Well here it is, job completed and done so safely thanks to you all. You all were a tremendous help. Thanks again "sch" for giving me the idea of using the 4 x 4 between the two beams. Sometimes the obvious is right in front of us yet we can't see it. That's where you guys came in so handy. Here is a picture of the lifting sling set up I used and it went smooth as silk. Now I'm going to jump over to the welding forum and see about putting together a pan to set under it to catch oil and chips. I bought some 22 ga. unplated steel and some 1/8" x 1/2" x 1/2" angle. Thanks again everyone and like I said before, I'm sure I'll be back for more of your help as I get into this machine. I have a couple of books on order, so I'll start with them first. Larry
There she sets on my shop floor.
Harbor Freight Multipurpose Machine How is it crated?
Moderator: Harold_V
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- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:21 pm
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Please do not use the Z joist to lift anything, especially the lathe. The joist is designed to handle 5ft lbs per square foot (metal panel roof) so if you take half the distance from the joist on either side you could figure how much it is designed to carry. Now this is what it is designed to carry for dead and live load over the entire length. What you are doing is a point load, the joists are designed to handle 75 lbs per sf. Your loading 100 lbs is a load 133% above the design load. This successive overloading will eventually exceed the elastic capability of the steel and fail pulling the roof decking and one side of the joist will loose its attachment at the wall (or beam) and fall.
Use an engine hoist, rent one if you don’t have one. They can lift 2 tons much greater that your 3 in 1 equipment, safe and easy without risking damaging the shop structure.
Charles
Use an engine hoist, rent one if you don’t have one. They can lift 2 tons much greater that your 3 in 1 equipment, safe and easy without risking damaging the shop structure.
Charles
The best times were behind one of Al's engines
Thanks Charles and Jose, I'm not going to use that set up for any lifting.
I will buy me an engine hoist like Charles says. I sure don't want to damage my shop structure in any way.
Basically what we did was lift the one end off the trailer and left the other end on the trailer. Then let the one end down on the trailer ramp and then just slid it off the trailer. We lifted just enough to lift the crate edge over the lip of the trailer ramp and we were home free. My trailer is the landscaper type with the ramp for mowers. I have driven my mower up on it and it weights 700 lbs. I was to afraid to put too much weight on the joist. Between all the great help from you guys and looking at the joist, I was afraid to put too much weight on it. Thanks everyone, Larry
I will buy me an engine hoist like Charles says. I sure don't want to damage my shop structure in any way.
Basically what we did was lift the one end off the trailer and left the other end on the trailer. Then let the one end down on the trailer ramp and then just slid it off the trailer. We lifted just enough to lift the crate edge over the lip of the trailer ramp and we were home free. My trailer is the landscaper type with the ramp for mowers. I have driven my mower up on it and it weights 700 lbs. I was to afraid to put too much weight on the joist. Between all the great help from you guys and looking at the joist, I was afraid to put too much weight on it. Thanks everyone, Larry
Just another tip, keep 6 black iron 1/2 pips of 36" in length. I do like the Egyptians when moving my mill or lathe, use the prybar to lift up edge and slide one under, then start pushing and work another under and then it roles around anywhere I need when moving. It also allows me to get it really close to the trailer when I'm moving. Done it twice now. Just a note one of the engine hoist with removable legs it great. The take up less space in the shop.
Charles
Charles
The best times were behind one of Al's engines
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- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:21 pm
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