The Home Machinist!

The appearance of the fracture surface in cast iron is unique. Broken cast iron pieces fit together without gaps.

They work quite nicely in a 3/4 collet. There are straight shank and MT shanks available. I have an MT3 shank. I don't know if MT2 is available. I have a 5/8" straight shank holder I don't use but is missing the spring and pilot.

Guess I should have noticed there were 2 more pages of replies before adding my 2 cents worth. Other contributors covered the issue nicely.

Shars also sells that kind of face mill. It is rather inexpensive. Another option is a lathe toolholder that hols them "sideways". You can get lead angle turning tools or chamferingg tools. Again Shars sells them.

I just learned it is possible to TIG weld cast iron using cast iron rod. Alternatively torch weld it with cast iron rod using flux. I have been torch welding it for years. In many cases Tig would have been easier. If it is cast iron preheat and postheat with slow cool are essential. On critical part...

I have a small chuck similar to yours. The major difference is that my scroll is retained by a snap ring instead of an interference fit retainer. You might consider cutting a groove in the body for a snap ring. It would simplify disassembly the next time you want to clean the scroll.

If the part were turned between centers it would not matter what sequence of cuts were taken. If the part is supported in the chuck only then the sequence should be smallest diameter first, then the successively larger diameters.

Using a twist drill to make holes in thin materials usually results in a 3 lobed hole. Step bits cut a perfectly round hole. Blair and Hougen sell multi tooth hole cutters. To get the correct clearance needed for the tubing being used may require the hole be cut undersized and reamed to diameter.

Check out the aluminum sheet in the hobby metals of a home improvement store. I think you will find it soft.

To get a rapid quench in water the water must be agitated or the part moved rapidly through the quench. If the part is held still and the quench is not agitate a layer of steam will form around the part which acts as an insulator.

I have removed a lot of broken pipe stubs using a hacksaw blade. Make 3 or 4 slits inside the pipe stub. Go deep enough to see the beginning of threads. Using a pointed punch, applied next to a slit,collapse the pipe stub. After that you should be able to back out the stub with needle nose pliers.

Last fall I went to the local Fastenal store. They had a sign static that they would only sell to business accounts.