Re: How to gate and runner a car frame?
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2018 10:16 am
I tried some proffessional graphite coating on my styrofoam patterns, also tried other coatings, yes they helped a little.
As far as gating is concerned, I prefer top gating.
In the first photo below the pattern is shown with top gating in place, and a graphite coating.
In the second photo is a poured top gated Delta Trailing Truck in 3 5’s brass.
In the third photo, all those wheels were poured with a large sprue in the center, the smaller wheels in a tree of many wheels in a 55 gal drum, the drivers in individual flasks.
In the fourth photo the 60” long Water Bed Tender frame was top poured using two rather large spures at each bolster position, it took two furnaces with #60 crucibles full of A356 aluminum, plus a crew of four to pour the metal. Was not sure it would work, but after the fifth pour it was easy to do.
Went on to cast other tender parts out of A356, it was a project I would never be able to repeat again, shops have been long gone from Lane Tech H.S., and I have been retired for many years.
As far as gating is concerned, I prefer top gating.
In the first photo below the pattern is shown with top gating in place, and a graphite coating.
In the second photo is a poured top gated Delta Trailing Truck in 3 5’s brass.
In the third photo, all those wheels were poured with a large sprue in the center, the smaller wheels in a tree of many wheels in a 55 gal drum, the drivers in individual flasks.
In the fourth photo the 60” long Water Bed Tender frame was top poured using two rather large spures at each bolster position, it took two furnaces with #60 crucibles full of A356 aluminum, plus a crew of four to pour the metal. Was not sure it would work, but after the fifth pour it was easy to do.
Went on to cast other tender parts out of A356, it was a project I would never be able to repeat again, shops have been long gone from Lane Tech H.S., and I have been retired for many years.