The Home Machinist!

Our local pharmacy doesn't let anyone inside; they made a quick inner door with a glass window and a slot to pass things through, customers have to stay outside. They told me best to phone in my order next time, they'll have it packed. This to minimize customers crowding together outside. That's fu...

Maybe it's so cheap because the OD and bore are metric ?

Steve, Yes you can mount them on their side with a caveat, most CNC style vises the jaw and the movable jaw mount are usually flush
or slightly proud of the base, shimming or a plate is needed for movement clearance.

Jim

I think based on the accoutrements that elewayne has a milling vice is in order along with some measuring tools. A digital caliper, machinists rulers, maybe a micrometer. For a milling vise I have a preference for the CNC style vises. Like this one for example, there are other brands with similar st...

spro, I'm dry eye sufferer too, if you haven't done so I find moisturizing eye drops very helpful, Systane Ultra is brand I use. I also use a eyewash especially since my shop is surrounded with wood workers and they habitually blow things off and take air showers at the end of the day. The eye wash ...

Your eyes are connected to the respiratory system via tear ducts, that's why you get a runny nose when you tear up.
So face shields are a way to prevent infection.

Lew, I think what you have is 1100 pure aluminum, artists sculpture armature wire is 1100 very easy to bend and pound flat.
McMaster's spec on it is 2500psi yield compared to 5052 at 47000psi and 3003's 21000psi.

Why not just get some un hardened steel balls, or anneal hardened ones and drill and tap on the lathe ? Thought of that, but gripping will mar the surface. I suppose the aluminum soft jaws would do the least damage, and if instead of boring the jaws, I cut a V or used a tool with a radius, it would...

What GlennW said, I did a bit vacuum bagging carbon fiber and the best cutting tool was tungsten carbide grit cutting wheels, but that has nothing to do with tapping. For tapping could you use threaded inserts instead ? They can be glued in with a structural epoxy, you would still have to drill for ...

Why not just get some un hardened steel balls, or anneal hardened ones
and drill and tap on the lathe ?

One issue I have with tigging aluminum is inside corner joints, I never seem to to be able to
keep the arc steady it jumps from one side to the other.
Lap and butt joints I did well with as long as I remembered to ease up on the pedal once the puddle formed

BadDog wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 03, 2020 8:44 pm

With the slot properly oriented and sized, it makes a sort of very primitive coring drill.

The slot would need to be just wide enough to straddle the broken embedded tip, and thus not stopped by the tip.

Ah-HA ! Now it makes sense.