Removing End Of Broken Pipe From Pressure Pot Manifold

[pollys1dad]

After receiving advice on the forum, thanks I bought a set of nipple extractors. Using a butane torch to free up the Loctite stuff. I'm wondering how the paint might react with the heat? If powder coated I have a feeling, it will pretty much stay put. If another finish might flake and bits fall into the 120 grit, which I think should be avoided if poss.
So should I fit the nipple extractor into the end of pipe, then heat up, would perhaps expand the extractor making a tighter fit but could also expand the end of the pipe making harder to get out? I'm thinking of a 10 second burst with the torch, which I've used to get other fittings off, is 10 seconds too long?
Please advise.
Cheers.

[liveaboard]

You'll burn the paint for sure before it gets hot enough in there where the threads are.
I would turn a piece of steel rod so it could be slid in and then welded to the inside of the broken part.
Then be prepared to apply torque and remove it while it's still hot.

Or; weld around a little on the inside just to heat it, then use your extractor.

[warmstrong1955]

I would try it without heating it first.
If it doesn't go, remove the easy-out, heat it up from the inside, and try again.

Bill

[choprboy]

I agree with warm, I would try first without heating. Also, you can try drilling out the core with slightly larger than the pipe bore sized drills to thin out the thread profile. This will release compression in the stuck piece and make it easier to remove.

If you really want to heat and don't want to burn the paint... if you have a TIG welder and can get a good ground, you can TIG heat the stuck bit of pipe, low amperage, enough to heat the part but not melt it.

[pollys1dad]

OK thanks, will try without heat first.

[pollys1dad]

I would try it without heating it first.
If it doesn't go, remove the easy-out, heat it up from the inside, and try again.

Bill

" f it doesn't go, remove the easy-out, heat it up from the inside, and try again. " I suppose I could also try really heating the easy out up, then screwing into the thread, and hot easy out would transfer heat to the threads and any seal lock and release the seal? Will try no heat first, other method would prevent damaging paint.

[warmstrong1955]

Not sure what type of thread locker was put on your pipe, but Loctite Red needs about 250C.
If you get the tool hot enough to transfer enough heat to go transfer from the tool to the pipe, you may damage the temper of the tool.

Bill

[liveaboard]

Stick weld on the inside; messy, smoky, ugly, HOT, it will work.
fast.

[Inspector]

A couple times when I had no other choice I ground out part of the pipe just enough to get to the threads with a rotary file and a sandpaper cartridge roll. Then picked out the bits left in the thread.

Pete

[Glenn Brooks]

If I remember correctly, powder coat melts at around 450*f. However you can sand and smooth out the melted finish and touch it up with lacquer of the same color. Most powder coating places, or suppliers can provide color chips to match, and small aerosol cans to the exact same color matching. Last summer I needed to cut out a bit of rusted sheet metal on my powder coated tender and this process restored the finish quote well.

Glenn

[pollys1dad]

Not sure what type of thread locker was put on your pipe, but Loctite Red needs about 250C.
If you get the tool hot enough to transfer enough heat to go transfer from the tool to the pipe, you may damage the temper of the tool.

Bill

Point taken, thanks.

[pollys1dad]

Thanks everyone, I'll try cold first and will update results over the weekend.