Has anyone tried this stuff for cast iron repairs?
http://www.muggyweld.com/silversolder.html
There is a video at the bottom of the page showing a cast iron manifold being soldered.
Thanks!
Soldering Cast Iron?
Moderator: Harold_V
Soldering Cast Iron?
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Re: Soldering Cast Iron?
Glenn,
All Muggy Weld Product's are fantastic..
I watched a guy repair a Ford 460 exhaust manifold that was cracked
and it worked perfectly.
Ken.
All Muggy Weld Product's are fantastic..
I watched a guy repair a Ford 460 exhaust manifold that was cracked
and it worked perfectly.
Ken.
One must remember.
The best learning experiences come
from working with the older Masters.
Ken.
The best learning experiences come
from working with the older Masters.
Ken.
Re: Soldering Cast Iron?
Thanks Ken!
I figured I'd give it a try, and ordered some earlier this morning.
It looks to be perfect for the repair I'm attempting.
I figured I'd give it a try, and ordered some earlier this morning.
It looks to be perfect for the repair I'm attempting.
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Re: Soldering Cast Iron?
Nothing special about the video... or the outrageously expensive filler he used.
I use 56% silver (Harris) regularly, but wouldn't recommend it for exhaust manifolds where the exhaust temperatures could easily exceed the silver's 1205 °F liquidus. Ol' timers have seen many a glowing red exhaust manifolds in their day... I certainly have.
If you insist on brazing exhaust manifolds, then use off-the-shelf LFB (low fuming bronze brazing rod). Its liquidus is closer to 1600 °F. Not only is it better suited for the task, but at approx. $0.75 a 36" stick for LFB, (vs. a whopping $34 per 36" stick of 'Muggy' silver) it's a LOT cheaper.
I use 56% silver (Harris) regularly, but wouldn't recommend it for exhaust manifolds where the exhaust temperatures could easily exceed the silver's 1205 °F liquidus. Ol' timers have seen many a glowing red exhaust manifolds in their day... I certainly have.
If you insist on brazing exhaust manifolds, then use off-the-shelf LFB (low fuming bronze brazing rod). Its liquidus is closer to 1600 °F. Not only is it better suited for the task, but at approx. $0.75 a 36" stick for LFB, (vs. a whopping $34 per 36" stick of 'Muggy' silver) it's a LOT cheaper.
Re: Soldering Cast Iron?
Papa is correct on high temperature joints, but also to get the best results you need to heat the base material to 500 degrees. When my father would weld up old blocks and heads for the off shore boat racing that used Merlin engines, he developed a chamber of fire bricks and a movable port on one side that allowed access for brazing (that’s what he described it). And the joints seemed to last well, until something else broke due to the pounding.
I’ve done the same thing with a stack of 32 fire bricks to fix my knee handle on my lathe.
PS. Don’t even think of using the oven in your house, opening too big and the wife will get really made when the casserole she fixes smells like metal.
Happy brazing
Charles
I’ve done the same thing with a stack of 32 fire bricks to fix my knee handle on my lathe.
PS. Don’t even think of using the oven in your house, opening too big and the wife will get really made when the casserole she fixes smells like metal.
Happy brazing
Charles
The best times were behind one of Al's engines
Re: Soldering Cast Iron?
Glenn,
Did you ever receive your Muggy rod, and get your repair done?
How did you do etc.??
Ken.
Did you ever receive your Muggy rod, and get your repair done?
How did you do etc.??
Ken.
One must remember.
The best learning experiences come
from working with the older Masters.
Ken.
The best learning experiences come
from working with the older Masters.
Ken.
Re: Soldering Cast Iron?
Hello Ken,
I have not been back to that project yet.
I am keeping an eye open for a set of O/A torches, as I have just never had a use for them before.
Back burner project, so to speak.
Thanks!
I have not been back to that project yet.
I am keeping an eye open for a set of O/A torches, as I have just never had a use for them before.
Back burner project, so to speak.
Thanks!
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Re: Soldering Cast Iron?
I have used these on several ocassions and they work great 
I have repaired a coupke exhaust manifolds and repaired a piece on my old mill that was broke do to operator error.
I have repaired a coupke exhaust manifolds and repaired a piece on my old mill that was broke do to operator error.Re: Soldering Cast Iron?
Thanks for the report!
I'll be re-repairing freeze damage on an antique engine cylinder head.
The previous repair was done with lead, which did not bond...
The repair is in the water jacket, and will see no pressure, as it is a hopper cooled engine.
The head is about 10" in diameter, and the cracked area is about 5/16 wall thickness.
I have a heat treat furnace, so I plan to pop it in the furnace and bring it up to about 500°, pull it out and braze it, then pop it back in, let it stabilize, then just switch the furmace off and let the head cool inside the furnace, as it will take quite a while to cool if left closed up as it is a very efficient furnace.
May be overkill, but it can't hurt!
I'll be re-repairing freeze damage on an antique engine cylinder head.
The previous repair was done with lead, which did not bond...
The repair is in the water jacket, and will see no pressure, as it is a hopper cooled engine.
The head is about 10" in diameter, and the cracked area is about 5/16 wall thickness.
I have a heat treat furnace, so I plan to pop it in the furnace and bring it up to about 500°, pull it out and braze it, then pop it back in, let it stabilize, then just switch the furmace off and let the head cool inside the furnace, as it will take quite a while to cool if left closed up as it is a very efficient furnace.
May be overkill, but it can't hurt!
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Re: Soldering Cast Iron?
Glenn,
I suggest removing all the lead from the old repair
with a small chissel and or slow moving rotory rasp
prior to putting it into your preheat oven, so there
is no lead melted into the cast where the new rod
is going. (Just an suggestion)
Ken.
I suggest removing all the lead from the old repair
with a small chissel and or slow moving rotory rasp
prior to putting it into your preheat oven, so there
is no lead melted into the cast where the new rod
is going. (Just an suggestion)
Ken.
One must remember.
The best learning experiences come
from working with the older Masters.
Ken.
The best learning experiences come
from working with the older Masters.
Ken.
Re: Soldering Cast Iron?
The lead just peels off with my fingers.
It will get a god cleaning and prep for sure.
Just havn't had time to play with it yet.
Thanks Ken!
It will get a god cleaning and prep for sure.
Just havn't had time to play with it yet.
Thanks Ken!
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Re: Soldering Cast Iron?
I have tried Muggy weld on the cast Aluminum.
It was for a 50 hp 4 stroke Mercury outboard motor that was backed in to a wall and broke off the motor mount.
I tigged where i could reach but i have no glove box and the inaccessible areas needed another method.
Muggy weld did not stick to the totally pure Aluminum. I contacted Muggy and got a brand new jar of flux for the application and the same results. no sticky. I have seen the demos and i did believe it would have worked that was why i tried it. Muggy did not work on pure Aluminum. I sold the motor as is.
It was for a 50 hp 4 stroke Mercury outboard motor that was backed in to a wall and broke off the motor mount.
I tigged where i could reach but i have no glove box and the inaccessible areas needed another method.
Muggy weld did not stick to the totally pure Aluminum. I contacted Muggy and got a brand new jar of flux for the application and the same results. no sticky. I have seen the demos and i did believe it would have worked that was why i tried it. Muggy did not work on pure Aluminum. I sold the motor as is.