The Home Machinist!

you can us any O2 / C2H2 cylinder with mounted regulators...setting the pressures appropriately. The fittings on the tank end of the hoses should be the same. I have one of these things and honestly have not used it in decades...having converted to a small Sievert air / propane torch for the small s...

as much as I like and use the Loctite products, this is not really a place for them. If you were surface grinding to size....MAYBE, but milling -> I would use one of the suggestions from above...and as HV says - stay away from CRS...you want something stable. You might find ground to size HRS to be ...

I would drill the holes BEFORE bending...that way you know they are spaced correctly from the get go...and it is much easier to handle as a flat sheet. I would start at one end and work to the other end. yes the holes in the bent area are going to become somewhat elliptical, but a light redrill and ...

not sure willing to put up with that 'helper'....too much overhead required

I am a farmer that heats his house with coal so I can still get all the chemicals I want to kill what is needed so that the rest of the world can have the food I grow.

heating methods are in the eye of the beholder. I am with Dave and use my O2 / C2H2 for most everything including heating water...but.. if you don't know what you are doing with what Dave describes you end up with overheated solder and / or a puddle of metal sitting there looking at you....propane /...

When I first bought bricks, $1.5 was the going rate...but that was in a different century (actually a different MILLENIUM). if you go to McMaster-Carr and look up firebrick, they are around $10 each + shipping....granted they don't weigh much but at $30 for 6 delivered by Amazon...it's a reasonable ...

you can get the bricks CHEAP from a place that supports fireplaces / stoves. RUTLAND PRODUCTS firebricks => $30 for a set of 6 for many, +/- 0.01" is considered within tolerances..remember you are building a loco not a watch. to add to David's suggestion -> if you are going to add a piece of brass, ...

This is not totally limited to steel.

I am putting together the copper necessary to build a boiler for my current 1" project -> and it looks like the copper alone is going to cost me a ball park of $1000

just a heads up about DRO PROS

The ELECTRONICA kits they sell are from India (I have a friend that works for them) ->

Don't know about EASSON

looking at the castings for the apron...I suspect that we have sister / clones of the same machine.

It is a slick idea..but the question begs to be asked...

Doesn't the lathe have a mechanical power feed through the apron...using the same lead screw used for long axis feed / threading?

I have made them in a long stick...I think it is easier than one at a time. silver solder the rod to the flat part...holding in place with clamps and / or screws...either cut a half round out of the flat bar or make a flat on the rod set up in vise and mill in 'notches' between the ears as needed, t...