The Home Machinist!

For years I just punched a hole with a torch. There's no precision required here. Plasma would be even cleaner. I was doubtful when I saw my mentor do this, but it works just fine.

A lot of aluminum stock has that problem, and a lot of it isn't round. A lot of tubing has irregular wall-thickness too, and this from reputable dealers. You have to check the specs. As for collets, they're available in 1/64th increments. Gradually filling the gaps in your collection with imports at...

. . .I don't have a multimeter with capacitance setting, but keeping my eyes peeled for a good deal on one now. . . Most DMMs have a very limited range of capacitance measurement. Before you buy, make sure the one you intend to get can actually go all the way to 150uF. Was this motor running for yo...

Well, just how close to 1/2" do you need to be? And, what kind of slot finish is acceptable? Sounds to me like this might be some kind of fixture plate for your rotab. If so, fit and finish don't need to be perfect and you can save a lot of time and aggravation by using a 1/2" roughing cut...

How far do you need to move the holes? If it is 2/3 diameter or less, Bill (warmstrong1955) has the best suggestions. If it is more than that I would do as you said in your OP: thread the holes and make plugs to loctite in (make the plugs a very close fit and use the thin bearing mount or equivalent).

I too am delighted to hear from you! I wondered where you'd gone. Seems like you've had your share of troubles for a while, maybe things are looking up. I like the cannons! -- The detail is wonderful, but so small I'd have to use a microscope to attempt something like that. Very nice work.
Gordon

A bit of lockite on the threads will solve the problem of not being able to run in reverse. Heating the head can destroy the bond so you can later unscrew it if necessary. Careful, here. After thorough cleaning, using 'red' loctite and allowing full cure, the shank on my boring head came loose runn...

SteveM wrote:. . .Once you have them sharpened, though, you will have undersized tools. . .

I typically only need the end sharpened the first time around, thereby keeping the original dimension. Seems the corners & end edges go first 90% of the time.

I just use plated fasteners and anti-seize compound. Lasts for many years in a normal atmosphere. In the days of cadmium plating and lead-base anti-seize, it would last even longer.

Nah... you can 'what if' yourself into never doing anything. You checked it out, it works, enjoy it. The 'one small connection' failure mentioned above would likely be worse at full voltage/power because of the increased tendency to arc. Some motors draw excessive current at lower than specified vol...

It amuses me that so many of you have adamantly stated that motor vibration is always mechanical, never electrical. That, my friends, is simply not true. Single phase and three phase units each have a number of potential electrical problems which can cause rather high-intensity vibs.

7075 T-xx will cut just fine with your sabre saw and a hacksaw-like metal cutting blade. You'll need to make the cut with support close underneath the blade path and use WD-40 to help prevent dragging and keep the chips from clogging the teeth. A variable-speed saw on a slower stroke setting will ma...