Making a chamber reamer
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Making a chamber reamer
Hi all, Hope the xmas and new year hang over has just about gone, but those guys at CNN need to check things! Auckland in Australia?? .
Ok, just got in to making my first chamber reamer, c a l 45-70-.450" on my lathe. It`s made of silver steel, like drill steel I think and just looking at the best way to harden it, oil or water quench?. This is for a barrel I have just drilled to .430" ID, is it best to rifle first or chamber first.? This is for a Sharps 45-70-.450" bore, yer I know sharps 45`s are all .456/8 bore, but this is the size my gun drill and reaming I can get to, . Cheers, Homebrew.357.
Ok, just got in to making my first chamber reamer, c a l 45-70-.450" on my lathe. It`s made of silver steel, like drill steel I think and just looking at the best way to harden it, oil or water quench?. This is for a barrel I have just drilled to .430" ID, is it best to rifle first or chamber first.? This is for a Sharps 45-70-.450" bore, yer I know sharps 45`s are all .456/8 bore, but this is the size my gun drill and reaming I can get to, . Cheers, Homebrew.357.
Last edited by homebrew .357 on Sat Jan 04, 2014 2:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Making a chamber reamer
The heat treat isn't something you choose---it's determined by the type of material you selected. Some are oil hardening, some are water hardening and some are air hardening. If in doubt, avoid water, as it may shatter the wrong material.
When you plunge the heated reamer, make sure it goes straight in from the end. If you quench from the side, pretty good chance you'll end up with a warped reamer.
Harold
When you plunge the heated reamer, make sure it goes straight in from the end. If you quench from the side, pretty good chance you'll end up with a warped reamer.
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
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Re: Making a chamber reamer
i am guessing you a a d style reamer ?? and yes the type of metal determines the hardening process as advised by harrold. if using oil wear gloves and have a cover ready in case flame becomes a issue
love to see pics of your efforts
love to see pics of your efforts
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Re: Making a chamber reamer
Hi, This is a six cutter reamer, as I used my rifling register to index and just shaved the flutes with the top slide and then cut the relief . I`m sure you are right, Silver steel needs to be heat treated in oil and tempered to straw.
Wish I could win lotto so I can buy a Mill ,this is going to be a long build, I have the plans for the Sharps Quigley 45-70-110 ,may have to buy in some parts. ,afew more pic`s ,Homebrew.357.
Wish I could win lotto so I can buy a Mill ,this is going to be a long build, I have the plans for the Sharps Quigley 45-70-110 ,may have to buy in some parts. ,afew more pic`s ,Homebrew.357.
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Re: Making a chamber reamer
congrats that is a interesting approach and a inspiration on getting things done by utilizing the tools you got
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Re: Making a chamber reamer
Hi, And thanks for your reply Harold and Hammermill and just to make sure I`M on the right track there`s reamers have a relief cut close up to the sharp cutting edge , how close to the edge , I`M at ( 0.034" ) back from it, is this ok or a bit more.
The barrel will have to be rifled before I ream it and looking at a twist of 1-20 /24, just need a 5 1/2" DIA small bike sprocket for my rifling gear head, it will turn faster for the quicker twist.
Hope you guy`s are keeping warm over there, here the sun is shining, great, Cheers, Homebrew.357.
The barrel will have to be rifled before I ream it and looking at a twist of 1-20 /24, just need a 5 1/2" DIA small bike sprocket for my rifling gear head, it will turn faster for the quicker twist.
Hope you guy`s are keeping warm over there, here the sun is shining, great, Cheers, Homebrew.357.
Re: Making a chamber reamer
There's two schools of thought in reamers. One of them, chucking reamers, the periphery of the reamer is circular ground (like yours right now) with a narrow land. The land is intended to guide the reamer, which cuts on the end only.homebrew .357 wrote:just to make sure I`M on the right track there`s reamers have a relief cut close up to the sharp cutting edge , how close to the edge , I`M at ( 0.034" ) back from it, is this ok or a bit more.
The second school of thought is a reamer that's intended to cut on the sides (like a hand reamer). Such a reamer must have almost no land, so the flute can cut on the periphery. The greater the land size, the tougher it's going to be to get the reamer to cut. Typically, such a reamer is ground with a primary and secondary relief, with the primary relief creating a sharp edge at the front (the flute). This relief will appear to you as being a land, but it is not. The grind provides for a modest amount of relief, so the reamer makes contact ONLY at the cutting edge. Such a reamer will cut with the least amount of effort.
So then, to produce a reamer that will perform well, what you'd best do is to sharpen the reamer on a finger, after heat treat. That would correct any errors in form that might result from heat treat, as heating and cooling metals tends to relax pent up stress, resulting in at least minor movement.
This grinding operation would require a cutter grinder, one that has the capability of turning the table and suspending the reamer between centers, so it can follow the finger properly. That would apply to all forms that are not a straight cylinder, such as a cartridge case. That's the ideal setup. If you don't have access to such a setup, I think you'd be best served by making a test reamer and experimenting to see how close you can get to the cutting edge, to see if you can find a width of circular grind that will perform to your satisfaction. Mind you, I'm not suggesting that you can't achieve your goal without grinding--just that grinding will correct minor issues that may spell the difference between a reamer that performs as expected, or one that yields a poor result.
Heh! Warm is a relative term! We, here on the left coast of the US, are not having it too bad, but the right coast and Midwest are being slammed pretty hard right now. Record low temps and considerable snow. Our thoughts are with those folks.Hope you guy`s are keeping warm over there, here the sun is shining, great, Cheers, Homebrew.357.
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: Making a chamber reamer
It should be close to 80 today here, but there may be a breeze, so I'm not sure what the "wind chill" factor will be.
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Re: Making a chamber reamer
Wind Chill Index. Note that they won't evaluate the formula for you if the temp is above 50° F although obviously the felt temperature is less when a wind blows upon a sweating skin.
Re: Making a chamber reamer
Best protect yourself against those harsh conditions, Glenn.Glenn Wegman wrote:It should be close to 80 today here, but there may be a breeze, so I'm not sure what the "wind chill" factor will be.
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
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Re: Making a chamber reamer
fear dehydration
- steamin10
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Re: Making a chamber reamer
Ha! Thats what Minty Julups, Rum Punch, and Bahama Mamas are for. And if it dont hydrate ya, ya dont care anyway!
Make sure about your 1000 Sunblock before you pass out on the beach.
An effect we found handy was sharpening a tap for a nut threader, and then tapping the end it on a beam, made the hardened material spring open a thou or so, giving us a better life on worn out tapping mandrels. Each tap had to be fitted to a hook, that rode in a spinning head spitting out tapped nuts from blanks.
Make sure about your 1000 Sunblock before you pass out on the beach.
An effect we found handy was sharpening a tap for a nut threader, and then tapping the end it on a beam, made the hardened material spring open a thou or so, giving us a better life on worn out tapping mandrels. Each tap had to be fitted to a hook, that rode in a spinning head spitting out tapped nuts from blanks.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.