Restoring a modified Allen 2-4-0 barn find
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Re: Restoring a modified Allen 2-4-0 barn find
If someone quoted you $100 to $400 just to sandblast a tender tank, then they are trying to rip you off! I took the Allen tender I was working on to a local company and had it blasted for about $50 or so +tax. 2 reasons I did that: (1) so that I can see exactly what I had to work with and how much might need to be replaced (2) to prep the metal for primer, paint and sealers.
Re: Restoring a modified Allen 2-4-0 barn find
When I built the boiler for my mogul, the seamless pipe I started with was heavily rusted having sat outside for 10+ years. I used the electro method with great results. It's easy and requires almost zero effort.Pipescs wrote:Having used up a lot of money on chemical rust removers I eventually went the electrical route.
First of it really works, Works cheaply and every time.
- steamin10
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Re: Restoring a modified Allen 2-4-0 barn find
At the cost of a small pot blaster, and some sand outside by the drive, I cant see 2 - 300 dollars to blast a tender. I would be squeamish about a BIG commercial unit turned loose on such a fragile piece with an unknowing Gorilla getting my pride and joy cleaned. It could be cut to pieces in just seconds, rather than gently coaxed to clean with a toy unit.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
Re: Restoring a modified Allen 2-4-0 barn find
Although we all badmouth Harbor Freight, I bought the little cheep one they have and it worked wonders on the parts of the Rust Bucket. I use it with a small stand up compressor that has to catch up from time to time as it uses more air than it can pump continuously.I would be squeamish about a BIG commercial unit turned loose on such a fragile piece with an unknowing Gorilla getting my pride and joy cleaned. It could be cut to pieces in just seconds, rather than gently coaxed to clean with a toy unit.
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
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Re: Restoring a modified Allen 2-4-0 barn find
Hello,
If you are still thinking about sand blasting here is a company near you that has done work for some fellows I know who are building/maintaining 7 1/2" gage live steamers and are also building things in support of the V&T No. 1, Lion loco project. This is a full size replica. The company is:
AZUSA REFINISHING, Phone: 626-334-1516 They are in the San Gabriel Valley area.
Good Luck, Cary
If you are still thinking about sand blasting here is a company near you that has done work for some fellows I know who are building/maintaining 7 1/2" gage live steamers and are also building things in support of the V&T No. 1, Lion loco project. This is a full size replica. The company is:
AZUSA REFINISHING, Phone: 626-334-1516 They are in the San Gabriel Valley area.
Good Luck, Cary
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Re: Restoring a modified Allen 2-4-0 barn find
The 2-4-0 in the Pic Below and the one you are restoring are one and the same. Keep on Steamin' My Friend.
David
David
The 1" Scale Junkie ... But steam of all sizes is cool with me!!
"If you can dream it, you can do it" - Walt Disney
"If you can dream it, you can do it" - Walt Disney
Re: Restoring a modified Allen 2-4-0 barn find
I followed Pontiacguy1's suggestion and managed to disassemble the tender as much as I could. Because the first test went so well and the tank was now disassembled, I went down to Smart and Final and picked up 8 gallons of vinegar. The employee at the checkout stand asked me why I like vinegar so much. I told him it wasn't for eating, I was using it to remove rust from an old engine. He looked at me for a moment, then down at the vinegar, "I would say you're completely out of your mind but I would get in trouble."
The cardboard box the hydraulic lift from Harbor Freight came in fit the tender parts perfectly. I lined it with visqueen (painters plastic) then added bricks around the edges of the tank to fill the water level. The next day it came out looking great for about 10 minutes until flash rust began to appear. That wouldn't do, I went back to Google. The internet mentioned vinegar's acidic properties cause the flash rust and baking soda would balance the pH levels. So back in the vinegar the tank went and 24 hrs later I pulled it out and scrubbed it down with baking soda, hosed it down and immediately dried it off. Worked like a charm though there are a few hard to reach areas where I couldn't scrub with baking soda that flash rusted a bit. I can see why people prefer media blasting.
The rust ate through a small area. I'm deciding whether to rivet a plate over it as makinsmoke suggested or just try to fill it with auto body putty and hope the truckbed liner material reinforces it a little more.
Now I need to figure out how to attach the base back to the tank walls and build an interior frame to support weight..
The cardboard box the hydraulic lift from Harbor Freight came in fit the tender parts perfectly. I lined it with visqueen (painters plastic) then added bricks around the edges of the tank to fill the water level. The next day it came out looking great for about 10 minutes until flash rust began to appear. That wouldn't do, I went back to Google. The internet mentioned vinegar's acidic properties cause the flash rust and baking soda would balance the pH levels. So back in the vinegar the tank went and 24 hrs later I pulled it out and scrubbed it down with baking soda, hosed it down and immediately dried it off. Worked like a charm though there are a few hard to reach areas where I couldn't scrub with baking soda that flash rusted a bit. I can see why people prefer media blasting.
The rust ate through a small area. I'm deciding whether to rivet a plate over it as makinsmoke suggested or just try to fill it with auto body putty and hope the truckbed liner material reinforces it a little more.
Now I need to figure out how to attach the base back to the tank walls and build an interior frame to support weight..
Re: Restoring a modified Allen 2-4-0 barn find
Took the engine down to LALS for a much anticipated boiler inspection yesterday. Those who mentioned this was a great traveling engine weren't kidding.
Best news I've heard since buying the little engine: the boiler passed inspection! Boroscope test revealed very little scale on the steel walls and the copper flues look great. I imagine this engine didn't see much use before I found it.
There was however a sizable squawk list: there are plumbing leaks everywhere, the cylinder drain cocks are plugged, the two safeties are off by 25 psi, and the timing is off due to some rods completely loose. They suggested since the boiler jacket needs replacement, tearing it down and actually removing the boiler for easier access to repair and clean.
Best news I've heard since buying the little engine: the boiler passed inspection! Boroscope test revealed very little scale on the steel walls and the copper flues look great. I imagine this engine didn't see much use before I found it.
There was however a sizable squawk list: there are plumbing leaks everywhere, the cylinder drain cocks are plugged, the two safeties are off by 25 psi, and the timing is off due to some rods completely loose. They suggested since the boiler jacket needs replacement, tearing it down and actually removing the boiler for easier access to repair and clean.
Re: Restoring a modified Allen 2-4-0 barn find
You are a Lucky Duck.....There was however a sizable squawk list: there are plumbing leaks everywhere, the cylinder drain cocks are plugged, the two safeties are off by 25 psi, and the timing is off due to some rods completely loose.
These are the same problems I had with the American which had been under a set of stairs for 25 years.
I started with cleaning up and sealing the throttle leaks. I ended up buying new safeties. All the other little leaks and issues will work out one at a time. Lots of warm fuzzies in your near future as you clean it up.
I would not get too crazy and tear the whole thing into a pile of parts thinking of doing a total restoration until you get a chance to run it a little with the least amount of work.
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Re: Restoring a modified Allen 2-4-0 barn find
Just a thought for the forum.The rust ate through a small area. I'm deciding whether to rivet a plate over it as makinsmoke suggested or just try to fill it with auto body putty and hope the truckbed liner material reinforces it a little more.
Epoxy resin used in boating is waterproof (Not Polyester Resin).
Does anyone have any experience in lining a tender this way?
Also when doing the tender on the American, I worked with a company called Monsta-Liner (They started in NY and moved to Alabama).
In discussing with them the fact that a tender would always be damp when drained, they recommended their "Frame Saver" coatings over their bed liner products. It is billed as truly water proof and inhibits rust by sealing off the air.
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Re: Restoring a modified Allen 2-4-0 barn find
I don't believe it is the same engine. look at the details. (cab, domes, etc. )DJSteamer3017 wrote:The 2-4-0 in the Pic Below and the one you are restoring are one and the same. Keep on Steamin' My Friend.
David
I know at least two versions of this engine was build, the one pictured here is Arts and my brother and i ran the heck out of it at LALS in the 80's
I looked long and hard at this ad, cause it is was Arts, I would have bought it.
If it is not live steam. its not worth it.
Re: Restoring a modified Allen 2-4-0 barn find
I think you're right. Too many differences between the two.cbrew wrote:I don't believe it is the same engine. look at the details. (cab, domes, etc.)
I checked out the site and couldn't find Frame Saver. Is it a paint you use in lieu of the bed liner? Is this better than the epoxy based primer?Pipescs wrote:In discussing with them the fact that a tender would always be damp when drained, they recommended their "Frame Saver" coatings over their bed liner products. It is billed as truly water proof and inhibits rust by sealing off the air.
That makes sense. As much as I'd like to fix the cosmetic issues, I really want to get familiar with it's operation first. I'm sure that will help quite a bit when it comes to rebuilding further on down the road, however there is one issue that might possibly require a tear down. During the boiler hydro test the inspector noted the right side valve rod was loose as seen in this video.Pipescs wrote:I would not get too crazy and tear the whole thing into a pile of parts thinking of doing a total restoration until you get a chance to run it a little with the least amount of work.
Reaching under the boiler, I can feel the rod moving (I'm not sure the name of this rod...Eccentric rod?) inside of the lever connecting to the reverser/crankshaft assembly. The other end of the rod is welded to the lever connecting to the valve rod. There is also what appears to be a cotter pin fused to it as well. I'm stumped on this one. Perhaps they welded the other end too and it came loose? Doesn't help that there isn't much space to really get a good look either.