aftermarket 2-cycle carbs

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spro
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aftermarket 2-cycle carbs

Post by spro » Sat Jun 13, 2015 9:08 pm

I bought a Stihl FS85 wacker but it had set too long and primer bulb had disintegrated. I replaced that and cleaned best I felt like doing. Got it to run but it was never pulling gas mixture. Glad it didn't. The gasoline I was using was hi octane yet 10%ethanol. The oil I was using was not API "TC" oil. All the mix ratio goes out the window if it is the wrong oil and gas. I rebuilt the carb but didn't get into the tiniest bits where you remove miniscule plates. It ran but for test purposes and was wrong. Then I ordered a complete carb from afar and it worked perfectly. By this time I knew to get non-ethanoled gasoline and supplant it with an octane booster. Into that mix was the proper oil (Carquest 2-cycle oil is TC) and a new carburetor.
The carb cost about $13.00. They already set it so that an engine proper in other ways would run...and it did. Second pull.
So there are some real jewels out there for chainsaws and serious whackers to get things going.

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ronm
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Re: aftermarket 2-cycle carbs

Post by ronm » Sat Jun 13, 2015 10:43 pm

Where exactly did you order this carb from? My John Deere trimmer seems like it requires a carb overhaul every time I use it...Hell of a machine, when it (if it decides to) runs...

spro
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Re: aftermarket 2-cycle carbs

Post by spro » Sat Jun 13, 2015 11:53 pm

Yes. Sometimes itty bitty things are happening in those small needle valves or under pressed covers. I'll try to get the original sorted out, later. It is so nice to have it run now. I found it on eBay and the seller is direct from Hong Kong. Many of these are available in the States. I looked up Deere in a book and they are very similar Zama and Walbro carbs. The seller is huztl.net
These came from afar and the whacker needed a carb. In some cases the original carburetor has only one mixture screw. These carbs have an idle/low and higher speed screw needle. They are already set for general starting condition when you get them. As it warms up, you can tailor the settings but they were not far off.
There is another hole at the face of the carb. The front plate to aircleaner do not have that hole, so the gasket does not need that hole. It was the regular way of drilling a passage to something else.
There were engines by Shindawa, Echo and others around the time John Deere had Kawasaki 4-strokes in their lawn tractors and there are clues on that carb to what it is and what can replace it.

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BadDog
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Re: aftermarket 2-cycle carbs

Post by BadDog » Sun Jun 14, 2015 1:48 am

Those primer bulbs are a personal pet peeve. I have yet to find one that lasts longer than about a year, and they are not readily available in single size that fits mine. I ordered a pack of 10 that I thought would fit based on the compatibility list, but they did not, now stuck with 10 bulbs and no use. The only way I've found to get what I need is in the cheap variety packs, with the annual failure rate...
Russ
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Harold_V
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Re: aftermarket 2-cycle carbs

Post by Harold_V » Sun Jun 14, 2015 2:10 am

BadDog wrote:Those primer bulbs are a personal pet peeve. I have yet to find one that lasts longer than about a year
Interesting. I've not had any problems, but I also don't have a lot of experience with them. My chainsaw (Skihl) is now about 8 years old and has one. It has never been troublesome, but I do two things. I never leave fuel in the saw (I run it dry after dumping the fuel tank), and I NEVER use fuel that contains alcohol.

Might be helpful for you to describe your procedure.

Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

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juiceclone
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Re: aftermarket 2-cycle carbs

Post by juiceclone » Sun Jun 14, 2015 7:46 am

Absolute yes on avoiding ethanol. Ethanol destroyed a plastic tank after a year of use! As far as needing octane booster, not really. Higher octane is needed in high compression engines to prevent detonation. I've never seen a two-stroke gas engine with "high" compression. :>)

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warmstrong1955
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Re: aftermarket 2-cycle carbs

Post by warmstrong1955 » Sun Jun 14, 2015 8:24 am

Pretty tough to buy ethanol free gasoline around here. Closest place is about 250 miles away, at least the only one I know of. (By Tahoe)

I've been using Stabil for several years, and have done pretty well. At the end of the season, I put some in the tanks of everything I have, and run 'em a bit. That includes 2-stroke things like my chain saw & string trimmer.

4-stroke engines....I just fire 'em up in the spring.
2-strokes, I drain what's left in 'em and refill with new before I run 'em.

First time I had to take the carb apart on my old Craftsman trimmer, was last summer. The hose from the fuel tank, finally dissolved, inside the tank. It has a weight on the end so it'll always stay on the bottom, and that part fell off....or dissolved off. Not bad....I bought it in 1988.

Before I started doing the Stabil treatment at the end of the year, I was constantly taking apart carbs.
The only thing I have with a primer bulb on it, is a walk behind mower, and I haven't touched the carb on it. (yet) It's 10 years old, and had enough use I had to machine out the plastic wheels and install bronze bushings.

Bill
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spro
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Re: aftermarket 2-cycle carbs

Post by spro » Sun Jun 14, 2015 8:39 am

According to the manual of a Stihl FS 80, 85 Brushcutter; "The minimum octane rating is 90 RON (U.S.A./Canada: pump octane min. 89!" This was printed before 10% ethanol. The only non-eth gasoline I can find is 87 so a little booster doesn't hurt.

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warmstrong1955
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Re: aftermarket 2-cycle carbs

Post by warmstrong1955 » Sun Jun 14, 2015 9:01 am

spro wrote:According to the manual of a Stihl FS 80, 85 Brushcutter; "The minimum octane rating is 90 RON (U.S.A./Canada: pump octane min. 89!" This was printed before 10% ethanol. The only non-eth gasoline I can find is 87 so a little booster doesn't hurt.
The Stihl FS 38 manual says "minimum octane rating of 89, and no more than 10% ethanol content." Newer model....in a world of gasoline with corn squeezin's.

I'd think you'd be better off using non-ethanol gasoline & octane booster Spro. Not a fan of ethanol myself.....

I was thinking of buying one of those FS 38's. My Craftsman is getting tired.

Bill
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spro
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Re: aftermarket 2-cycle carbs

Post by spro » Sun Jun 14, 2015 10:40 am

I know I'm better off. That is why I bought ethanol-free gas for it and added octane boost. I was not always so careful with these things and fried things. Something interesting about TC oils (the required oils) is that the un TC rated oils showed a ratio of 2.0 -2.6 oz per gallon gas. In a book from 2003 was info that with ..Other 2cycle oils( for Stihl) the mix would be 25/ 1 , twice the amount of oil....( 1 gallon with 1/25th oil instead of 1/50th) That's a broad range.
This TC rated oil is 3. oz per gal. for 50/1.

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warmstrong1955
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Re: aftermarket 2-cycle carbs

Post by warmstrong1955 » Sun Jun 14, 2015 11:12 am

spro wrote:I know I'm better off. That is why I bought ethanol-free gas for it and added octane boost. I was not always so careful with these things and fried things. Something interesting about TC oils (the required oils) is that the un TC rated oils showed a ratio of 2.0 -2.6 oz per gallon gas. In a book from 2003 was info that with ..Other 2cycle oils( for Stihl) the mix would be 25/ 1 , twice the amount of oil....( 1 gallon with 1/25th oil instead of 1/50th) That's a broad range.
This TC rated oil is 3. oz per gal. for 50/1.
I'm running 40:1 in all my little two-stoke engines. My chain saw recommends 25:1, but I use synthetic. (Bel-Ray)

Started using Bel-Ray when I was racing motocross, (a while ago.....) in my YX250's & 360's, I ran it at 60:1. Engines were lubed better than using any of the mineral based oils I'd been using.
Used to be another one, called Blendzall...castor oil in it. Ran it at 40:1. Also good stuff. Not sure if it's still around, but you could always tell who was running it by the smell.

:)
Bill
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hammermill
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Re: aftermarket 2-cycle carbs

Post by hammermill » Sun Jun 14, 2015 12:22 pm

most of the time i use the fuel that is premixed from the auto parts store. more pricey for sure but save fighting fuel issues, try to store stuff with everything dry and empty



some one discussed adding water with the alachol fuel, shaking up and letting sit for a day, slydge in bottom is alachol bonded with the water, decant off and have alachol free fuel.

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