The Home Machinist!

I forged my lifting/pouring tongs from rebar and welded a couple of bits of an old cylinder (essentially pre-curved bar), then went to town heating and beating until they were a perfect fit around my crucible. My crucibles are only small, No4 I think. I pour them directly into moulds. They are this ...

Never, ever, Windows 10. If you can find an old PC, even up to 10 years old, it can be made to run pretty fast without all the windows bloatware. If you're running a new small multi-core laptop "emachine" netbook type thing, I would advise get rid of it and buy a 1,2, or max 4 core machine...

I've used Macs for several decades and have NEVER had a crash that damaged files. Never. That defies logic, but that's my truth. It doesn't defy logic. Mac use a journalling file system, and kernel that "backs up" everything you do, on a rolling basis of about 3 seconds. I would recommend...

Flame hardening would work. The way the katana was made was to encase the back of the blade in clay to retard heating and cooling, then the piece heated and quenched, the cuttng enge would cool quickly and gain hardness while the spine retained ductility. Same could be applied here, if you felt the ...

Ounce of prevention, pound of cure...

First aid kits usually come with "splinter probes" which are VF sharp, like the end of a hypodermic.

Hog out the middle with a straight cutter, then if you have the full size cutter plow it through (one side will be "climbing", the other conventional)
Or if your cutter is narrower than the overall, you'd do each side, preferably climb mlling for a good finish

RMin is right. However, there MAY be an option in print settings to "Reduce paper curl" which MAY leave your fuser cool enough to not wreck the paper. But you will be better served just getting laser-rated paper. Also, many lasers will not reproduce a true 2400dpi image, they're better for...

If it was cotton or hemp rope I'd say burn it out, but at this point I'd say you're limited to pulling the head. You could try, if there's enough tail, wrappng it around something you can then apply a bit of winding/leverage to. (Do not lever off cooling fins, if winding then flat across the top of ...

Very very cool!

Beautiful work, he could absolutely do that by himself (I would get bored after the third bolt though!)

A true craftsman.

Saws do have the clutch throwout screwed on. The drum is either on needle roller or a bush -It should lift off once the circlip is removed. For the throwout I will usually wedge a screwdriver across the flywheel fins (at the other end of the crank) (but any method to immobilise the crank will work- ...

It may be oily wood chips have packed the centrifugal clutch. Pull starting, then, can't overcome the friction when the brake is on. These 2 cycles have to go a few rotations to fire right, without resistance. This is closest to my guess. But if you let a saw get that filthy you don't deserve to ha...

You could mist with plain water which will save you breathing nasties and as said by others, keep the rest of your shop un-slimy. Blast the tool so it's not subject to thermal shock, and clears chips. Your best (cleanest) bet is to feed hard, so the heat leaves the piece with the swarf/chips. I ran ...