Brake shoe material

[10 Wheeler Rob]

I need to make some brake shoes for use on cast iron wheels. What is a good material to use?

Rob

[Pontiacguy1]

Bronze works well and will last quite a long time.

[dash9]

Buy a set of new disc pads, Use a band saw to cut the lining from the metal backing plate. Then you can cut the brake lining to what ever profile you like with a saber saw or a router , and use Jb weld to put it on the arm for the brakes. None of the brakes today are asbestos. Should cost less than 20.00 and you will have enough brake shoes for 100 trucks.

[Tom Miller]

I bought brake lining material from McMaster Carr. It comes in several thicknesses and widths. You can glue the material to the brake head with black locktite or 330 two part locktite.
Tom

[Chris Hollands]

I agree with Tom , that is what I did on my tender but I could not do it on the loco as the brake shoe spacing was very limited .

The material I used was commerical brake band like used on winch brakes , nasty stuff to use as it was in layed with brass strands .

[ccvstmr]

McMaster Carr also sells clutch lining material. Available in several thickness. Make sure the brake hanger can be retracted far enough for whatever thickness lining material will be used. Cut several slots in the brake shoe (1/8 to 1/4" apart) before applying the "brake pad". Gives the glue more surface area to grab hold. 5 minute epoxy works well. Don't mix more than needed for a few brake shoes. You won' t believe how much time it takes to apply the glue and secure before the glue sets. If you have something that's close to the wheel diameter...use that as a clamping block to hold the brake lining in place until the adhesive cures. Can cut with a shop knife, file or other if you need to trim off excess material. Carl B.

[10 Wheeler Rob]

Thanks for the replies. These are for brakes on a steam locomotive which will be sprayed down with cleaners, WD40 and get oil on the wheels. I think I will go with the bronze.

Rob

[Bill Shields]

if you think about it - aluminum is really a better material to use for brakes than bronze

Granted it may not last as long as bronze, but will work a lot better for stopping

[NP317]

if you think about it - aluminum is really a better material to use for brakes than bronze

Granted it may not last as long as bronze, but will work a lot better for stopping

True. Also, bronze on cast iron is considered an excellent bearing material pair.
Illustration:
I built my Allen Ten Wheeler using the included bronze brake shoes on the cast iron wheels. Loco braking was never very good, even after I equalized all the linkage. I eventually installed (JB Weld quick set) brake pad material from McMaster-Carr on all six brake shoes. The difference? The bronze shoes would slow the loco somewhat; the new pad material allows me to lock the wheels!
Now I have superior braking ability, and I need to apply the loco brakes more carefully.

I then installed the pad material on on ALL brake shoes on the tender and fuel car, and those vacuum brakes now have much greater braking effect.
The increased braking allows me to haul one addition passenger car, and still control train speed on down grades. Poor braking has always been the limitation on what the locomotive could haul. Very prototypical.
~RN

[Greg_Lewis]

Here ya go — Carl's solution: Brake lining from McMaster, thinned a bit on the belt sander and affixed with the greatest goop ever invented: JB Weld.

[Cary Stewart]

Just as an aside, one of our LALS members, in the 1970s, looked into the possibility of having WABCO make brake shoes in 1.5" scale from the actual material that 12" to the foot sizes used. He even went to WABCO'S home office for a consultation. It was doable but to get a price even close to reasonable he would have to buy thousands of them. So much for that idea.
Cary

[10 Wheeler Rob]

Hey all thanks for all the great info. I am going to fab some aluminum ones, since it is so easy to machine and if they do not have enough friction I will modify and glue on the brake material.

Rob