New Old Baldor Buffer
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
New Old Baldor Buffer
I finally resolved my buffer issues. I was on the verge of buying a Taiwan Jet with variable speed ($400), but I saw an 8" Baldor 332B with a shelf base on the web, not all that far away. Picked it up today.
It's 3/4 HP and 115V, so that's convenient. It came with a flap wheel which looks good and a 4" wheel. Not sure what that's all about. I didn't look at it closely. I figured maybe someone had been too cheap to replace an 8" wheel that had worn down to a nub, or maybe he used this big machine to push 4". I don't actually know if a wheel can wear down that much.
I took the wheels off and ran it. It doesn't seem to run completely vibration-free. Wondering if that's normal. It doesn't buzz or shake, but you can feel some motion when you put a finger on it. My Dayton feels about the same when it's running and when it's off.
It has some kind of industrial switch, in addition to the one on the machine itself. Can anyone tell me why I need that? I would expect it for 2 HP, but I didn't know they were used on motors this small.
I don't know what to do about the base. I do not believe it's stable enough as it is. I'd say it's a foot square at the bottom. I was thinking of getting two squares or rectangles of thick plywood and putting them together with wood glue to create a base maybe 1.75" thick. Then I could put a caster at each corner. Not sure how wide the base should be fore safety. I really do not want to screw it to the floor. I don't have that kind of room.
I always pick on old iron, but I secretly like it, IF it's something that isn't worn-out crap, and the price is okay. Think I did okay this time. This ran me $250. I think I could have done better, but I didn't want to be a jerk about it.
I am tempted to clean it up, but it has an inscription from a school system on it, and I like the history.
I was hoping to use a wire wheel on one side and a buffing wheel on the other, by default. I know I can change accessories, but I figured these would be the most useful things to keep on the buffer every day. Suggestions?
It's 3/4 HP and 115V, so that's convenient. It came with a flap wheel which looks good and a 4" wheel. Not sure what that's all about. I didn't look at it closely. I figured maybe someone had been too cheap to replace an 8" wheel that had worn down to a nub, or maybe he used this big machine to push 4". I don't actually know if a wheel can wear down that much.
I took the wheels off and ran it. It doesn't seem to run completely vibration-free. Wondering if that's normal. It doesn't buzz or shake, but you can feel some motion when you put a finger on it. My Dayton feels about the same when it's running and when it's off.
It has some kind of industrial switch, in addition to the one on the machine itself. Can anyone tell me why I need that? I would expect it for 2 HP, but I didn't know they were used on motors this small.
I don't know what to do about the base. I do not believe it's stable enough as it is. I'd say it's a foot square at the bottom. I was thinking of getting two squares or rectangles of thick plywood and putting them together with wood glue to create a base maybe 1.75" thick. Then I could put a caster at each corner. Not sure how wide the base should be fore safety. I really do not want to screw it to the floor. I don't have that kind of room.
I always pick on old iron, but I secretly like it, IF it's something that isn't worn-out crap, and the price is okay. Think I did okay this time. This ran me $250. I think I could have done better, but I didn't want to be a jerk about it.
I am tempted to clean it up, but it has an inscription from a school system on it, and I like the history.
I was hoping to use a wire wheel on one side and a buffing wheel on the other, by default. I know I can change accessories, but I figured these would be the most useful things to keep on the buffer every day. Suggestions?
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: New Old Baldor Buffer
I need to get wheels for this thing, but I know what will happen. I'll order several 8" wheels, figuring they're all the same, and then someone will tell me the ones I got are garbage. So who makes the good ones?
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: New Old Baldor Buffer
Turns out the pedestal is a Baldor GA14, and they retail for over $200. Feeling better every minute.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
Re: New Old Baldor Buffer
The second switch may be a motor starter with heaters (the one in the picture). It's purpose is to protect the motor, which a circuit breaker won't do. There's some guys on the board who know so much more about motors than I do--maybe they'll address the deal.
As far as vibration goes, it might not hurt to check the shafts to see if they run true. Doesn't take much off center to introduce a little vibration. Bearings, too. Could be a bearing has failed. Does it make any unusual noise? Any movement of the shaft when you push on it?
Put an indicator on it. Eyes can't see less than .003".
Nice setup!
H
As far as vibration goes, it might not hurt to check the shafts to see if they run true. Doesn't take much off center to introduce a little vibration. Bearings, too. Could be a bearing has failed. Does it make any unusual noise? Any movement of the shaft when you push on it?
Put an indicator on it. Eyes can't see less than .003".
Nice setup!
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: New Old Baldor Buffer
Nice. And at $250, I only wish I could have beat you there... Congrats.
Regarding wheels, I'm no expert by any means, but yes, there is a bit to know/learn there, certainly far beyond what I do know to tell.
Regarding wheels, I'm no expert by any means, but yes, there is a bit to know/learn there, certainly far beyond what I do know to tell.
Russ
Master Floor Sweeper
Master Floor Sweeper
Re: New Old Baldor Buffer
If those long shafts aren't bent, you have a striking deal. I thought the rpm would be 3450 but it is reasonable 1800 rpm. One good wheel which doesn't need to be 8", Can be trued and further balance the motor. Looks like you can put most anything on it within reason. Yes it needs to be more sturdy than now. With those long shafts which become arbors, it will require more than a heavier plate below the motor. To me, it would be a time to insert two concrete fasteners, at least. Many are self drilling and you are left with rigid, threaded insert to bolt it or something else.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: New Old Baldor Buffer
The bearings don't squeal. The grinder just rumbles very subtly. I'll put an indicator on it.
I would be startled if somebody had managed to bend the heavy shaft. That would be impressive, as vandalism goes.
I would be startled if somebody had managed to bend the heavy shaft. That would be impressive, as vandalism goes.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: New Old Baldor Buffer
Thanks, Pete.
I found a great video on buffing. The Eastwood company made it.
It appears that I should get separate wheels for every abrasive, in order to avoid raking them when I change compounds. If I'm going to be changing wheels all the time, I might as well dedicate the left side to a wire wheel.
I found a great video on buffing. The Eastwood company made it.
It appears that I should get separate wheels for every abrasive, in order to avoid raking them when I change compounds. If I'm going to be changing wheels all the time, I might as well dedicate the left side to a wire wheel.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: New Old Baldor Buffer
The good news: an indicator sweeps over half a thousandth on the worst side of the buffer. The bad news: the bearings are not completely silent when I turn it by hand. Moderately bad news: the shafts are 3/4", and most wheels have 1/2" or 5/8" holes.
I think I need to splice a light onto this thing. I found a great Chinese gooseneck LED light on Amazon a while back.
I think I need to splice a light onto this thing. I found a great Chinese gooseneck LED light on Amazon a while back.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: New Old Baldor Buffer
Okay, I just found out how hard it is to get wheels that fit. Bearings are another story. It appears that I can get 6206 NSK bearings for under $7 each.
Not quite sure how to install new bearings. I have a hydraulic press, but I would have to yank the guts out of the buffer and find a way to hold everything on the plates.
Not quite sure how to install new bearings. I have a hydraulic press, but I would have to yank the guts out of the buffer and find a way to hold everything on the plates.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: New Old Baldor Buffer
The wheels are on the way from Caswell. Great resource for a person with 3/4" arbors. I also ordered bearings.
It appears that to be safe with a bearing puller, I would need a reach of 8", which will fit bearings up to 2.5" in diameter. I don't see anything like that online. Maybe I'll just have to use the press.
It appears that to be safe with a bearing puller, I would need a reach of 8", which will fit bearings up to 2.5" in diameter. I don't see anything like that online. Maybe I'll just have to use the press.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.