Table saw blades and arbors

[jcfx]

I have a small Inca cabinet saw that I'd like to get running, only problem is that the blade arbor
is 15mm and no one makes 15mm holed saw blades anymore and 5/8" holed blades are too sloppy
a fit for comfort ( did I mention I dislike table saws because I have to lean over a spinning blade ? ).
I got quote for a custom blade for the correct 15mm hole size and it was $250 with a 10 -12 lead time.
I don't do a lot wood working for pay so I can't justify the cost.

I've seen arbor adapters which of course doesn't adapt to the size I need, they're also kind of scary to me
just a washer with a knurled OD that press fits into a blade.

I was wondering what the problems I would have, if any, if I just made a short cylindrical spacer to
adapt 5/8" hole blades to the 15mm arbor ?

[Harold_V]

There's no reason I can think of that precludes a spacer from being made. I've done it without issue.

It's simple. Chuck a piece of stock from which you can fashion the needed spacer. It need not be steel, as it does no work, it just locates. Make it in one operation---drill, bore, turn, then part off to the desired length. As it's just a spacer, make sure it is held captive in the blade such that it can't displace when the flanges are applied. The spacer may be longer than the blade width in order for that to happen, but make sure it doesn't limit the flanges from intimate contact with the blade.

Unless you change blades on a regular basis, it need not be a tight fit in the bore, although if you're able to do so, make it a snug press.

H

[jcfx]

Thanks Harold, just needed some confirmation that a spacer would just be a locator.

[SteveM]

I have a bunch of such spacers in my milling machine cabinet.

The P&W 3C mill came with arbors of 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8" and 7/8".

No 3/4" and no 1".

Milling cutters are plentiful with 1" and 1-1/4" holes, so I keep spacers on hand for those.

As Harold says, make the entire thing in one operation; that's the easiest way to ensure that everything is concentric.

Steve

[jcfx]

Steve,
Aren't the arbor for the P&W mill keyed ?
I'd be curious to see one of your spacers, just got a broach set and been broaching everything in sight,

[SteveM]

Aren't the arbor for the P&W mill keyed ?

None of the original P&W arbors are keyed.

I think the one my dad made for his mill is keyed.

I'd be curious to see one of your spacers, just got a broach set and been broaching everything in sight,

That reminds me of what Rita Rudner said:
"My husband got a staple gun. He staples everything. Now we have to bring the food to the cat."

Mine are just a simple ring that slips completely inside the bore of the cutter. They vary in thickness for different width cutters. One is less than 1/16" for use with very think cutters. The widest is probably 1/4". I don't really use slab cutters on the mill, but if I did, I'd probably slip one spacer in each side of the cutter.

Steve

[SteveHGraham]

I made spacers to adapt my white aluminum oxide wheels to my bench grinder. Totally forgot about them until I bought CBN wheels. The spacers fell out while I was changing the wheels, and I wondered where they had come from.

[BadDog]

I thought I was the only one forgetful enough to do stuff like that.

[SteveHGraham]

They looked beautiful, which is one reason why it didn't occur to me that I had made them.

[SteveM]

I made spacers to adapt my white aluminum oxide wheels to my bench grinder. Totally forgot about them until I bought CBN wheels. The spacers fell out while I was changing the wheels, and I wondered where they had come from.

I have those too.

White wheels with 1/2" holes generally cost more and are harder to find than those with with 1-1/4" holes.

Steve