The Home Machinist!

Hello My Friends Thank you Dan, I'm having a lot of fun making trinkets for the little Hudson. Here is a bit more concerning the sander casings. The ends were soldered together and then held up to the sand dome and boiler to have a look. Stay Brite solder was used for this. The rest will be assemble...

Hello My Friends Now that the dome is finished up it's time to start the sander casings. These enclosed the sanders and prevented them from freezing. First a die was made up to form the curved lip on the side that will fit against the boiler. 3/16" aluminum was use for the die and .020" brass was us...

Hello My Friends Thank you John. I have a couple different types of fire brick. One is about half an inch thick and has a very smooth surface. This is what was used to solder the trim pieces on. I also have some that is the size and shape of regular red construction brick, it has a fairly rough surf...

Hello My Friends
Thank you Asteamhead. But then your modeling always looks good too. Very good I must say!
Jack

Hello My Friends I have plenty of 3/4" scale sand, its called dust... :D Actually the sand dome will not be functional, no sand. Yes Barry used beach sand. The sand on the beach there was very fine, almost dust. Barry's sanders worked very good. But then all of his products were excellent. Jack

Then the center was cut out using a brand new 7/16" end mill. Now as the center was mostly removed, about .010" was left at the bottom to keep the delicate part from collapsing and being carried away by the end mill due to the force of the vise. The part is .125" thick so the cut was only .115" deep...

Hello My Friends Here is bit more concerning the sand dome. The sand dome lids consisted of a rim-lip casting that was welded to the sand dome and then the lid that fitted in it. For both, the turn, machine, slice and dice-silver solder method was used. First the ends of the rim casting were turned ...

Hello My Friends Thanks Russ. These are simple techniques that we can all use. The only way to get a feel for this is to actually do it. The more you do the better. I have made many domes over the years using these methods. The very first one was a bit of a challenge, but it was also a lot of fun as...

Now its time for careful fitting. The dome had a centerline marked on it with the Sharpie, also the base plate and boiler jacket. The dome was also lebeled front and back. That way after each trim session with the drum sander, it would go back on the base plate the same way. A flat spot was intentio...

Hello My Friends Why thank you FKreider, I appreciate your kind compliment. Well now that the side is joined to the top it's time to do a bit of metal finishing and trimming. The dome is a bit tall at this point, that was intentional, as it's easier to make it smaller than bigger. Its height was adj...

Now it's time to weld the seam. This is done with it snugly clamped around the form tool. First make sure the edges are carefully aligned tack it and then check the alignment again. It may need a couple taps with a hammer. Then fully weld the seam. A TIG welder was used here, but in the bad old days...

Hello My Friends Thanks Russ, this is something that may be useful. Now that the top portion is made it's time to start the sides. First a card stock pattern was made, using an old file folder. It was taped around the form tool and plunked down on the boiler. Then it was marked up using a Sharpie. D...