The Home Machinist!

I just finished using an old Kenmore sewing machine that my brother in law gave me. Its from the early 60's, made in Japan. All cast metal, SS, maybe only two parts are actual plastic, and they are simply levers to remove the shuttle for the bobbin. They certainly do not make things like this anymo...

Getting back to the original question: My father turned a plug to fit the spindle taper in one of his lathes. He then drilled and tapped it probably 1/4-20 for an Allen screw with a lock nut for a depth stop. I get by with two nuts and two washers on the taper adapter that came with the lathe. Using...

Sometimes I'll shut the lathe off and end up with a straight line that isn't as deep or objectionable as an uneven spiral would be.

Good job on a problem solution John. I must be getting old. No one here has mentioned hub pullers. They were designed to be used on ancient automobiles and light trucks to pull hubs off of rear axles. The axle ends had a pretty long taper and the hubs were really on there. They’re rather clumsy to g...

I sure would like a bigger lathe. One that wouldn’t dim the neighbors’ lights more than half way. Heck one that had a ladder to get up onto the compound would be real cool. But we got what we got and gotta make do. If it doesn’t take way too much effort or hurt the machine, I’ll do it. Perhaps a lon...

A bushing or button is a very professional, elegant solution. For a one off with the noodlieness of such a small diameter piece of stock, the space between the rod and the far end of the spindle bore can be calked evenly enough with a rag to keep it from flopping around or bending. Repairing a forkl...

How 'bout pix of a shop that was judged to be too clean? It would give me something to shoot for.

And more on the trailer. "Inquiring minds like to know."

My old pedestal grinder has been that way for over 30 years. When it's running, it doesn't move end to end, even when working the side of a wheel. It hasn't changed noticeably over the years.

It has sleeve bearings.

The section of a 5c collet that grips is tapered like most or maybe all callets. The part behind that is more of a springy section allownig the collet to grip and release. It's thin and would belmouth the grip area if clamped in a chuck. A collet block may be the answer. http://www.wttool.com/index/...

Thought you were possibly being a little over critical till I saw the pic. Don't remember ever seeing a table that bad. Hard to believe no necks were wrung long before it got that out of hand.

What size column?

With a shaft that large, that must be a pretty good sized machine. Can you give some info on it, and maybe what you're modifying if that's the case?

This sight is a basket of machine nuts.

How to you plan to hold the tube during threading? Typical .22LR silencer tubes are 1" OD and centerfire are even bigger so none are going to fit through the headstock bore of that lathe. Not very familiar with supressors but, the bore of the chuck(s) aught to clear more than an inch. Allowabl...