Quick change tool post
Moderator: Harold_V
- SingleStacker45
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 8:07 am
- Location: NC
Quick change tool post
can someone recomend a quickchange tool post for my Grizzly 4015z. I'm really looking for the precise height adjustment.
Mule
Mule
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- Posts: 3803
- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:21 pm
- Location: Vallejo California
I could not find a lathe with that model numbers at Grizzly.
What size is the lathe?
There are two option.
Buy American or Chinese.
Chinese holders and good enough for home use and even some commercial use also.
The only precision to control the tool height is a screw. None that I know have dials, but one can put an indicator and see how much is moving up or down.
The biggest advantage of Quick-change holders is that one can have many tools already set-up and be changed in seconds.
What size is the lathe?
There are two option.
Buy American or Chinese.
Chinese holders and good enough for home use and even some commercial use also.
The only precision to control the tool height is a screw. None that I know have dials, but one can put an indicator and see how much is moving up or down.
The biggest advantage of Quick-change holders is that one can have many tools already set-up and be changed in seconds.
There are no problems, only solutions.
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Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa
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Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa
- SingleStacker45
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 8:07 am
- Location: NC
http://grizzly.com/products/G4015Z
Here is the link. When I said precision I was refering to the screw adjuster. Right now I use shims for my tools which is OK but takes time and I am not as precise with my setup.
Mule
Here is the link. When I said precision I was refering to the screw adjuster. Right now I use shims for my tools which is OK but takes time and I am not as precise with my setup.
Mule
I'd be inclined to treat that as a glorified 10" lathe, meaning the AXA Phase II would likely be a good choice. Looks like a rather standard "9x20" tool post on there now.
Chris -
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Check all parts for proper condition before operation; if normal safety precautions are noticed carefully, this machine can provide you withstanding of accurate service."
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Check all parts for proper condition before operation; if normal safety precautions are noticed carefully, this machine can provide you withstanding of accurate service."
-
- Posts: 3803
- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:21 pm
- Location: Vallejo California
- SingleStacker45
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 8:07 am
- Location: NC
- SingleStacker45
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 8:07 am
- Location: NC
-
- Posts: 3803
- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:21 pm
- Location: Vallejo California
- SingleStacker45
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 8:07 am
- Location: NC
Jose Rivera wrote:Amazing that you're cutting without chatter.
Usually something that long can drive one crazy with chatter and the steady rest has to come to the rescue.
It came out very smooth. I'm guessing it was a combo of very low speed(135 rpm) and the bar was soft alluminum and the flood helps. I was using a carbide tipped cutter. I really have no idea what I'm doing but I'm learning. I think I'm going for the above tool post from little machine shop. The tool height adjustment is driving me nuts.
Mule
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- Posts: 3803
- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:21 pm
- Location: Vallejo California
Mule, don't know if you already know this little old machinists trick.
I always use a 6" flex scale to set my height.
What I do is to gently pinch the flank of the scale with the tip of the cutter against the work-piece.
If not visibly square to normal square view surfaces, like the tool post or others, then move the tool up or down until you're square.
You can use a small square or something square as reference as well for more precision.
In any case at time having the tool just a hair high helps when you encounter some flexing
I always use a 6" flex scale to set my height.
What I do is to gently pinch the flank of the scale with the tip of the cutter against the work-piece.
If not visibly square to normal square view surfaces, like the tool post or others, then move the tool up or down until you're square.
You can use a small square or something square as reference as well for more precision.
In any case at time having the tool just a hair high helps when you encounter some flexing
There are no problems, only solutions.
--------------
Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa
--------------
Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa
- SingleStacker45
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 8:07 am
- Location: NC
You mean like a feeler guage or flexible rule?
http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-300 ... B00004T7SW
I have heard of pinning something between the cutter and the work to observe the angle although I never gave it much thought. I always have aligned the tool with the tailstock center. My biggest problem seems to be adding and removing shims to get it aligned. I never seem to have enough shims around. I need to increase my stock or go with the adjustable tool holder.
Mule
http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-300 ... B00004T7SW
I have heard of pinning something between the cutter and the work to observe the angle although I never gave it much thought. I always have aligned the tool with the tailstock center. My biggest problem seems to be adding and removing shims to get it aligned. I never seem to have enough shims around. I need to increase my stock or go with the adjustable tool holder.
Mule
-
- Posts: 3803
- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:21 pm
- Location: Vallejo California
Works better with a QC holder.
You got the idea.
Care must be taken when using a carbide cutter. To much pressure and it will chip-off the point.
Been doing that for some 35 years. Seldom use the tail-stock center but I do some times.
I think that best way to get dead center is to take a cut on the face of a bar until there is no dimple at all left.
You got the idea.
Care must be taken when using a carbide cutter. To much pressure and it will chip-off the point.
Been doing that for some 35 years. Seldom use the tail-stock center but I do some times.
I think that best way to get dead center is to take a cut on the face of a bar until there is no dimple at all left.
There are no problems, only solutions.
--------------
Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa
--------------
Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa