Shop smith 10er verital mill conversion

Discussion on all milling machines vertical & horizontal, including but not limited to Bridgeports, Hardinge, South Bend, Clausing, Van Norman, including imports.

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Bill C
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Re: Shop smith 10er verital mill conversion

Post by Bill C »

Hi Shelby,

I just saw your post and thought I could help since I have “been there and done that.” I converted a 10ER to a light duty mill back in 2004. I made some projects with it and had some fun. Here is a link to a write up I did back then:

http://boyerfour.com/metal/mymill/Model ... ersion.pdf

The other comments are correct, though. The machine will do some work but it is not a permanent solution. I ended finding a forlorn 1968 Bridgeport sitting outside a local machine shop. They were closing down and I got it for a song. Spent 5 months and some good money rebuilding it, but it was worth it. The old Shopsmith is now a standby drill press.

A lot of things depend on what you want to make with the machine. Depending on where you live, you may find some great deals on Craigslist.

Good luck and be safe!

Bill
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neanderman
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Re: Shop smith 10er verital mill conversion

Post by neanderman »

Harold_V wrote: Tue Nov 27, 2018 4:04 am Reminds me of the number of people who attempt to use a common drill press as a milling machine. Can't deny that they achieve some level of success, but I know of no one who is happy with the results. Again, a lack of proper design and rigidity assure they won't be.
BTDT. I managed to do some things with aluminum, but steel was pretty much out of the question. Same goes for the Atlas lathe.

You can learn some basic things with less than ideal machines, but if you're serious, invest in the right equipment.
Ed

LeBlond Dual Drive, 15x30
US-Burke Millrite MVI
Atlas 618
Files, snips and cold chisels

Proud denizen of the former "Machine Tool Capitol of the World"
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Harold_V
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Re: Shop smith 10er verital mill conversion

Post by Harold_V »

neanderman wrote: Thu Dec 20, 2018 2:40 pm You can learn some basic things with less than ideal machines, but if you're serious, invest in the right equipment.
That's really what it's all about. Proper equipment permits metal removal at rates that are acceptable, and, typically, with some degree of precision.
Those who don't understand machining will often detail how they "aren't in a hurry", that they are not concerned if a machine isn't capable of taking a cut. That may be true for the guy who is truly in no hurry and is mesmerized by endlessly watching a shallow cut, but try turning a piece of 2" (or larger) stock down to a desired dimension, taking cuts no greater than a few thou with each pass, then tell me how happy you'd be with the equipment when it takes a couple hours or more to accomplish the task, with a compromised degree of precision, when the same thing could be accomplished with a reasonable machine in just a couple minutes, and with acceptable precision. Now multiply that by the number of pieces you hope to machine.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
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NP317
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Re: Shop smith 10er verital mill conversion

Post by NP317 »

Maybe my Craftsman 12-36 lathe was more rigid than most, but I've done some pretty herky machining on it, although slowly.
Sharp tooling is a must, especially for steel.
So many things are possible, even with less than optimal equipment.
~RN
Smokebox3-small.jpg
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Harold_V
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Re: Shop smith 10er verital mill conversion

Post by Harold_V »

Nice setup!
I suspect that your lathe isn't anything special (as compared to other similar machines), but it is a lathe, intended to be a lathe. That's quite different from a kludged up setup that wasn't supposed to be one, which was my point.

When I was a kid (14), I purchased a new model 109 Craftsman lathe. The one with the ½"-20 threaded spindle. It was less than a decent machine, but it was a lathe. If one worked within the envelope, and with a little luck (no calibrated dials on those machines), you could do some respectable work. What you have is far and away better.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
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NP317
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Re: Shop smith 10er verital mill conversion

Post by NP317 »

Thanks Harold.

As pictured, I was able to use the stock Craftsman. As a lathe. That cylinder pictured is the steel smokebox for my Mikado. 8+ inch diameter.
Truing the ends to length was quite possible.

I have happily replaced that Craftsman lathe with a modern heavy 14-40 lathe.
A China-built machine, but far more rigid and capable than the old Craftsman. A Graziano or Hardinge (my true desires) were above my retired pay grade!
Gotta make chips! And curls... However we can.

~RN
spro
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Re: Shop smith 10er verital mill conversion

Post by spro »

I still appreciate Bill C 's link because he did a Lot of engineering and work to make the 10er into a light vertical mill. I am impressed about the improvements and stability. These are things which we don't do because we have more cash or flat running out of time. However, that ingenuity sticks with a person and it useful later. I'll bet that the Shop smith 10er is super drill press now.
Mr Ron
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Re: Shop smith 10er verital mill conversion

Post by Mr Ron »

Harold_V wrote: Fri Dec 21, 2018 4:26 am Nice setup!
I suspect that your lathe isn't anything special (as compared to other similar machines), but it is a lathe, intended to be a lathe. That's quite different from a kludged up setup that wasn't supposed to be one, which was my point.

When I was a kid (14), I purchased a new model 109 Craftsman lathe. The one with the ½"-20 threaded spindle. It was less than a decent machine, but it was a lathe. If one worked within the envelope, and with a little luck (no calibrated dials on those machines), you could do some respectable work. What you have is far and away better.

H
I too had a Craftsman 6" lathe around the same age as you; mine was a Dunlap. The ways were not parallel and the first time I ran the carriage, it seized and the banjo broke. I tried to thermit weld it back together, but it didn't work, so that was the end of that lathe. It only cost around $50 back in 1952.
Mr.Ron from South Mississippi
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Harold_V
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Re: Shop smith 10er verital mill conversion

Post by Harold_V »

Yep! That's what I paid for mine, too. I bought other items, including two sets of drills and a motor (not included with the lathe), a book on how to run the lathe, and tool bits. I spent a grand total of about $180, which was a huge sum of money for the kid who was washing dishes for 50¢/hour at a restaurant during the evening. Mine ran fine---but it didn't take too long for me to bend the spindle. Extremely fragile, what with the 0 Morse taper inside the ½" spindle.

I don't regret buying the lathe, but it was truly a piece of junk, but having one helps one understand the difference between a machine capable of working, and one that is not. I had a lot of fun with mine, but wouldn't want another, not even as a gift.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
spro
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Re: Shop smith 10er verital mill conversion

Post by spro »

Remember it came with a nice stack of change gears..
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neanderman
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Re: Shop smith 10er verital mill conversion

Post by neanderman »

spro wrote: Sat Dec 22, 2018 6:55 pm Remember it came with a nice stack of change gears..
Yep. Still have the whole set that came with my dad's 618.
Ed

LeBlond Dual Drive, 15x30
US-Burke Millrite MVI
Atlas 618
Files, snips and cold chisels

Proud denizen of the former "Machine Tool Capitol of the World"
spro
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Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 11:04 pm
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Re: Shop smith 10er verital mill conversion

Post by spro »

So this is over? The Dunlap came with same gears which fit the Atlas 618. I detected a minor difference but people sell them Atlas gears. The hollow spindle needed a drawn up tapered spud or it would bend. Not going through that again. We can say miserable but these were learning curves which stick.
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