I've done a fair amount of stick welding on the construction jobs over they years. Not a pipe fitter by any means, but I can run a decent weld and they get the job done.
I picked up an old Marquette A/C machine years ago free that doesn't weld for nuthin. If I hadn't done welding in the past, I would have thought it was all me.
So for around the house/farm, I'm looking for a MIG, or wire feed flux core machine. I also want a 115 volt machine so I can take it out and run it off my generator. Not repairing heavy equipment here just regular fix it stuff and making stuff.
So I have looked at two machines on Ebay with free shipping. Would like the opinions of those familiar with these machines.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RealGear-USA-MI ... 20c1cdd885
1 year warranty and comes with the regulator and stuff ready for gas.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LINCOLN-WORK-PA ... 1e61374c27
Not really fond of refurbished stuff, but it does have the full 3 year warranty from Lincoln. Only a few bucks more.
Thanks for the input.
Buying a MIG
Moderator: Harold_V
Re: Buying a MIG
Not familiar with either machine but.....
I'd stick with a brand name (Lincoln, Miller) at least you can get it fixed.
Get the biggest one (amperage wise) I could if stuck with 110v
Pay attention to cycle time. Most 110 machines have a limited cycle time at the high end. That Lincoln has 20% (typical).
Flux core spatters more than using solid wire with bottle.
I'd never trust it to do good 1/4" welds. Multiple passes is just 'glueing it together'
I'd stick with a brand name (Lincoln, Miller) at least you can get it fixed.
Get the biggest one (amperage wise) I could if stuck with 110v
Pay attention to cycle time. Most 110 machines have a limited cycle time at the high end. That Lincoln has 20% (typical).
Flux core spatters more than using solid wire with bottle.
I'd never trust it to do good 1/4" welds. Multiple passes is just 'glueing it together'
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steamin10
- Posts: 6712
- Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2003 11:52 pm
- Location: NW Indiana. Close to Lake Michigan S. tip
Re: Buying a MIG
I have the 125 Lincoln 110 V machine with out gas (can be converted), and the 180 HD Nascar edtion that is 220 V. ( It has an OFFICIAL Nascar stcker on it!) 
I use the 110 for AC work on roof tops and small indoor projects. I get by using it as a spot welder just about anywhere. The 180 comes gas ready, a real plus.
Both units benfit from gas coverage, and a heavy extension cord, as they suffer form line sag terribly. Naturally the 125 is a wimpy welder, and physically just a bit lighter than the 180. But there are far more places to plug a 110 machine into around any house. The 180 is much better and more stable, although not an industrial machine, (cheap whips and gun) It is a reasonably good machine. I bought both my machines new, at discount by watching Ebay, and Craigs list. The 180 for example was $275 in a sealed box, from CL. I dont have any experience with comparable Esab, Hobart or other machines, except to say , I have an Italian built Mig sitting in my 'broken, but maybe I'll fix it pile'. It took a dump off a work table, and was donated to "Mr. Fixxit". Thanks.
If you can afford to do so, the larger gas bottle wil save you a ton of money on fills, if you weld at all, Unless you are a doof that leaves the tank on to leak away. ( TIP: Use a RED drink cup on the handle when it is shut off. The habit will be a pain but save many tanks of gas.) Large or small tank, a shop cart will add to portability, and get the welder up to waist high. A min torch setup on the bottom shelf and a tray for grinders, plyers, and junk, make for a fast work station, that can follow you.
I use the 110 for AC work on roof tops and small indoor projects. I get by using it as a spot welder just about anywhere. The 180 comes gas ready, a real plus.Both units benfit from gas coverage, and a heavy extension cord, as they suffer form line sag terribly. Naturally the 125 is a wimpy welder, and physically just a bit lighter than the 180. But there are far more places to plug a 110 machine into around any house. The 180 is much better and more stable, although not an industrial machine, (cheap whips and gun) It is a reasonably good machine. I bought both my machines new, at discount by watching Ebay, and Craigs list. The 180 for example was $275 in a sealed box, from CL. I dont have any experience with comparable Esab, Hobart or other machines, except to say , I have an Italian built Mig sitting in my 'broken, but maybe I'll fix it pile'. It took a dump off a work table, and was donated to "Mr. Fixxit". Thanks.
If you can afford to do so, the larger gas bottle wil save you a ton of money on fills, if you weld at all, Unless you are a doof that leaves the tank on to leak away. ( TIP: Use a RED drink cup on the handle when it is shut off. The habit will be a pain but save many tanks of gas.) Large or small tank, a shop cart will add to portability, and get the welder up to waist high. A min torch setup on the bottom shelf and a tray for grinders, plyers, and junk, make for a fast work station, that can follow you.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
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warmstrong1955
- Posts: 3568
- Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2010 2:05 pm
- Location: Northern Nevada
Re: Buying a MIG
I own a couple inverter welders....
My 120V is a Miller 135. Came set up to run flux core and solid wire, had everything you need except the bottle of gas. I use it a lot....for the small stuff, for both steel & stainless steel. Great little welder.
I have a 220V PowCon 200SM, with PowerDrive wire-feed unit, so it's both stick & MIG. Also set up for gas. PowCon is the originator of the inverter welder. It's old, but it's been a really good welder. PowCon sold out to Miller years ago, but they are making welders again.
( see http://www.arconweld.com/ )
For the 120V models, I've used, and/or have friends that have Millers, Hobarts, ESAB's, and Lincolns. All with no problems at all. Can't say the same for some friends I kow who have Horror Freight things, and one who went thru 3 Century welders before he got one that would keep working. He may be the exception.... I don't know.
In the mines, we always got the larger inverters, mostly for stick welding, but some with MIG as well. I quit buying Lincolns, as they didn't like 'dirty' power, something typical in underground mines. The Millers and the Arcons were great. The Millers were smart....all you had to do was wire 'em in, and they adjusted themselves to the input power...a nice feature. but not what you're after....
If you buy a 120V machine, get one that will do solid wire too. Flux core is just nasty. I use it, but not often, and only if I have too. (outside..... in the wind) Even if you don't get a bottle of gas right away...you have the stuff to do it.
I think I would stick with the name brand stuff. Service is important. I needed a new liner for my Miller Mig gun a few days ago, and ran down to the dealer down the road, and picked one up. Tips, nozzles, wire...they have all that stuff. I think it's worth the money, but would depend a lot on your usage.
Bill
My 120V is a Miller 135. Came set up to run flux core and solid wire, had everything you need except the bottle of gas. I use it a lot....for the small stuff, for both steel & stainless steel. Great little welder.
I have a 220V PowCon 200SM, with PowerDrive wire-feed unit, so it's both stick & MIG. Also set up for gas. PowCon is the originator of the inverter welder. It's old, but it's been a really good welder. PowCon sold out to Miller years ago, but they are making welders again.
( see http://www.arconweld.com/ )
For the 120V models, I've used, and/or have friends that have Millers, Hobarts, ESAB's, and Lincolns. All with no problems at all. Can't say the same for some friends I kow who have Horror Freight things, and one who went thru 3 Century welders before he got one that would keep working. He may be the exception.... I don't know.
In the mines, we always got the larger inverters, mostly for stick welding, but some with MIG as well. I quit buying Lincolns, as they didn't like 'dirty' power, something typical in underground mines. The Millers and the Arcons were great. The Millers were smart....all you had to do was wire 'em in, and they adjusted themselves to the input power...a nice feature. but not what you're after....
If you buy a 120V machine, get one that will do solid wire too. Flux core is just nasty. I use it, but not often, and only if I have too. (outside..... in the wind) Even if you don't get a bottle of gas right away...you have the stuff to do it.
I think I would stick with the name brand stuff. Service is important. I needed a new liner for my Miller Mig gun a few days ago, and ran down to the dealer down the road, and picked one up. Tips, nozzles, wire...they have all that stuff. I think it's worth the money, but would depend a lot on your usage.
Bill
Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.
Re: Buying a MIG
110V MIGs are good for sheet metal and not much else, but they can be very handy for that.
I'd get a better stick machine if you are already experienced with stick. No wire or gas hassles, instant electrode swapout, they reach much further than a MIG gun, and welding outdoors is no problem.
Used Idealarcs and Dialarcs are common for less than a new Thunderbolt AC/DC buzzbox (also a very useful machine, I'd get one before getting a budget MIG) and since you've done construction work they'll perform to your liking.
I'd get a better stick machine if you are already experienced with stick. No wire or gas hassles, instant electrode swapout, they reach much further than a MIG gun, and welding outdoors is no problem.
Used Idealarcs and Dialarcs are common for less than a new Thunderbolt AC/DC buzzbox (also a very useful machine, I'd get one before getting a budget MIG) and since you've done construction work they'll perform to your liking.
Re: Buying a MIG
I'm a hobbyist. Took two 8-week welding courses at the local community college a few years ago. I finally came to a financial state where I could purchase a welder.
I spent a few months hemming and hawing about what welder to buy. Big 3, Everlast, Eastwood, HF, new, used, 120V, 240V, etc. Eventually worked my way up to a Lincoln 180DV, which will run on 120 or 240. I justified this by wanting something with good capability, but which maintained the ability to run to a friend's house and help them out if necessary. I picked it up about 3 weeks ago. There's a $100 rebate through the end of February.
It came nicely equipped with two sizes of wire (.023 mig, .035 Fluxcore), appropriate spare contact tips, etc. I also picked up some .030 mig wire and tips for heavier materials. (Watch out, the 180DV uses the Pro 100L gun, which uses a new style contact tip)
I've used it with 75/25, on .023 and .030 wire, and the fluxcore. After about half a spool of each wire, I'm up to the point where my welds pass the hammer tests and cross sectioning tests. I'm very happy with the performance of the machine. The .030 mig will pass the above tests on 3/16" plate fillet welds with the machine pretty much maxed out. The flux core is really hot, and seems to handle the 1/4" plate very well (only tested fillet weld). I haven't gone lighter than 16 gauge yet, but I was able to do good fillet, butt, and lap welds quite easily. I haven't tried using it on 120V yet, as I don't have an appropriate receptacle in the garage.
I actually used it to fix something yesterday, as well. Opened the fridge and the door fell off. The bottom bracket (die casting) had broken off. $32 for the part, and 3 day delivery as it was not stocked in town. I was able to make a new one in about an hour and a half and had the duct tape off the fridge door the same day. Couldn't have done it with a stick machine and my skills, as the part is only about 2" tall.
Paraphrasing what someone out there says( I wanted to credit him, but couldn't find the signature again), spending hundreds on tools to save tens of dollars on repairs.
I spent a few months hemming and hawing about what welder to buy. Big 3, Everlast, Eastwood, HF, new, used, 120V, 240V, etc. Eventually worked my way up to a Lincoln 180DV, which will run on 120 or 240. I justified this by wanting something with good capability, but which maintained the ability to run to a friend's house and help them out if necessary. I picked it up about 3 weeks ago. There's a $100 rebate through the end of February.
It came nicely equipped with two sizes of wire (.023 mig, .035 Fluxcore), appropriate spare contact tips, etc. I also picked up some .030 mig wire and tips for heavier materials. (Watch out, the 180DV uses the Pro 100L gun, which uses a new style contact tip)
I've used it with 75/25, on .023 and .030 wire, and the fluxcore. After about half a spool of each wire, I'm up to the point where my welds pass the hammer tests and cross sectioning tests. I'm very happy with the performance of the machine. The .030 mig will pass the above tests on 3/16" plate fillet welds with the machine pretty much maxed out. The flux core is really hot, and seems to handle the 1/4" plate very well (only tested fillet weld). I haven't gone lighter than 16 gauge yet, but I was able to do good fillet, butt, and lap welds quite easily. I haven't tried using it on 120V yet, as I don't have an appropriate receptacle in the garage.
I actually used it to fix something yesterday, as well. Opened the fridge and the door fell off. The bottom bracket (die casting) had broken off. $32 for the part, and 3 day delivery as it was not stocked in town. I was able to make a new one in about an hour and a half and had the duct tape off the fridge door the same day. Couldn't have done it with a stick machine and my skills, as the part is only about 2" tall.
Paraphrasing what someone out there says( I wanted to credit him, but couldn't find the signature again), spending hundreds on tools to save tens of dollars on repairs.