Hackasaw look what you started!

[Scott]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 85114&rd=1

I also bought a new tig torch that's real slick.It" a 125 amp 180 degree weldcraft.It is air cooled,and has replaceable heads for more amp carrying ability.Also you can add a 70 degree head,90 degree head,flex head,and a few other ones too.One torch that will do all sorts of defferent things.Jacin got me on that trip with posting his 180 degree torches.It's a better design than the flex head only,because they wear out from bending them too much.

Also Hackasaw,I bought a hundred razor blades!

[Hackasaw]

I wanna see the torch!!!!!!

I thought I was like all slick having already seen those flex head torches just recently and was even considering casually droping mention of them in a post here and there........ you know........ all sophisticated like.

Killer deal on the tungstens.

Now here is a question for you.........

Can I run a torch with a slide or rotary control with a foot pedal...... that would be sweet.......

I've had three weldgasms today since I no longer have to scratch start....... ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhha.

[Scott]

Hackasaw,I really wouldn't know on the double amp control,but I have a feeling it wouldn't work out without some kind of control box.I never have seen one,but who knows?

I haven't got the torch yet,because it is on order.I looked over the web,and really could not find much on it.I need to get some way to post pics.I kind of hate to spend tool money on computer stuff,but it could be helpful in the long run.

I also picked up a box of ten,1/8 tungstens for $7.50.I would watch that guy because he only charged $2.00 on shipping both.The total was $11.75 for two boxs.He had a box of 3/32 that I got out bid on for $15.00.No use getting greedy.

So you got your Hi freq on dc working.It's like night,and day as far as using the sratch start vs hi freq start.You are uptown now!

[nic]

Don't know how your pedal is constructed, but my Lincoln SqWave175's pedal is held together by the pivot pins.
They're sprung, so just push them both in and slide the top off. Inside you find a rack that runs a pinion gear
that's attached to a rotary resistor.
Can't remember if there was anything else in there that would add complexity to making a remote. I do intend to
figure it out......... someday.
Anybody know if this is anything but a low-voltage circuit???

[Hackasaw]

it would be the cat's azz!

The pedal for work that was conducive to the pedal......... flip the switch and use the slide switch for the contortionist stuff and rid yourself of crawling around on the floor operationg a pedal with your elbow.

If anyone invents this setup....... hook me up with the rig and make yourself a fortune.

I can see no reason why it shouldn't be available and viable to do.

[Scott]

Should,be easy with a switch.The only thing you need is a layout of the amptrol pin plug,so you know what goes where.The most important part would be having the right hand,and foot amptrol control.The amptrol plugs are kind of spendy,so try to wire without.To do it without the female,and male plugs would save a whole bunch of cash.

[Hackasaw]

the slide control torch work with the foot pedal if properly switched or would it have to be turned WFO to be controlled by the pedal?

[Scott]

You might work,but seems a whole lot simpler to have a switch to use each independent of each other.Seems like a can of worms any other way.Atleast for me it would be.I wish somebody would make a slider with a button for my Thermalarc.That way I could use the slope up,and down,and also have current control.I would not even need them to work together.When you plug a foot or hand control into mine you don't get a slope control.That happens only with a button.

Hackasaw you need to light a fire under some of these welding EE out there.Instead they are allowed to figure out how to make alumimum transformers weld good.That takes up most their time.

[nic]

Looking around the Lincoln web site, they sell either 1) an arc starter switch, or 2) an arc starter switch with an amptrol.
If I understand it correctly, use just the switch to get the arc going, but only at the amperage setting that is set on the
front panel. Hit the switch, full on./let off the switch, full off. No amptrol is necessary.
The torch mounted switch/amptrol they sell is over $200, and doesn't look like it would be too easy to operate. But
if it were free, would be better than doing the yoga-weld bit.

[Scott]

Nic,I think it depends on the machine as to how the button works.The way my Thermalarc prowave is with the button you can use the slope up or down with the current set on the machine.If you plug in the foot pedal or hand slider the slope does not work.That's why some machines have a two step or four step slope by hitting just the button.Like the Esab tig I had although I didn't have the slope control with it.Really the button without slope is for dc welding.My Lincoln 305 g engine drive does it a little different with a button.It's more for stopping the arc than starting It has lift arc dc tig with a auto slope built in. It just keeps the tungsten from blowing up when the arc first starts.It happens almost to fast to tell if it is a slope.It does work really well.Everybody does something a little different.Thats why all the different amptrols,and pins.
They are moving to more crossover from one machine maker to the next.Which is a big step forward.

[Fred]

Clarification please:

I thought the switch just started the arc/killed it and the amptrol/switch would enable one to start/kill the arc and adjust the current. Please explain what the slope control does? Why would one want to control it with an amptrol? Any other stuff a dumb newbee should know?

P.S. I have a Lincoln Squarewave 175 and am looking to upgrade ( Miller Dynasty 200 maybe ).

Thx's, Fred.

[Scott]

Fred,
the foot,and hand controls do the same thing.When you have button that works with slope its like using your foot pedal.When you hit the button the slope control on the welder brings the current up to what you have set on the control panel on the machine.Then when you want to stop the arc just press the button again,and it brings the arc down to stop at a certain rate.The times are ajustable,up or down.You also asked why somebody would want a button.It is because it's a whole lot easier to hit a button then mess with the hand slider control.I have both,and like the foot pedal the best.I can never seem to get the right grip for working the hand slider.Some people love them.I think my next setup will be the button with my new torch setup.It's kind of hard to weld aluminum with a button.Just the way you have to give it power then back off.Thats why I said the button is for dc,atleast for me.