Water cooling a 12HP air cooled motor

[spro]

This is one of the coolest builds I've seen. Certain techniques which do work and not lost.

[Inspector]

Good pun spro. I agree too.
Pete

[liveaboard]

I got the last of the parts; copper bar for the connections, allen screws for the pulleys, 500A main fuse, and some brass nuts + bolts.
Just in time to ship it out to the boat with the 1965 Mercedes diesel engine I rebuilt over the summer.
The shipper should have picked up Friday, but the driver went to the another town with a similar name [again] 40 miles from here.
I realize now; the driver can't read.

All connected, British made 240A reverse relay and US made electronic speed control box.
I put heat shrink tube around the copper bars.
I got 48v continuous duty coils for the reversing relay from the manufacturer in the UK, but since I'll be testing the thing on 24V before buying the 48v battery set, I left the 12v coils on in for now.

The assembled motor unit weighs around 60kg [132 lbs]

I made the crate from a dead pine tree I cut from my forest. No trees were killed to make this box.
Yes, It has sides.
A tall narrow crate is cheaper to ship than a wide low one. They go by floor space.
Extra weight doesn't add any cost until 350kg [around 800lbs.]

Truck should come for it tomorrow [Monday].

[spro]

It is one thing to use the word "astounded" much or even "amazed" . I think we ponder these words when seeing your work. The insulated straps remind be of UPS's and other emergency power equipment. Please tell me that you used some dielectric grease at the connections. This stuff isn't going to reach out and cause a short but it prevents the white/ green corrosive elements which develop in many environments, electrolysis.
Your shipping container is also very nice. I hope it all arrives well. Salutes!

[SteveHGraham]

Amazing work. You should make a video of the boat in motion.

[NP317]

Ten points!
You have my respect.
RN

[liveaboard]

I didn't think of greasing the connections; it's a good idea.
I'm not sure what dielectric grease is though, other than expensive.
Back in the stone age when I worked in a garage, we used white lithium grease for that; but when I google lithium grease, I only get results regarding lubrication properties.
I've used some newer expensive stuff on car connectors, it doesn't conduct electricity. I think it's just thin enough to squeeze out of the way, while filling gaps where corrosive nasty air would otherwise exist.
Searching for dielectric grease, I see silicone grease being sold for that, as well as a lot of other products.
I have some lithium grease, and some 'white grease' spray. Maybe I'll pack them in the box real quick.

[spro]

The expensive stuff used on car/ battery terminals. I thought using Any grease on battery terminals and buss bars was bogus and counter productive but I learned. I maintained huge battery strings and power regeneration units for a time. It was "mandatory" to use to use that grease between high amp connections and this was in climate controlled areas. It came in cans because we used a lot.
I think the wrong grease is worse than none. I think/ know you are right about how it works. A positive connection is established through the grease which fills the minor voids. Those voids would grow an electrolysis due to the current and any humidity.
I bought a tube which would be plenty and of course I can't locate it now. dang.
Others know more about which ones are applicable.

[John Hasler]

Dielectric grease is silicone grease. Given your marine environment I would seriously consider redoing the connections with it. Any grease is better than none, but proper dielectric grease specified for marine use would be best.

http://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_v ... grease.htm

[SteveHGraham]

My family had a yacht kept in saltwater. I didn't grease anything. I did spray some battery terminals and a few other items with terminal protector, but things I didn't spray were fine, except for some ridiculous steel washers some genius put on an alternator.

Your water shouldn't be all that salty. I wouldn't get obsessive about rust on dry components, to the point where lumps of grease made things unpleasant to work on.

Spraying and dripping water are a real danger, however.

[John Hasler]

No need for lumps of grease. Just wipe a thin layer onto the mating surfaces of each bolted connection. Rust is not the problem: everything but the controller terminals appears to be brass or copper.

What are the controller terminals made of?

[liveaboard]

That's a good article on the grease subject.
I had come across conflicting 'internet opinions', especially regarding heat sink grease.
One person wrote that copper grease is good, because it has copper in it and copper conducts heat.
No tests, no data at all. Just an assumption posted as fact [which is, I believe, erroneous].
Ok, I'll get some silicone grease. It's expensive, but not as expensive as 'dielectric' grease in tiny tubes with big names.

The truck came and took the box away; I hope it doesn't get lost. It has months of work inside.