1st Time Bluing

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Harold_V
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Location: Onalaska, WA USA

Re: 1st Time Bluing

Post by Harold_V »

Metalshaper wrote:Hal... have you tried to blue yet?? :wink:
Sigh!

Sorry to say, that is but one of many things I hope to explore when (if?) I ever get finished with the house building project that has dominated my time for several years.

What have I learned from this experience?

Machinists with a perfectionist attitude should not build their own houses.

Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Hal K
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Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2003 9:10 pm
Location: Sun City West, AZ

Re: 1st Time Bluing

Post by Hal K »

Jonathan and all,
All of my attempts on both flat & round parts end up splotchy. That is, a blend of light & dark areas that I've never seen on gun barrels. Could it perhaps be because it's on Cold Rolled Steel rather than what is used for gun barrels?

I have been very careful cleaning with acetone and using gloved hands, clean cloths and 4/0 steewool well-rinsed in acetone. I have not yet tried letting the pieces soak for a while in acetone as I just read someone mentioning in this string.

I first finished the CRS with the 220, 320, 400, 600, & 1500 waterproof sandpaper used by autobody workers. All the while being careful not to contaminate the work on the finer grits with particles from the just used coarser grits.

The overall dimensions of the largest piece having several thru holes and one slot are: 3" x
4 1/8" x 1".

Would appreciate any ideas on what I must be failing to do or doing wrong. Hal K
Metalshaper
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Location: KC area

Re: 1st Time Bluing

Post by Metalshaper »

Hal K,

Your high polish "may" be the culprit?? I've never taken a polish over 600grt and most things I can find, say not to go much over a 400grt finish? The theory some say, is by polishing out so fine.. you close off the pores and any finish is gonna have a hard time getting through! one source I just looked at< before I replied> said polish/buffing the part is the worst thing you could do...

Google "problems with Oxpho Blue" and this may give you some hints??? If all else fails.. Give the people at Brownells a shout and see what they say??

Try just putting the finish on with a clean swab only.. allow it to set following the directions and rub it clear. Put the next coats on the same way.. see if you can build the finish?? Sometimes maybe the steel wool won't help until closer to the end of the process, if at all??

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan


remember my parts were soft etched with a bead blast, rendering the surface clean and the pores 'open' for taking the blue??
Wayne Shaw
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Location: VA

Re: 1st Time Bluing

Post by Wayne Shaw »

May I step in and ask a question? I've used both the Brownells stuff, and for cold blue they do OK. I've never had success that matched a hot blue job though. Plus once the first application was made, additional applications didn't seem to get much darker.

But one thing I would like to ask. Even when cleaning the bejeebers out of the steel, cleaning with acetone, denatured alchohol, whatever, have you tried heating the part then?

If you take a propane torch and play the flame on the part, even when you think it's perfectly dry, you can see moisture evaporate away. I'm not taling hot to the point you can't hold it, but heat does seem to dry the part further and I would think open the pores some too.
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Harold_V
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Re: 1st Time Bluing

Post by Harold_V »

Wayne Shaw wrote:If you take a propane torch and play the flame on the part, even when you think it's perfectly dry, you can see moisture evaporate away. I'm not taling hot to the point you can't hold it, but heat does seem to dry the part further and I would think open the pores some too.
The moisture you speak of isn't coming from the metal, but is being condensed from the heat source on the (cool) metal. Water is a byproduct of combustion.

Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
masterg
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Re: 1st Time Bluing

Post by masterg »

I realize I am coming into this late, but maybe I can offer some advice to help.

Hal,
You haven't posted to say you fixed the problem. Maybe try this.

Last year there was an article posted in the periodical American Gunsmith about cold bluing using the Brownells product Oxpho-Blue. The author of the article described the process as follows:
First, ensure the part to be blued is free from grease/oil. He used Gunscrubber in the article.
Next, take some of the Oxpho-Blue creme and liberally cover the part to be blued. Use gloves. Make sure the part is covered well.
Next, let the part sit for at least 15 minutes, and up to an hour if desired. Make sure with the creme is covering the part.
Next, spray the part with Tri-Flow spray lubricant and rub the part in your fingers/hand. Don't forget the gloves. Make sure everything is "smeary." The Tri-Flow seems to drive the bluing into the metal and make it darker.
After rubbing for a few seconds, dry the part using shop towels.
Apply oil or more Tri-Flow to preserve the metal. I think this actually stops the bluing process.

I used this to restore the bluing on some buggered up screws on a customer's over and under shotgun. After filing/repairing the screw heads, this process restored the bluing on the screw heads to match the rest of the gun. It worked pretty well.
Give it a try.

Tim
barnes_gunworks
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Re: 1st Time Bluing

Post by barnes_gunworks »

also it helps if the part is warm, just heat it up to 150-200 F doesnt need to be exact, just opening up the pours of the metal, i usually take a heat gun and use that, this is done after degreasing and before applying the cold blue. i dont like acetone for degreasing, it seems to leave a film, i usually dont touch the part after final polish and it usually takes the blue.
to give the part a brushed look, you can use either green or gray scotch pads.
pm me if you have any questions.
johnathen
www.chaski.com
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