Hi All,
Currently I'm building a 2.5 inch scale ridding car and have the drawings and trucks to build a 2.5 inch scale D&RGW long caboose as an interduction for myself into the hobby. I dont have the money or time to build a steam engine and have plenty to run at my club so I figure do the next best thing, build a Goose! Im a real big NG fan and as I said Buying Brunoz K-36 on DLS doesnt seem very doable so build something a little bit more low cost. Does anyone have and ideas or pictures for a Galooping Goose in 7.5 inch gauge?
Thanks, Charlie
A Galooping Goose
Moderator: Harold_V
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SoCalLiveSteamer#613
- Posts: 212
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- Location: Torrance Ca
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G,day Charlie....I know it's not a Goose or of no use to you, but here is a photo of the start to my railmotor.
7.25 inch gauge and will be electric powered. Don't ask about plans as I design and build from whats in my mind ( so thats what the rattling din is
).
7.25 inch gauge and will be electric powered. Don't ask about plans as I design and build from whats in my mind ( so thats what the rattling din is
).Have a good one....John.
"MALCOLM MOORE LOCO & THE 100 FOOT RAILWAY" on Facebook.
"MALCOLM MOORE LOCO & THE 100 FOOT RAILWAY" on Facebook.
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SoCalLiveSteamer#613
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- Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2009 5:31 pm
- Location: Torrance Ca
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Basically I will be using the same system that is used in my other little critter.
http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/vie ... hp?t=82436
Although it uses 300 watt motors I had a bit of luck and picked up six 200 watt motors on EBay the other week for $42aus. This one will be ride on, not designed so much for hauling passengers as something for the grand kids to drive.
http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/vie ... hp?t=82436
Although it uses 300 watt motors I had a bit of luck and picked up six 200 watt motors on EBay the other week for $42aus. This one will be ride on, not designed so much for hauling passengers as something for the grand kids to drive.
Have a good one....John.
"MALCOLM MOORE LOCO & THE 100 FOOT RAILWAY" on Facebook.
"MALCOLM MOORE LOCO & THE 100 FOOT RAILWAY" on Facebook.
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Russ Hanscom
- Posts: 1955
- Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:10 pm
- Location: Farmington, NM
Hello Charlie,
the first question is, which Goose you want to build.
Their is a scale model model of #2 on the track (built by Dennis Weaver), and some of #6 from different builder.
Over here in Germany, their is a 3 truck Goose (3, 4 or 5) under construction, but for 5" gauge.
For the Goose under construction I supplied some informations to the builder.
First, I loaned him a 1/4" scale model for some months to measure and looking for details. Next, I supplied him some drawings from the Maxwell collection, which sadly actual is not available. Also, their are some drawings in an old Narrow Gauge Gazette als well in the book "Silver San Juan".
For #2, you can buy a drawing from the Colorado Railroad Museum. A preview of this drawing, which is 16" by 24" in original can bee seen under https://shop.coloradorailroadmuseum.org ... s/5496.jpg
The Colorado Rail Annual #9 has a good report about the story of the Geeses including a drawing of #2. This is still available as book from the Galloping Goose Historcial Society in Dolores http://www.gallopinggoose5.com/pages/pricelist.html. The society has #5 rebuild and it runs a couple of times on the Colorado Narrow Gauge lines.
Goose #3 has found a new home at Knotts Berry Farm, where it works on the Calico Railroad throughout the park: http://www.knotts.com/public/park/rides ... /index.cfm
If you want something smaller, Goose #1 might be also interesting. This motor-car is available in 1/4" from Bachmann (On30) and will give all the needed information. Because the prototype was scrapped short time, after #2 was constructed, no drawings are existing, only some old photos.
Some years ago (1999/2000) a replica was build in Ridgway http://www.ridgwayrailroadmuseum.org/motor1.html. On the website, nearly all available photos can be found.
At Ridgway, the museum is also working on Goose #4, which sat in a park in Telluride since the RGS was shut down. Here are some good photos, how a Goose is constructed:
http://www.ridgwayrailroadmuseum.org/Goose4.html
Greetings from Germany
Hubert The Goose
the first question is, which Goose you want to build.
Their is a scale model model of #2 on the track (built by Dennis Weaver), and some of #6 from different builder.
Over here in Germany, their is a 3 truck Goose (3, 4 or 5) under construction, but for 5" gauge.
For the Goose under construction I supplied some informations to the builder.
First, I loaned him a 1/4" scale model for some months to measure and looking for details. Next, I supplied him some drawings from the Maxwell collection, which sadly actual is not available. Also, their are some drawings in an old Narrow Gauge Gazette als well in the book "Silver San Juan".
For #2, you can buy a drawing from the Colorado Railroad Museum. A preview of this drawing, which is 16" by 24" in original can bee seen under https://shop.coloradorailroadmuseum.org ... s/5496.jpg
The Colorado Rail Annual #9 has a good report about the story of the Geeses including a drawing of #2. This is still available as book from the Galloping Goose Historcial Society in Dolores http://www.gallopinggoose5.com/pages/pricelist.html. The society has #5 rebuild and it runs a couple of times on the Colorado Narrow Gauge lines.
Goose #3 has found a new home at Knotts Berry Farm, where it works on the Calico Railroad throughout the park: http://www.knotts.com/public/park/rides ... /index.cfm
If you want something smaller, Goose #1 might be also interesting. This motor-car is available in 1/4" from Bachmann (On30) and will give all the needed information. Because the prototype was scrapped short time, after #2 was constructed, no drawings are existing, only some old photos.
Some years ago (1999/2000) a replica was build in Ridgway http://www.ridgwayrailroadmuseum.org/motor1.html. On the website, nearly all available photos can be found.
At Ridgway, the museum is also working on Goose #4, which sat in a park in Telluride since the RGS was shut down. Here are some good photos, how a Goose is constructed:
http://www.ridgwayrailroadmuseum.org/Goose4.html
Greetings from Germany
Hubert The Goose
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SoCalLiveSteamer#613
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- Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2009 5:31 pm
- Location: Torrance Ca
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Hi,
der Builder here in Germany used to small motors attached direct to the axles of the second truck, which is also the powered-truck by the prototype.
Perhaps, one motor would be enough, because you have to connect the second axle with the chain. On the prototype, the original straight six powered the trucks through the transmission and over the drivestaft to the differential, which was mounted on the first axle of the second truck. And the second axle of this truck was connected through the chain on the outside of the truck.
Here is a photo, I got from H.P. Karius (the builder over here) of this 5" gauge truck:
der Builder here in Germany used to small motors attached direct to the axles of the second truck, which is also the powered-truck by the prototype.
Perhaps, one motor would be enough, because you have to connect the second axle with the chain. On the prototype, the original straight six powered the trucks through the transmission and over the drivestaft to the differential, which was mounted on the first axle of the second truck. And the second axle of this truck was connected through the chain on the outside of the truck.
Here is a photo, I got from H.P. Karius (the builder over here) of this 5" gauge truck:
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makinsmoke
- Posts: 2265
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:56 pm
- Location: Texas Hill Country
A galloping goose
Charlie,
I built my #4 using a 5 hp Kohler gas engine driving an Eaton hydraulic trans. Chain drive down from the trans shaft to an axle supported by a pillow block on one end and attaching to a Tol-O Matic gearbox on the first axle of the middle truck. external chain drive off the first axle to the second axle just like the prototype.
Build the front portion as a separate unit from the rear box body, and attach with am articulation joint over the middle truck, again as in prototype. Make them easily detachable and it will save you untold hours of grief. These things are over ten feet long, so won't fit into a pickup bed in one piece.
Depending on the "motorman", one can sit inside the box, just make sure the weight is more towards the front because you want adequate weight over the middle (power) truck.
Brian
I built my #4 using a 5 hp Kohler gas engine driving an Eaton hydraulic trans. Chain drive down from the trans shaft to an axle supported by a pillow block on one end and attaching to a Tol-O Matic gearbox on the first axle of the middle truck. external chain drive off the first axle to the second axle just like the prototype.
Build the front portion as a separate unit from the rear box body, and attach with am articulation joint over the middle truck, again as in prototype. Make them easily detachable and it will save you untold hours of grief. These things are over ten feet long, so won't fit into a pickup bed in one piece.
Depending on the "motorman", one can sit inside the box, just make sure the weight is more towards the front because you want adequate weight over the middle (power) truck.
Brian
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SoCalLiveSteamer#613
- Posts: 212
- Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2009 5:31 pm
- Location: Torrance Ca
- Contact:
Thankyou all for the info. Righ now and being 13, I'm trying to find something fun and affortable I like and will enjoy in the hobby. I'm more of a steam guy but buying Brunos K-36 on DLS isn't much of an option now. Im planning on building a fleet of 3.5 or 2.5 inch scale D&RG cars and this goose evenyually unless I lean towards buying a 3/4 or 1 inch scale steamer. the only problem with that though, is that my club is all 7.5 so I would have to go to LALS to run the smaller stuff. It all rest in the price though haha
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steamin10
- Posts: 6712
- Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2003 11:52 pm
- Location: NW Indiana. Close to Lake Michigan S. tip
Goose
SC613: I can offer some advice to get you on the rails. Network with some of your buds and find a riding mover with the gearshift reverser, or the 3 speed trans. They are popular on the lower grades of rider movers. Save every bit of chain and wheel drive parts you can. Find a runable or repairable pancake vertical briggs motor, 3-5 Hp.
The Geese were the make-do answer to still making money in a dying market. So in that spirit, Free lance the thing. An Early model had a Pierce-Arrow body. It hauled a few passengers and had a freight box behind to handle your lawnmower mechanicals. So why not a rendition of a model "A"? Or maybe a C cab TT truck? The Freight box could be adjusted for size ( plywood box) to sit the pilot on black or silver vinyl over foam . Hand controls and a brake pedal of the foot pegs, pretty much does it. Maybe one of those Electric Tot jeeps, could be the start of the body. At any rate, take the idea, and run with the "What If" and sketch it out. A coupla milk crates and some chalk on sidewalk, can get you some real dimensions to work with, before you set the frame length.
Finally, I built just such a frame and drive with a Comet clutch to the gearbox, to a single unsprung rear axle driven by a chain. Only changed the drive sprocket on that axle and welded up 5/16 x 2" bar stock for all the frame and cross members. I used 3.25 wheels for the drive, and 2" wheels for the front. The front were a bushed axle truck without sideframes. The rear had slotted axle boxes that had stepped purches and bolt on keepers below, that were bent into a long truss along the frame and made the look. Other than the belt drive for the comet clutch, the only problem I had was stalling of the engine at idle. That was handled by adding a 5 lb barbel weight to the motor shaft to give it more flywheel action, and carry the motor to the next stroke. It would idle with a soft Putt, very well, when dialed in. Leave the complete bottom of the engine-freight box open, except for a heavy tin gaurd over the flywheel area, to keep fingers safe. I never had any trouble with cooling. Make sure you put some slots into the engine mounts to adjust the belt length for engagement.
Basically, thats how I built mine.
I wish you good speed, and a creative spirit. Focus on the task, and have fun.
The Geese were the make-do answer to still making money in a dying market. So in that spirit, Free lance the thing. An Early model had a Pierce-Arrow body. It hauled a few passengers and had a freight box behind to handle your lawnmower mechanicals. So why not a rendition of a model "A"? Or maybe a C cab TT truck? The Freight box could be adjusted for size ( plywood box) to sit the pilot on black or silver vinyl over foam . Hand controls and a brake pedal of the foot pegs, pretty much does it. Maybe one of those Electric Tot jeeps, could be the start of the body. At any rate, take the idea, and run with the "What If" and sketch it out. A coupla milk crates and some chalk on sidewalk, can get you some real dimensions to work with, before you set the frame length.
Finally, I built just such a frame and drive with a Comet clutch to the gearbox, to a single unsprung rear axle driven by a chain. Only changed the drive sprocket on that axle and welded up 5/16 x 2" bar stock for all the frame and cross members. I used 3.25 wheels for the drive, and 2" wheels for the front. The front were a bushed axle truck without sideframes. The rear had slotted axle boxes that had stepped purches and bolt on keepers below, that were bent into a long truss along the frame and made the look. Other than the belt drive for the comet clutch, the only problem I had was stalling of the engine at idle. That was handled by adding a 5 lb barbel weight to the motor shaft to give it more flywheel action, and carry the motor to the next stroke. It would idle with a soft Putt, very well, when dialed in. Leave the complete bottom of the engine-freight box open, except for a heavy tin gaurd over the flywheel area, to keep fingers safe. I never had any trouble with cooling. Make sure you put some slots into the engine mounts to adjust the belt length for engagement.
Basically, thats how I built mine.
I wish you good speed, and a creative spirit. Focus on the task, and have fun.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.