Finally getting ready to build my forge

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BadDog
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Joined: Wed May 17, 2006 8:21 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

Finally getting ready to build my forge

Post by BadDog »

My son knows my addiction to metal work, he grew up with it. Year before last for Christmas, he bought a class in knife forging at the local CE extension. He knew that I was at least moderately skilled at weldment/fabrication in all 4 primary processes (we built a rock crawler together when he was in middle/high school). And obviously I've got a decent machine shop. So most bases covered. Best part, he not only got MY class, but he and his wife joined me as well! I don't want to hurt anyone's feelings, but best gift EVER! It was so fun he got us all a full day "advanced" class last Christmas.

Forging was a blast, and I wanted to add it to my options. I've got a 200 gal propane tank all setup to go with a high flow regulator etc, and a 110 lb Vulcan anvil among other basics (still looking for that deal on a premium 200lb+ anvil). But I still need a flexible forge to form the core. I'm figuring on a basic forced air single burner forge built of refractory brick contained in a frame. But I want it configurable and able to handle larger/longer pieces as needed, possible with a second force air burner. Got that pretty much covered.

But refractory brick is not large enough for what I want. I've got a defunct propane heater for the pool I saved for parts, and it's got some nice large cast refractory "plates" (for lack of a better work) in it. They are one piece maybe 2" tick, 2' wide, and 3' long, and line the burner cavity. I was thinking using normal refractory bricks for the vertical height stack, and 2 of the "plates" for top and bottom (or maybe bricks for bottom?) And angle iron frame provides the structure to keep things in place. That gives me a nice long open heat box that can be configured as needed for large or small parts. Bother front and back openings would be configured as needed with loose bricks.

My question is, are the large ~2" thick plates from the heater up to the task? Temps in the heater reach nowhere near forge temps. I'm also a bit concerned about the unsupported upper span plate cracking and collapsing.

Anyone thing this is a viable idea? Or have suggestions?
Russ
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steamin10
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Re: Finally getting ready to build my forge

Post by steamin10 »

A local blacksmith, (forging hobby) used a gas forge that resembled a dragons mouth, or alligator shape. It had a hard brick hearth on the bottom, and fluffy blanket insulation on top. The bottom plate was cast iron, and the top steel with a rim coming down, allowing about 4-5 inches between. The part, bar or whatever was placed on the floor brick and was engulfed in the orange-white glow of the flame that originated in the burner from the rear. For all purposes, it was a weed burner, and portable with the use of a 100 lb LP tank. this thing was rebuilt from some kind of school training forge that had a blower and other things that he removed for simplicity. He made a lot of bent objects, often hammered on a piece of 155lb rail, and a smallish (100 lb?) horned anvil.

I see no reason why a similar idea wont work for you, if you have the desire to create one.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
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