SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

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senorgilamonster
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by senorgilamonster »

I want to go to the Narrow Gauge meet this week end...so I ordered a go kart drum brake set up to arrive on Wednesday. I'm sure I will eventually replace it with an air activated system for better interchangeability with others rolling stock (maybe)., etc. But I don't have the time to build that kind of system out this week. I looked at the go kart and motorcycle calipers, but all I could find were 7" dia or larger and I am on 7" wheels in the loco, smaller on the rolling stock.
Pontiacguy1
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by Pontiacguy1 »

The go-kart drum brake will work well as long as you have a good lever length to get enough force to apply it properly. The problem with those is that they will rattle around, vibrate, and become quite annoying after a while. They usually work pretty quietly in the direction they were intended to go, but make a lot of noise in the other direction.
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cbrew
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by cbrew »

which motor controller did you go with? I ask, most have dynamic braking built in so all you really need is slow speed/parking brakes. the band style brakes may do the trick. but you may be able to turn the rotors down a bit also to get them to fit.
If it is not live steam. its not worth it.
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cbrew
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by cbrew »

then again, simple level system with hard wood shoes on the wheels have worked wonders for a few people i know.
If it is not live steam. its not worth it.
rkcarguy
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by rkcarguy »

I think you could activate the drum brake setup with an air cylinder, but I'd try a lever first, take a guess at how much force you need, and then you can do some simple math on the PSI vs. the bore of the air cylinder to assure you have enough force.
I'm on the fence regarding noise, because real trains squeal and clunk and squeak so I don't know if that would be a bad thing to me.
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senorgilamonster
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by senorgilamonster »

The drum brake arrives in a few hours - and I have decided I don't have a good way to mount it. MY last ditch attempt for this weeks meet:
1) Double header with the stretch Husky and throw the Husky into reverse to brake - bad idea. Actually it has a geared motor, so wouldn't need reverse.
2)Remove the super structure from the Husky and use the frame for an engineers car. install contact brake(s) directly against the 5" dia wheels operated via rods and linkage to a foot pedal. Pretty much like a straight air brake only foot powered instead of compressed air. A plus to this is that it will give me some experience for figuring out straight brakes for the real installation on all of my cars.

Biggest issues Du Jour - I can't get the new spool of wire to feed in the MIG welder and 2 of the bolts holding the steel Husky deck broke off.

Figuring out what to use for the 5" dia. brake shoe...
rkcarguy
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by rkcarguy »

Can you post a link to what you bought for the go kart brake setup?
I'd like to see what came with it and maybe get an idea of how to get you some brakes.
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senorgilamonster
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by senorgilamonster »

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005F ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005F ... UTF8&psc=1

The train style brakes seem to be going well so far. I bent the shoe by clamping a 1/8" x 1" bar into the vice and putting my back into it. Then I stick welded a scrap of angle onto that. cut a piece of 3/8" rod and slotted the end to fit over the angle. Drilled the slotted rod and the angle and passed a screw through that. Currently drilling a 1/2" hole through the frame (of the Husky - which will be a brake slug).

Then a 3/8" rod will pass through both sides o the frame. An actuating lever gets welded onto the outside of the rod and connect to the slotted push rod. Finally I'll attach another lever to the shaft in the center of the frame.

I just have't figured out the brake hanger part yet.
.
rkcarguy
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by rkcarguy »

Oh ok, yeah if you didn't get the hub for the drum for your axle size you're out of luck.
I think making some shoes/levers is the right idea at this point.
You actually got me thinking and I spent some time in CAD during lunch, and came up with a "shoe kit" I can have cut from plate and formed for my rolling stock. Instead of having the brakes apply to the wheel, I'm going to add one ring of 4" pipe to the back of one wheel on each wheel-set and have the shoes push out in pairs between them on a plate that will weld to the bolster. Now just to find brake lining material that is flexible to a 4-1/2" diameter drum.
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senorgilamonster
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by senorgilamonster »

I can fashion a hub, that wasn't the problem. it was where to mount the pins.

so far:
Attachments
brake1.jpg
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Harlock
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by Harlock »

I'll echo Chris Brew's question, what controller are you using? Any good modern controller will have regenerative braking which should stop it on a dime just by turning the throttle down. the more powerful the motor and controller, the more powerful the braking effect as well. the only thing I use the manual brakes for is as a parking brake and emergency brake if the motor / controller fails.

Best,

-Mike
Live Steam Photography and more - gallery.mikemassee.com
Product Development and E-Commerce, Allen Models of Nevada
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senorgilamonster
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Re: SP NG Diesel #1 (GE 50T) - Triennial or Bust

Post by senorgilamonster »

BUST: After attending the Narrow Gauge meet - I won't be going to the Triennial. I cancelled my TM membership, my all meets pass, and my Triennial registration. I will never set foot on TM again.

After I had a motor wire fail, there was not a soldering iron on the premises to be found. Failing that I asked who to talk to about getting my consist back up the hill and was told "go buy a C-130 and fly it out yourself". No laugh, no laugh from the NG meet group, just silence followed by a return to their discussion. I had to disassemble the loco and cars into 80-120 pound pieces and ferry them down the hill on my flatcar to a place where I could carry them over to my trailer.

yes, the controller brakes did work.
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