like to use them to drive the actual lubricator located behind and below these bodies. Will the chain hold up and will the sprockets hold well enough to the shaft to be able to drive the pumps?
Donald
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- Mounted all the clamps on one strip of brass to mill down the tangs to fit the body castings.
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- A standard center drill would not clear the body so one was ground down so the lid latch hole could be drilled.
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- A little closer to being finished.
Re: GS-1, finishing up the hard way
The scale priming levers that come with the DV-7 castings are a bit too small to be operated with my fingers so larger ones were fabricated. The levers are scaled up 1.5 times and the operating knobs are double size. At this size the knobs are 5/16" dia. and .400" long, just enough to grab on. The larger parts allowed the use of 4-40 threads on the knob mounting stub which should withstand all but the most vigorous operation. The scale knobs would have required a stud of at the most 0-80 size.
The mounting stub for the lead truck was grooved for an o-ring and the ring on the lead truck centering device machined out to accommodate the o-ring. The tube was then welded to the centering device.
I had been asked to show the centering rockers so attached are a couple of photos showing how mine were made.
Donald
The mounting stub for the lead truck was grooved for an o-ring and the ring on the lead truck centering device machined out to accommodate the o-ring. The tube was then welded to the centering device.
I had been asked to show the centering rockers so attached are a couple of photos showing how mine were made.
Donald
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- New levers and knobs. At the left is a form tool for the knobs.
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- O-ring on the mounting stub and clearance machined in the tube. A high pressure grease will be used to lubricate the stub to the shaft and the o-ring will help keep water and debris out.
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- This is how I made the centering rockers. Originally the ramps extended to the end of the material but I machined the ends flat to reduce the lift on curves. Some things do not scale down well.
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- The rockers sit on these grooves. A little more clean up and the truck will be ready for new paint.
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Gary Bonine
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sat Jun 14, 2008 1:21 pm
- Location: El Paso, TX
Re: GS-1, finishing up the hard way
Don,
Your welded cylinders are fantastic. Do you have any drawings for them and, if so, would it be possible to purchase copies ?
Gary Bonine
Your welded cylinders are fantastic. Do you have any drawings for them and, if so, would it be possible to purchase copies ?
Gary Bonine
Re: GS-1, finishing up the hard way
Most of the drawings for the GS-1 were done on an Apple 2 computer using a CNC programming software that belonged to a person we were sharing shop space with. The program, computer and floppy discs the files were on are long gone and so is most of the information. During the past few years I have been trying to redraw what I can in AutoCAD LT 2000. One problem is that some of the construction details have been forgotten and I can only guess as how some parts were made and assembled. The cylinders are a case in point. Others have PM'd me about the construction of the cylinders and I have gathered as much information as I could and shared it with them. Below are screenshots of the latest efforts to recreate the construction of my cylinder block. I have added some notes that I believe were how I did some of the assembly.
The basic dimensions were taken from the Baldwin GS-1 Erection drawing and scaled to .1327" equals 1", or 1.6 scale. The bore was reduced to 3.0 inches as the scale bore would be larger than needed. The stroke is scale for 30 inch piston travel.The little engine 4-8-4's used 2-3/4" cylinders and they have more than enough power. The 1.6" scale 73-1/2" drivers are almost as large as the 1.5" scale 80" drivers. My dad used 3.0" diameter cylinders on the Cab-Forward and this size has given good performance. The valve gear is from the GS-1 drawing but I believe I used the GS-4 information for the valve and valve spools since the valve travel on the GS-4 was the same as on the GS-1, and my dad had a lot of GS-4 information.
The valve rings come from an automatic transmission, a Chrysler product I believe and are 1.5" OD. The rings are of the hook ring type. The valves are 303 stainless and the valve spools are Bronze. The pistons are 303 Stainless and use a single Teflon type hydraulic cylinder piston seal with an O-ring expander between the ring and the piston. The O-ring is I believe is Ethelin-Propylene. The cylinder liner is also bronze. My cylinder liner has holes at each end for the steam passages. On the GS-4's and other engines my father made cylinders for have shorter liners that were just the length of the piston travel plus the thickness of the piston. That way he did not need to drill steam passages and groove the cylinder barrel as I had done on my cylinders.
Hopefully this helps.
Donald
The basic dimensions were taken from the Baldwin GS-1 Erection drawing and scaled to .1327" equals 1", or 1.6 scale. The bore was reduced to 3.0 inches as the scale bore would be larger than needed. The stroke is scale for 30 inch piston travel.The little engine 4-8-4's used 2-3/4" cylinders and they have more than enough power. The 1.6" scale 73-1/2" drivers are almost as large as the 1.5" scale 80" drivers. My dad used 3.0" diameter cylinders on the Cab-Forward and this size has given good performance. The valve gear is from the GS-1 drawing but I believe I used the GS-4 information for the valve and valve spools since the valve travel on the GS-4 was the same as on the GS-1, and my dad had a lot of GS-4 information.
The valve rings come from an automatic transmission, a Chrysler product I believe and are 1.5" OD. The rings are of the hook ring type. The valves are 303 stainless and the valve spools are Bronze. The pistons are 303 Stainless and use a single Teflon type hydraulic cylinder piston seal with an O-ring expander between the ring and the piston. The O-ring is I believe is Ethelin-Propylene. The cylinder liner is also bronze. My cylinder liner has holes at each end for the steam passages. On the GS-4's and other engines my father made cylinders for have shorter liners that were just the length of the piston travel plus the thickness of the piston. That way he did not need to drill steam passages and groove the cylinder barrel as I had done on my cylinders.
Hopefully this helps.
Donald
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Gary Bonine
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sat Jun 14, 2008 1:21 pm
- Location: El Paso, TX
Re: GS-1, finishing up the hard way
Thanks much for the information. I have done some work hear and there with AutoCad and FeatureCam. I have had access to a CNC mill and it looks like I could do a number of basic shapes for the cylinder with it.
Again, thanks for the help; hope I get to see your GS-1 in person someday.
Gary
Again, thanks for the help; hope I get to see your GS-1 in person someday.
Gary
Re: GS-1, finishing up the hard way
Here is the block for my 2900 that is being built at Ed Yunglings shop using the same built-up construction techniques as used on Don's GS-1. Same liners, bore sizes, and rings as well if I am not mistaken. Hope this helps.
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Re: GS-1, finishing up the hard way
FWIW, Bob Reedy also used Ed Yunglings technique to build the cylinders for his Pennsy E6 Atlantic. I believe the May/June 09 issue has the article. Not a huge amount of information but the pictures and text do fully explain the technique involved (1/4" plate and thick wall tubing). As seems to be Bob's style, the entire article is in well photographed B&W photos.
Ken-
Ken-
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Gary Bonine
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sat Jun 14, 2008 1:21 pm
- Location: El Paso, TX
Re: GS-1, finishing up the hard way
Great help from everyone - thanks. Seems like I did see something along this line ( Live Steam & Outdoor Railroading ? ) in the past. Have some back issues stored, will dig them out to see what I can find with the May/June issue specifically in mind.
Gary
Gary