HF 44142 - Need new crossfeed nut

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lodcomm
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HF 44142 - Need new crossfeed nut

Post by lodcomm »

Hey Folks,

Does anyone have any idea where I can get a replacement crossfeed nut (bronze/brass?) for my HF 44142 The threads on my nut have worn quite thin and it is causing excessive backlash- HF claims they will need to order one and could take weeks.. I went over to the grizzly site (G9729) and attempted to order one from them, but it appears that you can no longer order the replacement parts.. it simply wont place the item in your cart if you try to order from their parts page.

The grizzly parts diagram lists the nut as an "M15"

does anyone know what the actual thread and pitch of this nut is? possibly I could turn one, or have one cut for me locally.

the actual part in the grizzly catalog is part #725 on the following diagram:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G9729/parts/3

I am assuming this is the same thread/pitch as the nut on my HF44142
(the HF exploded parts diagram is nearly incomprehensible)


I've attached a couple of photos of the misbehaving nut - it's not really clear in the photos, but the threads within the nut are worn to almost paper thin (if you stick your finger inside to feel the threads they are almost sharp enough to cause a cut!

thanks!
Attachments
crossfeed_nut_1.jpg
crossfeed_nut.jpg
Jose Rivera
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Nut

Post by Jose Rivera »

The problem may be that they may use different pitch and type of threads from Grizzly.
Can you get any information from the HF machine manual.

If the Grizzly say M15 you machine may be different.

Looking at my metric threads chart I don't see M15, it goes from M15 to M16.

The M15 may be a configuration for Acme type threads.

Good luck, please don't take my advise serious, I am not very familiar with metric threads.

Sorry.
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lodcomm
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Post by lodcomm »

Unfortunately the HF manual does not give any kind of specification whatsoever. It is simply listed as crossfeed nut.

An interesting note: the part # (725) for the nut is the same in both the HF and Grizzly parts diagrams. The diagrams were clearly done seperately as the quality and readability of the grizzly is far superior.

this by no way proves to me the nut is identical, I was just taking a wishful stab at it being the same. (I have bought other parts from grizzly over the years for this lathe, and they have all *knock on wood* been perfect replacements.)

putting my digital calipers on the crossfeed screw I geat a reading of:

.782 inches or 19.82 mm

and my old starrett micrometer gives me .782

it is of course a square thread, and I unfortunately dont have a square or acme type set of thread gauges.

-todd
Last edited by lodcomm on Sun Mar 16, 2008 12:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
Jose Rivera
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Nut

Post by Jose Rivera »

Square and Acme are two different types of threads.

Square as the name say, is square, Acme threads have a 29 degree included angle thread form.

I suspect that they are Acme threads what you have if is for the cross-slide.

Now, most Chinese products are almost identical with just different names.
If that Grizzly nut is not to expensive may be cheaper than making one.

Give them a call. The home page may not take the order but a live person may or could give you advise.
Jose Rivera
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Make new

Post by Jose Rivera »

One thing to consider if making a new shaft.

McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/ has available precision Acme shafting and precision brass nuts.

Calculating the amount of advancement per turn you may be able to have a new screw and nut.

There would be some engineering involve calculating the pitch needed.

Just another option you may think about.
goodfellow
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Post by goodfellow »

I have the HF44142 -- and replaced many parts ordered from Grizzly (although I have not replaced the part in question). All my parts were an exact replacement for the HF machine, so I have no doubt that the part from Grizzly will match your HF 44142. For the price, it's a good deal and Grizzly will get it to you within a day or two.
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lodcomm
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Post by lodcomm »

Unfortunately Grizzly tells me the part is backordered until may 31..

HF says 6-8 weeks so I ordered 3 from HF at $6.00 each. And a replacement screw which was $10.00 or so.. something is causing the nut to wear excessively.

I guess I will have to try and get something spun up locally... *ouch*

maybe I can make a temporary nut out of babbit :)


thanks all for the input.

-t
Jose Rivera
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Nut

Post by Jose Rivera »

The nut on my lathe has a slack eliminating feature.

It is simple.

The nut has been sliced at about 1/4 of the full length, right angle to the hole.

In line with this slot there is a pointed set screw that will force that section away and in this way eliminating any play on the lead screw completely.

Wear on the nut and the screw will start allowing play, but one can drive that set screw point farther and remove the slack again until the nut will have to be replaced.

When I saw the pictures of your part, that fix came to mind.
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lodcomm
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Post by lodcomm »

Jose,

Can you elaborate a bit more on how your nut is split.. I think I get the general idea, but it would be great if I could see a picture or maybe a sketch of how that works.. I may be able to modify mine that way.

thanks a bunch!


-todd
Jose Rivera
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Split-nut

Post by Jose Rivera »

Looking at the picture, part 24 is the nut, held by screw 47 to the bottom of the crosslide.
The set screw 36 is the pointed adjusting screw.

Click on the picture to enlarge.
Attachments
Service Parts 21.jpg
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lodcomm
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Post by lodcomm »

Many thanks kind sir!

It may be possible to modify my worn out nut just like that so I can limp along until the 2 months pass and I get a new one!

thanks again..

-todd
mixdenny
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Post by mixdenny »

lodcomm wrote:
putting my digital calipers on the crossfeed screw I geat a reading of:

.782 inches or 19.82 mm

and my old starrett micrometer gives me .782

it is of course a square thread, and I unfortunately dont have a square or acme type set of thread gauges.

-todd

It is most likely a 20mm nominal leadscrew. Now, to get the pitch, all you need to know is how far it advances with each revolution of the crank, i.e., how is the dial marked?

Anyway, looks like the best bet is to just order parts like you did. The price is certainly low.

Dennis
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