enco compound table?

[69camaro]

I purchased a Central Machinery 5980 mill/lathe combo. I am trying to set it up to slot guards for my knifemaking efforts. It seems at a glance, that installing an Enco compound table on top of the existing one (removing the tool post holder and vice) would fix a couple of issues. #1, the spindle is to far from the table and #2 the existing feeds are metric and not very fine.

I could then either clamp 123 blocks or a small vice to the table.

I could really use some advice from persons more knowledgeable than myself.

Thanks,

[Harold_V]

I'm not familiar with the machine, but from your description, sounds like it would work. Might help to post a couple pictures, one of the machine, one of the proposed table.

Welcome to the forum.

Harold

[69camaro]

central machinery 5980 image_1469.jpg (27.12 KiB) Viewed 6724 times

here is the machine. If I remove the lathe tool post and base, I need 6" of height to reach the bottom of the spindle when extended. By using a low profile x-y table at 4-5/8" in height, I would have an 1-3/8" to the bottom of the spindle. This should allow ample room for either a low profile vice or 123 blocks attached to the table.

Note, I have already removed the lathe chuck. Here is the table

or will this be better? only 3-1/2" high

[kermit]

I too have the HF model 5980. I have fitted mine using an angle vise, as the lathe already has x and y feeds to center your work piece for milling. Just get a vice to fit the cross slide with the correct height. Mine is a Smithy angle vice, which swivels 360 and zero to 90 up down...........Also I have fitted my 5980 to use a steady rest....if interested in what is involved please contact me at kgowe@comcast.net.

p.s. I have a smithy 1220 LDT set up in the shop, and use the 5980 in the garage.....seems the 5980 gets the most work out............kermit

[Harold_V]

The one thing I'd caution you about is working clearance between the part and spindle end. If you go from milling to drilling, you may find you don't have room for the chuck and drill. You may also find that if you're centered over your work (at proper location for a given feature) that you can't change tools because of limited clearance. It's not uncommon when operating a knee mill to drop or raise the knee when required. You won't have that option, so make sure that by adding the slide that you don't work yourself in to a corner. In general, I'd suggest it's not a good idea, but if you have a particular function in mind and know that your modification will be functional, go for it. Just don't lose site of the fact that you need distance under the spindle.

Harold

[kermit]

I agree with the above.....but you will probably have to do away with the drill chuck and get the proper size collets for your mill head. I believe you would need a MT2 collet for the mill and the drawbar to tighten it up. With my arrangement, using the angle vice, I can get the proper height for most any cut's by adjusting the mill head up or down, or using an extended length mill cutter as required by using just the cross slide vice provided with the lathe. You can purchase the collets for just about any size within the capabilities of your machine. For my 5980 I use the 1/4" or 3/8" size shank with over size mill cutters as required. I have a mill cutter kit that has 3/16" shank, with four flute mill cutters that ranges from 1/16" to 3/16", also a 3/8" shank kit that has cutters with ranges from 3/8" to 1/2", these can cut most any slot needed.........The world is full of adaptation, you just have to figure it out. Get an Enco, Grizzly Machine or Smithy catalog which will have all the accessories and options that may apply to your head stock,tail stock and mill head specifications, with the added bonus of being good value for the money..........These machines are a compromise at best. I have been working with my Smithy 1220 LTD which is a much larger machine with much more capability than my 5980 machine, but both machines have there limitations. The most important thing that I have found is your work piece must be held down tight, every axes that is not going to move must be clamped down tight, take small shallow cuts, and your cutters must be sharp.......kermit