The Home Machinist!

I have a Quincy 325 and due to poor power supply (since corrected) I had to be able to unload the head but keep the motor running, or never be able to run anything else when the compressor started up. I plumbed in a D-2 air governor from a truck, cost $11. It lifts the valves in the head at 125psi a...

Done and turning.
It was relatively easy to assemble the motor to the pulley and not have to fight the weight of the whole motor. After that just pile the pieces together and snug the bolts.

I did some shopping on a chinese site and a collet chuck goes for 46 bucks so I can do that. Plus, was talking to my son, he works in a Mazak shop and he is on the lookout for a buggered tool holder that is being thrown out.

"make my own". Well part of it. I have some Sanvik tapping heads sitting around that I was thinking about selling. They are CATB #40 taper (QC knob comes off) but they are fairly long~ can't say the #40 turns into the size you need. How much for one? I would have to weld a plate onto it a...

Looking good, but one thing sends up a red flag for me. If your 3 jaw runs true (rarely do they), you're fine, but if you have runout, that will manifest itself in the pulleys when the motor is assembled. Won't amount to much, but it's worth considering. You'd have been better served holding in a c...

Further progress is happening. The motor shaft is exactly the right length, but too big, so I have machined it to 24mm. I decided, just on general principles, to replace the front motor bearing, even though the existing one is fine. I also wanted a 2RS type instead of shielded. So I checked the moto...

The face of the mill is machined and the register hole bored to 8.19" as it was manufactured. The motor I am working with has a C-face register of 8.19 inch. So I welded the ears on the outside as shown, which is used to hold the motor into the register of the head. Now the motor shaft is alrea...

Update. I have removed the motor, the bearings are almost seized. Too bad it is 600 volt, it would be simple to replace bearings. So at present I am adapting another motor to fit this machine, and this one is 220 volt. Then I will be using my existing VFD on it. I have been talking to tech support a...

Thanks for the replies. I am sure that I can figure out how to remove the motor based on this thread. I have the manual downloaded, it is available from many net sources. Pretty useless as disassembly info, but does show you what you are getting into. I am hoping it is just the motor as I plan to re...

Most variable speed heads use a reeves drive variable sheave setup. There are various details, but they all tend to be/get "rumbly" over time. Bridgeport J heads have bushings that wear and rebuild kits can improve things dramatically if you catch them before critical damage is done. I ha...

platypus20 wrote:Oh Canada!!

Hi Jack

I hope the folks who contributed to this thread are still active here as I have purchased a FTV-3 with a rumbling sound in the head. It sounds like it is in the motor area, so once I get that off, we will have to see if that is the issue by running it free. The sound does not vary with spindle speed...