Workpiece won't stay put on the milling table

Discussion on all milling machines vertical & horizontal, including but not limited to Bridgeports, Hardinge, South Bend, Clausing, Van Norman, including imports.

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Bill Shields

Problem Solution

Post by Bill Shields » Mon Apr 23, 2007 4:18 pm

You mean you fixed the problem without the use of duct tape?

Shazaam!!! :P

4catmom

Post by 4catmom » Mon Apr 23, 2007 5:03 pm

Bill, even I know that duct tape is reserved for aircraft (and spacecraft!) repairs!

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JimGlass
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Post by JimGlass » Mon Apr 23, 2007 6:59 pm

The lower left clamp, the rust colored one is clamping the corner of the workpiece like I described earlier. A big NO, NO. The clamp needs to contact the workpiece at the end. Does the 1-2-3 block serve a purpose. If not it is elevating the work making your set up even less rigid.

In my first pic, notice the clamp on the right has some light between the clamp and the workpiece except at the end of the clamp and shows what I mean by not clamping the corner of the workpiece. It is best to keep the clamps as level as possible without contacting the corner of the workpiece.
To much angle and the clamp can result in a bent stud.

I made a set of these clamps many years ago and use them often. They are made to be used with 1/4-20 studs and intended for smaller work doing layout and boring small holes. For larger work I use heavy clamps with 1/2-13 studs. Notice the set screw and swivel toe that is used to adjust the clamp to the best height. Step blocks can be purchased for this purpose.



Jim
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studs0002.jpg
Studs & Straps 2
studs0001.jpg
Studs & Strap Clamps 1
Tool & Die Maker/Electrician, Retired 2007

So much to learn and so little time.

www.outbackmachineshop.com

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JimGlass
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Post by JimGlass » Mon Apr 23, 2007 7:35 pm

Below is a layout fixture I made for spot drilling and boring work. The back edge of the fixure is set to Y "0" and the left edge is x "0" on my DRO. This allows be to use the edge finder only one time for multiple parts. The 1/4-20 studs are used with this fixture.

Image

Image
Jim
Tool & Die Maker/Electrician, Retired 2007

So much to learn and so little time.

www.outbackmachineshop.com

recoilless
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Post by recoilless » Fri Apr 27, 2007 12:43 pm

4cat: Is the bolt at the left in picture #2 a carraige bolt? I'm as guilty as the next guy of using what's laying around but that would not be my first choice. A stud w/nut and washer or some combination to give greater purchase area than the four corners on carraige bolt towards the strap clamp helps. My take
Twice of what you think you know is half of what you'll never know...

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Post by Harold_V » Fri Apr 27, 2007 10:15 pm

JimGlass wrote:Below is a layout fixture I made for spot drilling and boring work.
Very nice, Jim.

Funny, one of our (occasional) readers, a self taught machinist and friend, built something similar not too long ago. Very handy, I'm sure. I've always just made table setups. Makes me wonder how many hours I've wasted making them that could have been dedicated to building a similar fixture.

Harold

4catmom

Post by 4catmom » Sat Apr 28, 2007 7:53 am

I appreciate the additional ideas. And Jim, I didn't understand your point about clamping the corner at first, but do now from your picture. Thanks.

I like the fixture idea. However, since I seem to be stuck in an endless cycle of making tooling to make tooling to make tooling :x , I'll save the fixture idea for later. I have to make at least one locomotive part first!

Recoiless, the carriage bolt is really being used as a stud. The nut under the head is turned to tighten the clamp. But I understand your point.

Bill Shields

Fixtures

Post by Bill Shields » Sat Apr 28, 2007 11:33 am

4Cat:

What's wrong with making fixtures to make fixtures to make intermediate parts?

You are still young enough....EVENTUALLY you will get a part or 3 made..

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