Frozen Flange Adaptor???

ThomG · Post by **ThomG** » Tue Dec 20, 2005 6:15 pm

Wasn't very successful on my first posting, so thought I would try again. I've had a seldom used Maximat 7 for 10 years. A few days ago I attempted to unsrew the the flanged adaptor with its attached 3 jaw chuck, to use the chuck on my dividing head. Loosened the collar clamp but could not back the flange off the spindle's threaded nose. Blue Ridge assured me that the threads were R hand, held the headstock end of the spindle with a long nail punch through the holes in the spindle and with a piece of bar stock in the chuck jaws attempted to turn, but only succeeded in breaking the 3/16" punch. Soaked the spindle nose and flange with penetrating oil and finished the evening with a a half bottle of wine. Came back 36 hours later, shortened a 5mm allen wrench, backed out the 3 allen bolts holding the chuck to the flange and removed the chuck. Fitted a socket with attached handle inside the spindle nose and bolted the handle to the face of the adaptor. Used my last nail punch through the holes at the other end of spindle, attempted to unscrew again. The flange wouldn't budge but at least I didn't break the punch this time.

I'm stuck! Has anyone had a similar experience or any suggestions on how to get the *#@#* adaptor off the spindle?

Thanks-Tom-

PS: all metal surfaces are perfectly clean with no evidence of rust or corrosion.

mrb37211 · Post by **mrb37211** » Tue Dec 20, 2005 8:03 pm

Heat the mounting plate (not red hot, maybe with something like the electric heat guns used for heat shring insulation) stuff ice or dry ice into spindle socket...

Gool luck!

Charles

Victor_R · Post by **Victor_R** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 12:44 am

I agree with Charles about using heat. And also with it being a right hand thread simply because of the way the chuck must turn on a lathe (ccw). Were it left handed, it would be almost unusable because it would want to unscrew off the spindle in use. It may require a sharp blow to break loose. Try not to damage the bearings while doing so. (tough call)

If push comes to shove you could machine it off and buy or make a new adaptor plate. Use that as a last resort before damaging the machine.

Bill Shields · Post by **Bill Shields** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 12:35 pm

Don't forget the penetrating oil.....and let it soak...

DON'T put a lot of force on the thing, with back-gear engaged..good way to lose the spindle gears...and if all else fails...well, follow Victor's suggestion...making a new back-plate isn't all the difficult...unless you don't have a chuck on the lathe to hold things with......

You didn't put it on by running the spndle while holding the chuck...DID YOU?....also, when you mount the chuck in the future, be SURE there is no crud in the threads...this makes them hard to get off also.

Mike_W · Post by **Mike_W** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 3:28 pm

My worst stuck situation ever was a tapered arbor in an old brake drum lathe that had a draw bar to hold it. I removed the draw bar but the arbor would not budge. I had it soaking for weeks, tapping from the back side, etc. I finally got some dry ice and packed it around the arbor for about an hour. I had it under tension with a brake drum and the nut to hold the drum on. I then started warming up the spindle with a torch. In a few minutes, it came loose.

Mike_W · Post by **Mike_W** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 3:30 pm

This is the dry ice setup.

ThomG · Post by **ThomG** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:30 pm

Thanks Guys, Here's what I've done so far. The 1" nipple fits tightly over the spindle and the nail goes through the spindle's pin holes. I've applied as much torque as I feel comfortable with and I still can't budge the adaptor. So it's the suggested "fire and ice" trick next. How do you feel about draining the oil from the gear box and packing it and the spindle with dry ice before heating the plate?

Happy Holidays-Tom-

Mike_W · Post by **Mike_W** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 9:37 pm

Tom, a thought I had would be to use an air impact wrench if you could attach it to the plate. I had a grinder one time that I couldn't loosen the nut for a wheel on. The impact wrench took it right off.

ThomG · Post by **ThomG** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 9:44 pm

Mike, how would I attach the impact wrench to the adaptor?

Mike_W · Post by **Mike_W** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 10:16 pm

Maybe a plate with holes to match and a nut welded in the center or you could put the chuck back on and use a large enough piece of hex stock in the chuck.

ctardi · Post by **ctardi** » Thu Dec 22, 2005 12:02 am

Could you not do it the same way that ratchit is on there?

Bill Shields · Post by **Bill Shields** » Thu Dec 22, 2005 9:21 am

I would warm things with a smoke wrench first.

Use a temp-l-stick to be sure things aren't getting TOO hot....or use the old-fashioned method...spit on it, or get one of these 'heat sensors' at RadioShack for $29.99

I am not too sure that you will be able to get the spindle cold enough with dry ice to make as much difference as heating the plate....there isn't much hole there to pack the dry ice into....

Should pop off.....isn't on with loc-tite is it?

If that doesn't work, then turn the sucker off with a tool bit and get another....and be sure you put a bit of oil on the threads next time....

The Home Machinist!

Frozen Flange Adaptor???

Frozen Flange Adaptor???

sticky chuck

Stuck