Here is a technique my father showed me many years ago to get thin parts flat on the surface grinder with the use of paper towels. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VT84xVLY8Ug
I have used thin strips of rubber in the past but I like paper towels better. What are some of the methods you guys use?
Grinding thin plates flat using paper towels
Re: Grinding thin plates flat using paper towels
Thanks Viperspit. Never heard of this interesting technique.
Too bad I don't have a variable mag chuck or coolant or a good machine. Failing all that, it will still be worth a try.
--earlgo
Too bad I don't have a variable mag chuck or coolant or a good machine. Failing all that, it will still be worth a try.
--earlgo
Before you do anything, you must do something else first. - Washington's principle.
Re: Grinding thin plates flat using paper towels
Interesting , learned something again .
Unfortunately I'm in the same camp as earlglo with a well used Grinder no coolant and a half phase diode for a magnet controller .
Unfortunately I'm in the same camp as earlglo with a well used Grinder no coolant and a half phase diode for a magnet controller .
Re: Grinding thin plates flat using paper towels
Interesting trick, I'll have to remember that. I do have the paper towels just no surface grinder or magnetic chuck or I'd try this out. 
Re: Grinding thin plates flat using paper towels
LOL, that's funny Pete, I was thinking the same thing!
Vision is not seeing things as they are, but as they will be.
Re: Grinding thin plates flat using paper towels
One thing to consider, for those who have a grinder and no experience in its use.
Pieces that are not flat are in that condition for a reason. The reason is generally internal stress, which is in virtually all material. In order for an item to be taken to a truly flat condition, the part must be partially ground on one face, then flipped, for a roughly equal amount of stock to be removed from the opposite face. The part is then flipped once again, with a light cut taken on the original face, then flipped again, for an equal pass. This process is repeated until the part is taken to size.
Yeah, it's slow, but keeping the stresses in balance is important, as each pass alters flatness.
I have not tried the paper towel trick. It was common practice for those of us who worked in precision grinding to use shims to support the part when attempting to remove a bowed condition. The shims were coupled with the above mentioned procedure, and proved to be quite good. I expect that the use of a paper towel would lend to similar results (assuming it was used each time the part was flipped). A nice tip, for which I thank the OP.
Harold
Pieces that are not flat are in that condition for a reason. The reason is generally internal stress, which is in virtually all material. In order for an item to be taken to a truly flat condition, the part must be partially ground on one face, then flipped, for a roughly equal amount of stock to be removed from the opposite face. The part is then flipped once again, with a light cut taken on the original face, then flipped again, for an equal pass. This process is repeated until the part is taken to size.
Yeah, it's slow, but keeping the stresses in balance is important, as each pass alters flatness.
I have not tried the paper towel trick. It was common practice for those of us who worked in precision grinding to use shims to support the part when attempting to remove a bowed condition. The shims were coupled with the above mentioned procedure, and proved to be quite good. I expect that the use of a paper towel would lend to similar results (assuming it was used each time the part was flipped). A nice tip, for which I thank the OP.
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.