new to metalworking!

This forum is dedicated to those hobbyists with the 3-in-1 metalworking machines. Mill-Drill-Lathes. Tips, techniques, modification and use of these machines is topical.

Moderator: Harold_V

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TxChevyz71
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Apr 22, 2020 11:48 am

new to metalworking!

Post by TxChevyz71 » Wed Apr 22, 2020 1:10 pm

Hi Everyone,

I just joined. I was given a Smithy Midas 1220 LTD by a friend a couple years ago.

Since I acquired the machine, I have installed a AXA QCTP. I have turned some material down etc. done some knurling, and used a cutoff.

One of the issues I discovered, when I got the machine and stand and box of parts was that one of the Outer Jaws for the chuck was missing.

I have called and emailed smithy and they tell me their machines have changed so much over the years, they do not know if the jaws sell now would fit my chuck.

The only advice they could give me was to buy a complete chuck with jaws. (I get that and understand that)

Does anyone know what kind of backing plate a smithy 1220 has? can I purchase one of the 3 or 4 jaw chucks I see for sale and bolt it up?

At this point, I am such a novice, I dont think I could make one on my own.

Thanks.

Harold_V
Posts: 18137
Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2002 11:02 pm
Location: Onalaska, WA USA

Re: new to metalworking!

Post by Harold_V » Wed Apr 22, 2020 3:40 pm

TxChevyz71 wrote:
Wed Apr 22, 2020 1:10 pm
One of the issues I discovered, when I got the machine and stand and box of parts was that one of the Outer Jaws for the chuck was missing.
Please bear in mind, I am not familiar with the machine in question, and I may not understand what you mean.
From your description, I would assume that the chuck in question is a three jaw universal chuck, and that the missing piece is the jaw insert, which mounts to the master jaw in the chuck body, via two socket head cap screws. If that's correct, there's no reason why you can't simply make a new set of jaws that install as the missing jaw does. That's commonly done, and allows one to machine the jaws to fit profiles. They're called soft jaws (for obvious reasons) and are superior to factory jaws in pretty much all ways.

If I am correct, and you have an interest, please visit The Resource Library on this board, where you will find posts that are quite helpful for those who hope to use soft jaws.

Welcome to the board.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

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NP317
Posts: 2314
Joined: Tue Jun 24, 2014 2:57 pm
Location: Northern Oregon

Re: new to metalworking!

Post by NP317 » Wed Apr 22, 2020 5:18 pm

Welcome TxChevy...
For better assistance here, posting pictures of your machine and the problem should elicit more useful responses.
Although The Master has provided your first response.
As for how your chuck mounts, remove the existing chuck to photograph the mount, and measure diameters, threads etc.
That is the information needed for us to provide specific technical responses.
RussN

TxChevyz71
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Apr 22, 2020 11:48 am

Re: new to metalworking!

Post by TxChevyz71 » Sat Apr 25, 2020 10:46 am

Thanks for the Reply.

I will take a look at the Resource Libraray.

toddalin
Posts: 239
Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2012 1:10 pm
Location: Orange County, CA
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Re: new to metalworking!

Post by toddalin » Sat Apr 25, 2020 1:59 pm

I don't know Smithy's charges, but perhaps you may prefer the ShopMaster offerings if they would work.
https://www.cnctoolexpress.com/49-lathe-accessories

pete
Posts: 1856
Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2009 6:04 am

Re: new to metalworking!

Post by pete » Sun May 10, 2020 11:33 pm

Since I don't know the exact answer as to what chuck would directly fit that lathe I'm not sure how much this might help. If your lathes spindle nose and it's chuck mounting design is common enough then in simple general terms lathe spindle chucks are made in two different ways. A direct mount where the spindle nose mounting features are fully machined into the back face of the chuck while it's being manufactured. Or the second method and what's called a plain back chuck that requires an intermediate back plate that bolts to that rear chuck face and has those precision spindle mounting features machined into it instead of directly into the chuck. Again if your spindle mount is common enough, semi finished back plates might be available and all the high precision work is already done.

You'd still have to mount that bare back plate to your spindle and fully finish the back plates face that joins to the chucks rear face and finish it's outside diameter to fit the recess in a plain back chuck as well as drill the bolt holes that allow the chuck and back plate to be joined together. But that's all fairly easy if your careful and take your time. Every 3 and 4 jaw scroll chuck will come with various amounts of run out and properly done a plain back chuck can also have the back plate machined just slightly under size and that gives a bit of movement between the back plate and the chuck with the mounting bolts loosened enough to allow that and then re-tightened once your happy with the chucks repeatability after adjusting it's position on the back plate using an indicator. With everything else being equal probably a plain back chuck and semi machined back plate might be the best choice. So your first step is to positively identify exactly what your spindle nose has for it's chuck mounting method. Until you have that then it's impossible to make further recommendations since there's at least half a dozen or more different spindle mount designs in common usage and various sizes for most of them that I can think of. And it can also depend a lot on just how closely the manufacturer decided to follow the industry standards for sizes or if they chose to use non standard sizes if your unlucky. Non standard or at least uncommon thread sizes or even pitches aren't exactly unknown on some of the far east equipment that use a threaded chuck mount as just one example.

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