The Home Machinist!

I've done some very small threading on a Sherline and it's actually more suited to it than something like an HLV. I bought two threading attachments so I could make up compound gearing for the fine threads. I used an opposed carbide rest for stability and could do a couple inches of threaded rod wit...

Might save things by going back to the past on fab methods. Cut the bushing blanks to length and face them in collets or chuck. Drill & ream. Put on taper mandrel between centers to finish OD. Still, AFAIK, Stuart stuff isn't cheap and the supplied metal should be larger than the finish part dim...

Most everybody uses the FEPA European Mesh System. This page is useful- https://www.fine-tools.com/G10019.html But, as above, there are lots of other variables. Then you have the seeded wheels that work well in production, but need a stouter grinder than the typical Harig or Boyar-Schultz many of us...

Not a clue how the geometry comes out, but the big Kinefac machines are impressive- http://www.kinefac.com/mc-300.html Note the size of the guy next to the machine, though they make little ones too. The process goes all the way down to watch sized parts- http://www.habegger-sa.com/english/produits_e...

The reason for buying a purpose-built motor is they're designed to operate with a VFD over a wide speed range. A lot of the surplus/treadmill stuff won't be as satisfactory, but as a dumpster-diving cheapskate myself, it's worth a try and might get the job done.

Go to Automation Direct and buy a purpose-built 3-phase motor and inexpensive VFD. You'll save in the long run.

I checked and the book I found useful was Precision Machine Design by Slocum. It's a full size brown book about an inch thick. If you can find an affordable copy, it's quite worth it if you enjoy this sort of thing. I've seen the Vogel book sell for as much as $1000 because it's hard to come by, but...

I don't know much about thread grinders but, correct me if I'm wrong, isn't the wheel size usually pretty large, like 10" or so? Or do they vary all over? So, if you thread mill on the lathe (or mill), the cutter is probably much smaller?

I'm familiar with the Moore books. I've got another good one but have to check at home for the exact title. Might be the Slocum Precision Machine Design book. Yes, my leadscrew and everything else, being make in 1947, is probably a larger source of error than anything else. Buried deep underground n...

Nice clamps! I often have to glue stuff and it's really handy to have a moderate temperature thermal adhesive that's not too difficult to remove. I keep a puck of all three varieties of this stuff around- https://aquabondtechnologies.com/home/ Only caution with any tape or adhesive is to take light ...

AFAIK, for the smallish single start threads we normally use, it's not of concern, save for the fussiest of fits in instrumentation applications. Where the error becomes significant are multi-start screws with significant thread depth compared to the diameter. The usual 3-wire formulas can give larg...

I've been wrong before... just ask my wife! But, I'm home now and can copy from page 34 of Vogel's book on V-disk tools like grinding wheels- "Screws generated by such tools have in common the fact that, in general, their surfaces do not contain any straight lines or any curves which could be c...