Enco/Gamet Boring Head

[leakysump]

Hi Alex, I see you have been successful enough in your searches to determine that yours is an Enco 222-1200. Mine has lost its Enco circular metal badge but underneath/behind where it used to be there is tiny engraving saying Made In France so I think it safe to assume it is an Enco. Could you let me know if mine is exactly the same as yours from my photos attached please? Kind regards, Adam

[asallwey]

Adam,

Your is almost the same. However I believe you have a higher grade unit because you seem to have the "stop" capability. That would be the horizontal slot and bolt in pic #2. At least I think that is what that part is/does.

I am not sure of how shank removal occurs, mine is R8 like my mill.

I suggest that you follow the speed recommendations of around 100 rpm. My Millrite's bottom is 250 and I really can't count the clicks reliably at that speed. So the couple of times I wanted to use that capability I made sure I was 'short' of the target depth, then advanced manually. Kind of a bummer but that's life. Otherwise the head is quite a piece of tooling.

Alex

[leakysump]

Alex, thanks for that. Do you have any idea what my model might be then if not the 222-1200? And do you have any sort of instruction manual?

[leakysump]

I can see from the underneath with the tool holder wound out to its widest position, that there is a thread in the hole into which the shank fits so I presume it can be detached and replaced with a different shank, but I have been wary of upsetting any complicated internal parts /springs/etc in investigating further ...

[johnfreese]

Yes, the shank can be removed. It is threaded into the top of the boring head.

[leakysump]

Thanks John, are there any retaining screws involved or is it simply a matter of carefully gripping head and twisting against gripped shank?

[4gsr]

I just recently purchased one of these heads that has a No. 5MT shank on it. Was able to hold it in the mill vise and applied some force using a 18" adjustable wrench on the tang and broke it loose. There was no set screw holding the shank in place. I notice the boring head uses right hand rotation only when facing off. It won't run in reverse. My question is, does anyone know if there is someone out there that sells shanks for these Enco-Gamet boring heads? Looking for one with a R-8 shank. Thanks,

[leakysump]

Thanks Ken, that is good to know that it is quite "simple" to remove. I have no idea where to find a supplier of R8 shafts, but I did see a good You Tube video that showed how the Wohlhaupter UPA ~(early) shafts could be turned in a lathe to reshape, so maybe you could be surprised that the Enco/Gamet shafts also are not as hard as they look? If your MT5 is too hard, then not too difficult to make one from scratch out of ChroMoly bar, especially because for a boring head truly perfect concentricity is not neccessary

[leakysump]

By the way, just in passing, the early Narex VHU boring&facing heads also have screw-in shafts that thus also do not enable reverse (anti-clockwise) rotation. Both the Enco/Gamet and Narex have to be manually rewound after auto-extension, unlike the Wohlhaupters

[4gsr]

Thanks for the reply. My shank is Hard as a rock. I'm sure it's case hard, I really don't want to mess with trying to anneal or temper to a lessor hardness. I'm eyeing a piece of 4140HT I have sitting here to make a new one from scratch. Just looking at other avenues before making one.

[4gsr]

By the way, just in passing, the early Narex VHU boring&facing heads also have screw-in shafts that thus also do not enable reverse (anti-clockwise) rotation. Both the Enco/Gamet and Narex have to be manually rewound after auto-extension, unlike the Wohlhaupters

Yeah, I have a couple of the Chandler Duplex boring heads. Those you can reverse and wind it back to center. If the shank is not tight, it could unscrew on you. If anyone is looking for parts or drawings for parts, I have reversed engineered some of the stuff on the Chandler heads.

[leakysump]

Yes