Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
Moderator: Harold_V
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
Started on the throttle packing gland today. This is essentially a 1" NPT pipe plug that serves two purposes:
1) The throttle rod packing gland
2) A large inspection port/cleanout plug in the backhead.
Apparently you can no longer purchase solid brass 1" plugs anymore, only hollow. Because I need more material there for the packing gland, I bored out the hollow pipe plug and machined a 5/16" long disc and silver soldered it in. I cut a small slot across the top and down one side of the filler piece so the solder would flow down and completely fill the small space on the inside, down between the two parts. Then, drilled the 1/4" hole for the throttle rod and the 1/2" bore for the packing nut, as well as the two 8-32 studs for the nut. Got started on the nut but had to quit early today. It's being made from a piece of 1.25" brass round stock. I should be able to finish that up tomorrow.
edit: forgot I snapped this with my phone ... wish it was in focus!
1) The throttle rod packing gland
2) A large inspection port/cleanout plug in the backhead.
Apparently you can no longer purchase solid brass 1" plugs anymore, only hollow. Because I need more material there for the packing gland, I bored out the hollow pipe plug and machined a 5/16" long disc and silver soldered it in. I cut a small slot across the top and down one side of the filler piece so the solder would flow down and completely fill the small space on the inside, down between the two parts. Then, drilled the 1/4" hole for the throttle rod and the 1/2" bore for the packing nut, as well as the two 8-32 studs for the nut. Got started on the nut but had to quit early today. It's being made from a piece of 1.25" brass round stock. I should be able to finish that up tomorrow.
edit: forgot I snapped this with my phone ... wish it was in focus!
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
Finished up the throttle rod packing gland this morning.
And the finishing touch, shape it and cut the studs: Painted boiler, ready for the throttle to be installed ... and all the other stuff! I'm waiting on a 1" NPT tap to open up the bushing on the backhead a bit so the plug/packing gland threads deeper into the boiler. Currently it leaves about 5/8" of threads on the outside. Need that to be one, maybe two, threads exposed so the packing gland is close to the backhead.
And the finishing touch, shape it and cut the studs: Painted boiler, ready for the throttle to be installed ... and all the other stuff! I'm waiting on a 1" NPT tap to open up the bushing on the backhead a bit so the plug/packing gland threads deeper into the boiler. Currently it leaves about 5/8" of threads on the outside. Need that to be one, maybe two, threads exposed so the packing gland is close to the backhead.
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
My hernia surgery went well, but I'm out of commission for the next couple weeks. About all I'll be able to work on is drawing up and laying out the throttle lever, rod, and bell crank for the ball valve in steam dome.
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
John,
I'm glad your surgery went well. I feel your pain. I had a Hydrocelectomy after a bad derailment at work last October. I've been following your rebuild of your locomotive and love seeing what your doing. Impressive!
Dale Berman
I'm glad your surgery went well. I feel your pain. I had a Hydrocelectomy after a bad derailment at work last October. I've been following your rebuild of your locomotive and love seeing what your doing. Impressive!
Dale Berman
- steamin10
- Posts: 6712
- Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2003 11:52 pm
- Location: NW Indiana. Close to Lake Michigan S. tip
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
Sorry for your troubles. I can tell you to take it slow, as re-injury can have devastating results. Dont pick up anything heavier than a cup of coffee. Stay away from TV and get square eyes traveling the U-Tube stuff that interests you.
At one time, I returned to work after some groin surgery, and cost myself another 4 weeks on the bench. Dont try to be a hero, (he-man). Take your time and lower your risk.
At one time, I returned to work after some groin surgery, and cost myself another 4 weeks on the bench. Dont try to be a hero, (he-man). Take your time and lower your risk.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
Recovery is going well, but I'm still on doctor's orders to take it easy. I did some light work starting on the ball valve for the throttle. Threw away the handle that came with it and made a new actuator that will connect to the throttle rod via a fabricated piece that I've not gotten to yet.
In the end this ball valve will be easily removable. There'll be a single cotter pin that connects the valve actuator and the rod linkage -- you can see the 3/16" pin with a hole in it for the cotter pin in the photo below. Once that's pulled out you can undo the rod and linkage and pull it completely out the backhead, then the ball valve simply unscrews from the elbow in the supply pipe.
Mocked up in place, waiting for the rest of the linkage to get made up. By the way, all these parts are 304SS.
In the end this ball valve will be easily removable. There'll be a single cotter pin that connects the valve actuator and the rod linkage -- you can see the 3/16" pin with a hole in it for the cotter pin in the photo below. Once that's pulled out you can undo the rod and linkage and pull it completely out the backhead, then the ball valve simply unscrews from the elbow in the supply pipe.
Mocked up in place, waiting for the rest of the linkage to get made up. By the way, all these parts are 304SS.
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
Fabricated the other half of the ball valve actuator this morning and got it brazed to the throttle rod.
The rod has a .875" offset bent into it so it aligns with the packing gland in the backhead. It may not be the prettiest part, but it works perfectly.
The rod has a .875" offset bent into it so it aligns with the packing gland in the backhead. It may not be the prettiest part, but it works perfectly.
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
Little bits at a time now.
Finished getting the throttle valve and dry pipe installed, including packing the front gland. After we tap out the bushing on the backhead I can cut the throttle rod to length -- you can see it's way long in the photo below.
Finished getting the throttle valve and dry pipe installed, including packing the front gland. After we tap out the bushing on the backhead I can cut the throttle rod to length -- you can see it's way long in the photo below.
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
Touchdown!
A little tweaking to the ash pan is required as it's contacting the rear of the mudring. A few moments with the grinder and that'll be sorted.
A little tweaking to the ash pan is required as it's contacting the rear of the mudring. A few moments with the grinder and that'll be sorted.
- makinsmoke
- Posts: 2260
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:56 pm
- Location: Texas Hill Country
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
Nice job of fabricating.
I'm assuming you made the new handle with the hole/slot offset for the stem so that it closes when you push the rod forward. Ball valve handles are usually aligned so that when they are parallel to the valve body the valve is open. Yours just appears closed in your photo and pushing the rod forward would appear to open it. But as I say you must have cut the opening in your new valve so the ball sits properly aligned.
I don't see any swivel mechanism in your linkage. Are you expecting the rod to flex to allow for offset at the valve handle as you push it?
Also, did you slot the rod before brazing the extension?
Please don't take any of these questions as criticism. I really appreciate your hard work and talent, and am just trying to learn.
Take care,
Brian
I'm assuming you made the new handle with the hole/slot offset for the stem so that it closes when you push the rod forward. Ball valve handles are usually aligned so that when they are parallel to the valve body the valve is open. Yours just appears closed in your photo and pushing the rod forward would appear to open it. But as I say you must have cut the opening in your new valve so the ball sits properly aligned.
I don't see any swivel mechanism in your linkage. Are you expecting the rod to flex to allow for offset at the valve handle as you push it?
Also, did you slot the rod before brazing the extension?
Please don't take any of these questions as criticism. I really appreciate your hard work and talent, and am just trying to learn.
Take care,
Brian
-
- Posts: 1566
- Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 10:15 am
- Location: Tennessee, USA
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
a 1/4" diameter SS throttle rod that is probably 14 or 15" long at minimum will easily bend enough to go through a 1/4 turn sweep. It's the way that all of my throttle valves are set up and some of them have worked for years. I've seen some that were this way for 35+ years and there wasn't a problem with that part when they were torn down.
Re: Rebuilding the Central of Georgia #408
The slot in the new handle is at a different angle than the handle that comes with it. When the rod is in the forward position the valve is fully closed. Pulling the rod 90deg counter clockwise towards the backhead opens it fully.makinsmoke wrote:I'm assuming you made the new handle with the hole/slot offset for the stem so that it closes when you push the rod forward. Ball valve handles are usually aligned so that when they are parallel to the valve body the valve is open. Yours just appears closed in your photo and pushing the rod forward would appear to open it. But as I say you must have cut the opening in your new valve so the ball sits properly aligned.
A swivel is not necessary because the flex in the rod is minimal. Once the ball valve wears a bit it's probably non-existent. I made my mogul throttle valve exactly the same and it has worked perfectly so far with the exception of me adding a quadrant to it. Once it wore a bit it became loose enough that the boiler pressure could push the rod out the packing gland -- and opening the throttle!makinsmoke wrote:I don't see any swivel mechanism in your linkage. Are you expecting the rod to flex to allow for offset at the valve handle as you push it?
Yes, there's a 1/16" slot in the end of the rod.makinsmoke wrote:Also, did you slot the rod before brazing the extension?
I don't mind at all! I share all this so people can see how I, personally, go about this madness and so folks can offer their own suggestions.makinsmoke wrote:Please don't take any of these questions as criticism. I really appreciate your hard work and talent, and am just trying to learn.