Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4

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Pipescs
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Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4

Post by Pipescs »

This last week I ordered material and tools to work on the brake assembly for the trailing truck. Mostly the Collets I would need and various steel. This all came from McMaster Carr out of Atlanta. It is nice to place an order on line prior to lunch one day, and get it the next day when you get home from work.

Another problem I am coming back to is a weak point in the frame. In the original Lyn design there is a bolt on, rear frame extension. I have greatly extended this piece and it causes an issue at the joint.

Six Bolt Joint
Six Bolt Joint


This joint slips no matter how much I tighten the bolts. So the nose and tail of the frame sag leaving the middle high. I have leveled it all up and am planning on drilling thru the center of each of the lap plates in two places down the middle. I will then ream and insert half inch, tapered dowel pins. To ensure they are locked forever I am going to try a recommended Loctite 603 Structural Adhesive and primer.
Tapered pins and reamer
Tapered pins and reamer

Cost about as much as liquid gold by the way.
Cost about as much as liquid gold by the way.
I believe the dowel pins and six bolts should lock the two plates permanently in place

To get ready for this, I am removing the rear frame for cleaning and painting along with the rear drivers and axles as I will need clearance room when I taper ream the four dowel pin holes.
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers


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Little Engines American
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Pipescs
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Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4

Post by Pipescs »

I should mention, that should all this fail the whole thing is going to the welding table.
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers


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Pipescs
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Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4

Post by Pipescs »

Most of the time in the shop tonight was removing the rear frame, disconnecting the Stevenson Link Gear, and dropping the rear Driver.

Once that was all accomplished I put the frame back together and used levels to square it all up with the frame tops parallel.

After bolting the parts together with a couple of bolts I drilled the holes on one side to a size large enough to start the tapered reamer.

I have taken them to a point a little more than half the pin length but as I have to grind the excess off, I am thinking of sinking them a little more and only grinding on the back side.
DSC_4930.jpg
DSC_4932.jpg
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers


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Pipescs
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Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4

Post by Pipescs »

The tapered pins in the frame joint worked out great. They are all ground to length and in place. I will be removing the rear frame section to be able to finish up mounting the rear coupler and other items so I will not fix them in place with Loctite 603 until I have finished up the details back there.

I have also been working on the brakes for the rear truck. Hope to get a few hours in today.
New Brake Hangers out of 1/8  X 1/2 CRS
New Brake Hangers out of 1/8 X 1/2 CRS
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers


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Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
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Pipescs
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Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4

Post by Pipescs »

This is not the way I am planning on hanging them but it was a good way to check the fit of the parts. There are no drawings at this stage as I am simply cutting to fit and hoping it all works when you pull the lever
Fitting up
Fitting up
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers


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Pipescs
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Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4

Post by Pipescs »

IN trying to put brakes on the Rust Bucket, I am using the Lucky 7 Drawings by Don Young. These drawings were in Live Steam Magazine back in the 1970 period
Drawings by Don Young
Drawings by Don Young
Drawings by Don Young
Drawings by Don Young
I have an issue that I brought on myself when I made the swing arms on the bolster longer. This was to allow more swing on the rear truck to deal with the smaller radius curves we have at our track verses the original that Don designed to.

My block is lower and will interfere with the brake rod that runs under it. I will be cutting the block away as Don shows in these drawings and trying a few other things.
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers


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Pipescs
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Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4

Post by Pipescs »

Still working it. I have all the parts to hang the brakes done. Next is the linkage to pull them together
Charlie Pipes
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Pipescs
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Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4

Post by Pipescs »

Yesterday was one of those nice days in the house were the yard got cut and I caught up on all the things that are running behind here. With everyone gone for the day after the work was finished I made it down to the shop. Of course I should have been at the club track day, so there is some guilt. Forgive me Scott.

I managed to start painting the brake hanger and brake shoe parts.

As I am starting the brake linkage parts I am concerned that the brake rod will be low on the track. I would like some advice here on how low this can be.
DSC_4955.jpg
Due to the extended swing link rods the bolster is lower to the ground than originally drawn by Mr. Young. So I removed a little from the bottom of the block. I realize now the rod will still impact the hinge points if I get it too high.
DSC_4961.jpg
I will be making a variation on some of the parts drawing for the Lucky 7 for the Linkage. Primarily these parts
Brake Lever Guide.JPG
Brake Beam Strut.JPG
Brake Lever Rod.JPG
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers


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Pipescs
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Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4

Post by Pipescs »

I drew this up in solid works as it is the next piece of the puzzle
Brake Lever Guide - Copy.JPG
I made this piece longer than the original as I want to bolt it to a ledge at each end to make it more rigid.

I had to lengthen it out to 5.5 inches
DSC_4964.jpg
The brake hanger may be a little too long and have to be shortened
DSC_4971.jpg
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers


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makinsmoke
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Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4

Post by makinsmoke »

Charlie,
Great work! Thanks for posting.

Some trucks have the actuating rod running over
the top of the truck bolster. I guess you just
lengthen the top portion of the levers?

Take care,
Brian
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Pipescs
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Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4

Post by Pipescs »

I had not thought of this. Let me look at it...
Charlie Pipes
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makinsmoke
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Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4

Post by makinsmoke »

Hi Charlie,
One of the arrangements (modern?) has the actuating lever connector running through the bolster. The main rod runs over the bolster.
I believe this is the arrangement on the Santa Fe
caboose 2259 in Bartlesville, Oklahoma with ASF
A-3 Ride Control trucks.

Here's a very informative site:
http://techinfo.wabtec.com/DataFiles/Le ... P-2008.pdf

Take care,
Brian
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