The Home Machinist!

Seems every time I use my CNC I break an endmill. Only the small ones. I have 12L14 round that I wanted to run a 3/16, 4-flute, HSS endmill to trace around a shape, so it's making a channel and I got my mister on and manually brushing. I'm running 3ipm, 3500 rpm, and take a 5 thou DOC. Then again 10...

The internet didn't seem to have any images of these cups. This one is on the left side of the saddle, under the table, about 1/2" diameter. It does have a wick. It seems too far away to oil the right side saddle way. The same cup is on the right side of the spindle housing, and it does not hav...

That makes sense.

This is just roughed in. I have done a few parts since dressing. I mostly wanted to get rid of the surface rust/pickled look, and it was a couple thou to dust off the pitting. I was pleased at how it ground in as there were no heavy spots to note, nice and even. I have noticed a fresh dress does imp...

Just curious why the oil cups on my grinder are tapped ~1/3 down from the top, so only 1/3 of the oil can flow out of it?

There's two theories of surface grinding. As I have pretty much always been interested in surface finish quality, I don't subscribe to the one whereby one takes a shallow depth of cut but uses a large stepover of the wheel for each pass. Instead, my preferred method is to take a reasonable depth of...

Thanks for the info, Folks! I had found sopko. They list an adapter for the older grinder, and they list both LH and RH thread. So I think mine is LH and even though the adapter is a little smaller OD, it might work. Sorta like Harold said, it's work enough to get it right without having the machine...

The wheel hub adapter is Cat. No. 24-820. Not sure if that's the same as F320.

Large OD is 2-15/32, not sure of taper. Probably need to start with a wheel puller.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/27043.pdf

I would suggest that the bottom would be ground only once, and that would be BEFORE the top is ground. That way you grind the top parallel to the installation when built. I would use the magnet to hold the chuck to the machine table. That duplicates how it is applied when being used. It is unusual ...

So, when you grind your magnet in, you grind the table, then grind the magnet's bottom, with the magnet OFF. Because...

I think my magnet has an aluminum bottom. My experience with grinding aluminum is that it fouls the stone.

Well, I'm too cheap to buy coolant anyway, so I could drink the mist if I got too heated myself. Since I don't use my shop every day, or even every week, I got a hot shot sprayer with ATF and kero to keep the machines from rusting.

Those cool mist things seem to work ok. I bought a cheap one off ebay.