Hi to all
The new 0-4-0 kit is available and soon we will have the Laser one piece frames too. Price for the kit $3500.00 Sale price for up until May 28 2017 with $150.00 plan set of 35 drawings. Normal price is $3694.00 plus plans. Shipping will range but in the $250.00 area. All parts in stock. Discount value is $344.00 or around 10% off. This set is a one buy special not to be sold in sections. 10 boxes of castings. Includes all section as show on the web site. This will come with all the heave cast Iron new castings. Boiler is available from Ridge Locomotive Works. Send check payment or use the web site to place the order. Contact me first as the site will not adjust the correct discount prices.
Laser cut Frames about a month out. Price on frame most likely be $250.00 plus shipping.
Steve Alley
Allen Models of Nevada,LLC
775-782-3800 or www.allenmodels.com
Allen Models sale price on 0-4-0 Locomotive
Moderators: gwrdriver, Harold_V
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Steve Alley
- Posts: 216
- Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2012 12:30 am
Re: Allen Models sale price on 0-4-0 Locomotive
Steve,
What kind of finishing work will be required for the laser-cut frames? I am interested in getting some. Thanks.
What kind of finishing work will be required for the laser-cut frames? I am interested in getting some. Thanks.
-Sam
Boilermaker, Pipefitter, former Railroader
"Preserving the Past and Ensuring Our Future"
Boilermaker, Pipefitter, former Railroader
"Preserving the Past and Ensuring Our Future"
-
Steve Alley
- Posts: 216
- Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2012 12:30 am
Re: Allen Models sale price on 0-4-0 Locomotive
We are still working on the frames and there will be finish work. IE machine of the journal openings and end, ends and all bolt holes. Just the outline will be cut out. Ether Laser cut or water jet is not as accurate as in finish product. We need to leave material to machine. So under .010 left to cut. Recommend Carbide end mill to finish up with. Stack both frames together. Then Machine both at the same time. There will be plans with instructions, were to start and reference from. All engines will be the same as reference points. Starting from where the center line of cylinders and working back to Main journal then to the other journals. Next is the valve gear placement. These are the important spots on the frame that need to be accurate. Next will be the cross member hole to make sure you end up with a squire frame. There most likely be two center lines on the frame. This is due to moving the frame for travel of milling machine. Working from reference points is the most important, as you go you should pick up other points to measure from and the finish of areas are done. But make sure the the frame is parallel to the table x travel. The best way to do this is to mount the frame to a plate that is square. This way it is easy to stand up the plate to do the top and bottom of frame holes and stay square with parallel and horizontal surfaces. The drawing will have all the measurement is not fractional. but detentions to the .0005. We will be working with a wiggly edge finder to obtain our datum points. Also the start up phase we will double checking before cutting to make sure of our center lines.
I have seen engine that the frame is not square nor is the journal area's are to correct die-mentions. Also the journal boxes get machine before the frame and mistakes were not holding the die-mentions and loose journals to the frame. If wrong the rods take the pounding and egg shape the bearing area. Most important is the axles are cut 90 degs correctly and mounted to the axle quarter correctly. This is the biggest mistake in the hobby. Spending the time to do this correctly and not thinking outside the box, As in doing any other way to save money and time is wasted.
Some day I will add to the web site info and picture of how or why we do it the way we do it. The build logs that I have see in the past doesn't show correct or how they did the work. The trick of the trades and the accurate way of doing things.
Also the chose of materials use. I did know anything about materials when I started and ask what did you us. Answers all over the place. I don't heat treat my parts. I just use material the can handle the job. Stainless steal is a good example. To may to chose from and not sure what to use. Mostly I use 316 and 304 , Never put to same alike material together that is the same.
I won't a site that will be the go to spot in the hobby to get correct information that use mostly in our hobby. Drill sizes for taping, conversion charts. Volume info. Metal Material use and hardness. Example for taping call for drill size #38 for 5-40 tap I always use the next size up #37. It taps easier and brake less taps. Get the same strength of holding also. Some size of taps are good for one hole. as in 0-80 in taping boiler pipe. Use one tap per hole.
Getting carry away here, hope you get the idea of what I am about and what this hobby needs to proceed in a cellphone world.
Steve Alley
I have seen engine that the frame is not square nor is the journal area's are to correct die-mentions. Also the journal boxes get machine before the frame and mistakes were not holding the die-mentions and loose journals to the frame. If wrong the rods take the pounding and egg shape the bearing area. Most important is the axles are cut 90 degs correctly and mounted to the axle quarter correctly. This is the biggest mistake in the hobby. Spending the time to do this correctly and not thinking outside the box, As in doing any other way to save money and time is wasted.
Some day I will add to the web site info and picture of how or why we do it the way we do it. The build logs that I have see in the past doesn't show correct or how they did the work. The trick of the trades and the accurate way of doing things.
Also the chose of materials use. I did know anything about materials when I started and ask what did you us. Answers all over the place. I don't heat treat my parts. I just use material the can handle the job. Stainless steal is a good example. To may to chose from and not sure what to use. Mostly I use 316 and 304 , Never put to same alike material together that is the same.
I won't a site that will be the go to spot in the hobby to get correct information that use mostly in our hobby. Drill sizes for taping, conversion charts. Volume info. Metal Material use and hardness. Example for taping call for drill size #38 for 5-40 tap I always use the next size up #37. It taps easier and brake less taps. Get the same strength of holding also. Some size of taps are good for one hole. as in 0-80 in taping boiler pipe. Use one tap per hole.
Getting carry away here, hope you get the idea of what I am about and what this hobby needs to proceed in a cellphone world.
Steve Alley